How do you prep your 1UZ to hold High boost?

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Philly#1 Lex

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Over the next couple of months I am prepping my 1UZ in my SC4 to get some sort of Forced induction. I am really leaning towards Twin screw whipple supercharger running about 18-20psi of boost. Whats the best way to hold this type of power. Looking for 450-500 rwhp on my SC4. Yes I know its expensive, but the cost of swapping a properly tuned 1 or 2jz come out to similar cost. What I have in mind is:

Ross forged pistons 8.5:1
Either Aussie Argo rods or lextreme rods or even stock rods if they can hold.
Upgraded Fuel rail, 550cc supra turbo injectors, walboro pump
MLS Head Gasket
Kelford Custom Grind Cams
ARP Head studs, rods bolts, etc,
JBrady headers with straight dual 3 inch exhaust( Maybe high flow cats)
Head cleaned up as well.
Adaptronic ECU
R154 and beefy clutch
LSD

I want the 1uz to rev to about 7500-8000rpms. If there is anything else I should be looking at, or reccomendations for the build are welcome. Thanks
 
anti firction and heat reflecting coatings. and maybe a water injection system. thats about all i can think of.
 
anti firction and heat reflecting coatings. and maybe a water injection system. thats about all i can think of.

Water injection is easy to find, but I haven't heard about the anti friction and heat coating.
Please tell me/us a little bit more. Benefits, costs and where to buy and where to put that coating exactly?
Is is speacial coating which cannot be done by myselft?
 
The water injection is a must.

No need to rev it past 6,000rpm and use the low end grunt of the Whipple to replace the revs. This will make it easier to drive and give you the same if not better performance.

The stock rods won't do what you want.

Richwood Technologies can sort all the supercharging bits for you.
 
Ross forged pistons 8.5:1
Upgraded Fuel rail, 550cc supra turbo injectors
I would suggest 9.0:1 compression. Secondly which supra injectors came in 550 cc/min? If Supra MKIV they are side feed and would not work. Possible MKIII injectors but they are low impendence. I would suggest you use Mazda Rx7 550 cc high impedance. They are plug and play right into the stock fuel rails. Lastly, if you are going to use upgraded fuel rails like the Wolfkatz Engineering Fuel Rails, then you can just use domestic injectors.
LexusKitSmall.jpg
 
I beg to differ Rod....450-500rwhp should be easy on the stock rods. I agree they won't take 7500-8000rpm for long but if i can make 430rwhp on totally stock internals with 13psi then his combo will do 500rwkw easy with forgies, cams and 18psi. The stock rods will take alot more grunt than the stock pistons. All of course assuming we are talking non VVT rods.

7000rpm should be enough of a rev limit for those hp levels and i wouldn't take stock rods past this anyway.

With custom rods then the sky's the limit.
 
Justen,

You're quite likely correct but if you look at the investment in parts in that engine the additional cost of bulletproof rods is minor.

If it breaks a rod he will destroy perhaps $10,000 worth of engine where if you do the same you blow $1,200.

Looking at the costs involved the rods represent cheap insurance plus the comfort of Knowing it will hold together.

Do you sometimes wonder why your motor is still running given what your getting out of it and the hiding it takes. A true testament to the strength of the 1UZ but sometimes you must think "wow it's still holding together".
 
anti-friction coatings are used on the piston skirts, all bearings, and the wrist pins. Anti-heat coatings are used on the tops of the pistons, the combustion chambers, intake and exhaust ports, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, turbos(in theory), and turbo lines(also in theory). There are also oil shedding coatings that can be used on the bottom side of the pistons, on the rods, crankshaft.

anti friction coatings are good for, well, reducing friction. its pretty self explanitory.

heat-reflecting coatings keep heat inside or away from whatever they are coated on. for example, if you put a heat-reflecting coating on the exhaust manifold(as is common for this coating), you can keep your engine bay cooler. it also(apperently, i havent tested it) makes the exhaust move faster through the system. if you coat the inside of the exhaust ports, it keeps unwanted heat away from the intake ports, which is obviously good. if its put on the outside and inside of the intake, it also keeps the intake cooler. if you decide to put this coating on the pistons, combustion chambers, intake manifold, intake and exhaust ports, it means that the air coming into the cylinder isnt preheated by hot ports and hot combustion surfaces. because the heat is reflected into the exhaust gasses. this will help keep detonation away allowing you to run higher compression, more timing, and more boost. though i dont know how much you can add.

oil shedding coatings are also self explanitory. they just make the oil slide off what ever you put it on. which means HP benefits because motor oil is very heavy. you might also be able to use this coating in oil galleries, though i dont see how you could get it in there.

all of these coatings should increase engine life and performance.

there are several companies that do performance coatings. you just have to do some research on the net. i found one, but that was a while ago, and i forgot the name. i think it was performance coatings.... but im not really sure.
 
Over the next couple of months I am prepping my 1UZ in my SC4 to get some sort of Forced induction. I am really leaning towards Twin screw whipple supercharger running about 18-20psi of boost. Whats the best way to hold this type of power. Looking for 450-500 rwhp on my SC4. Yes I know its expensive, but the cost of swapping a properly tuned 1 or 2jz come out to similar cost. What I have in mind is:

Ross forged pistons 8.5:1
Either Aussie Argo rods or lextreme rods or even stock rods if they can hold.
Upgraded Fuel rail, 550cc supra turbo injectors, walboro pump
MLS Head Gasket
Kelford Custom Grind Cams
ARP Head studs, rods bolts, etc,
JBrady headers with straight dual 3 inch exhaust( Maybe high flow cats)
Head cleaned up as well.
Adaptronic ECU
R154 and beefy clutch
LSD

I want the 1uz to rev to about 7500-8000rpms. If there is anything else I should be looking at, or reccomendations for the build are welcome. Thanks

hey mate i noticed no post 4 a long time, how you end up going with this project
 


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