Lexus/Toyota V8 oil weights?

[EyesofThunder]

What is the OEM recommended oil weights for the Lex/Toy V8's around the world?

Is it the same?

In the US most all from 2006-up are 0W20 or 5W20. Before that was 5W30. But say in Australia, or Europe, or ? Is it the same oil weight recommendation?

I have a 1UZ-FE in my 98 GS400 and just switched to 5W20 (the internet has something that looks official that Lexus "backspec'd" the oil weights to 5W20 if not 0W20. But no one knows the validity of it and my friend at Lexus cannot confirm it, nor find anything that recommends other than the OEM 5W20 recommendation originally released.

Just wondering!

 

[fastegg]

Oil weight

For '98 LS400 VVTi the owners manual and workshop manual both specify 5W-30

 

[fastegg]

Oil weight

And just on that subject... I would like to use 0W-30 but no one sells it.
I use Calibre 5W-30 full syn from Super Cheap Auto for 2 reasons.
1: It's the cheapest full synthetic on the market and has the same API-SM spec as Mobil One or any of the other 'top brands'
SM is the current spec for engine oil so it's as good as any oil thats twice the price.
2: It's the only oil that comes in 5.5 litre containers and my motor ('98 1UZ VVTi) takes about 5.4 litres per oil change (with filter)

*** I also use Amsoil Ea or Purolator Pure One filters as they do a much better job than Ryco or generic filters. Even after 15,000km, the oil looks very clean and is only very slightly discoloured.

 

[BlackUZZ31]

the oil looking clean after lots of km is because it probably has a cheap (shit) additives package that is not cleaning as much compared to a quality semi-syn for the same price!

 

[EyesofThunder]

My GS400 has pretty clear oil after 10k miles with Mobil 1 0W30, and a little darker with Quaker State 5W30 synthetic at 10k miles. I am running 5W20 petroleum oil now and again, slightly darker at 5k than the others ever got.

Good ring seal is key to clear oil. If your rings leak or aren't sealed well then you often see darker oil earlier than engines with a good solid ring seal.

Other factors play in, but rings are the biggie.

 

[ash]

Just a odd post on this..
Grinding of crank to sbc small journal..which is 2.00inches gave any, many more options for oil clearances.
This allowed many difference oil pressures and oil types to be considered .

 

[EyesofThunder]

The clearances are only part of it from what I have dug up. Surface polish has a lot to do too. It isn't just tight, that probably has less to do with it than we would have expected. Pump volume too, a low volume pump will have a harder time with the higher flow rate of the thinner oil, so if the engine is already tired, the thinner oil might not be a good thing when it is really hot, especially in a hard race condition. So for me, summer I will likely run the 0W30 oil but in cooler months 0W20. All depends on how I see the oil temps (I need to get a gauge installed)

A crank or block that isn't as true or stiff can't get away with as much as one that is super stiff/rigid. From what I see the cross bolted design like the Gen III/IV/V GM Small Block and the Lexus xUZ-FE design (and probably the UR's) lends itself more to the thinner oil and tighter tolerances.

Just a odd post on this..
Grinding of crank to sbc small journal..which is 2.00inches gave any, many more options for oil clearances.
This allowed many difference oil pressures and oil types to be considered .

 

[fastegg]

Oil

So.. you recon my oils clean just because i use cheap oil ? ... Calibre oil is made to API-SM spec which is the same spec as Mobil One or any other 'top' brands.... are you surgesting their SM spec is BS ?.....
The reason your oil goes 'black' is soot, soot that if it is not filtered out stays in the oil discolouring it. If you use filters that can filter out soot the oil stays clean... its got nothing to do with detergents. Besides, why don't you try an Amsoil or Pure One filter and see what your oil looks like. The proof is in the pudding....

 

[EyesofThunder]

I stand behind the darker the oil the more there is a ring problem with the engine. Synthetic will do better (most synthetics stay clear much longer) because the film strength is much much stronger. As the oil burns at the rings (harder driving really heats up rings a lot), the oil burns or "cokes" there and gets flushed into the oil pan, some of which is filter out by the filter. This is where a bypass filter really helps, it can filter down in the 2 micron range and take more of the coke in the oil out and it will actually clear back up. Put black and clear oil under a microscope and take a look.

Some swear by the cheapest oil and filter they can get and still have an engine last a long life, some insist on the most expensive they can get.

If you notice a small block chevy often has dark oil in no time and unless the engine is new, they all are like that. Maybe if you built the engine yourself you probably can get a better ring seal, but the factory was sloppy and didn't give a rats behind (if they gave rats behinds with the cars it would cost more, the bean counters put the kabosh on rats behinds with the cars...) about quality. The block machining was all over the place. Cam specs were crazy different from engine to engine because the lifter bores were in a different place on every engine down the production line.

Look at a 1UZ-FE, Lexus/Toyota were very anal about quality. You got 8 rats behinds, 1 per cyl. So it was spot on and hence even like my engine at 175k miles, doesn't burn a drop of oil and the oil stays almost clear for 10k miles.

 

[fastegg]

SM vs SM

Hey EyesofThunder...I use Calibre 5W-30 full syn API-SM 5.5 litre @$46
... Do you reckon it would be as good a quality as Mobil One API-SM, 5 litre @ $96 ? Like Mobil One is more than twice the price but has the same SM spec.
... Is there any difference in quality ?

 

[EyesofThunder]

Don't have any idea, but SM spec is still SM spec. There is at least a min std. There are plenty of other factors (NOACK % loss, fire point, freeze point, etc). The higher the fire point and flash point, the less coke created, as it will handle the high ring temps better. It is NOT uncommon for rings to sail into the 400 degree C range for brief periods of high abuse (WOT passing, drag race, etc), so having an oil capable of high temps I personally feel is important. See if you can find the specs on it. Mobil 1 has some specs, Amsoil much better about specs. I have a spreadsheet with a lot in it, but all US oils, never had a line to know what to look for outside the US.

Is Mobil 1 the best? No, good, yes, but best, no, far from it. Look for a PAO oil, but it isn't on the bottle. They never want that info posted, they always want you in the dark. Group III's are simply Group II (dino oil) refined more. And called "synthetic", many Mobil 1 oils are just that. PAO (Group IV oils) are the real deal. But are often dilluted with non synthetic additives (Group V are synthetic additives).

You usually pay more for real group IV PAO oils.

I feel oil that is in there should be appropriate to how the car is driven, but better can't hurt, except the pocket book..

Hey EyesofThunder...I use Calibre 5W-30 full syn API-SM 5.5 litre @$46
... Do you reckon it would be as good a quality as Mobil One API-SM, 5 litre @ $96 ? Like Mobil One is more than twice the price but has the same SM spec.
... Is there any difference in quality ?