COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO...?

[basslover911]

Hey guys,

does anyone have instructions for it? (I searched and couldn't find anything with pictures... or anything that would help)...

Tips for it? Can I use any engine coolant or does it HAVE TO BE Toyota coolant?

Thanks!

(PS I just got the car today for $1800 Ill post pictures tomorrow)

 

[Ursus]

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/coolant.html everything should be there..

 

[basslover911]

Awesome thanks just what I was looking for!

Now, why is toyota coolant better? (it seems much more expensive)...

Anyone here use any other coolant with success?

 

[cribbj]

Another suggestion - only use enough coolant for your climate to prevent freezing & boil over. The traditional 50/50 mix advocated for years will not carry away as much heat from your motor as a 100% water solution.

You really shouldn't run a 100% water solution because it's going to boil or freeze much easier, so just run the minimum amount of antifreeze necessary to avoid both those conditions for your climate. Also consider using a bottle of Water Wetter or another product which will relax the surface tension of distilled water. This helps the water to "contact" the metal surfaces in the motor better.

A water pump lubricant, and/or general corrosion inhibitor additive wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Finally, don't use any other type of water other than distilled. "Purefied" is not good enough, and tap water definitely isn't good enough. The reason for this is corrosion. The aluminum in these engines will always act as a sacrificial anode when in contact with a metal which is less active (such as cast iron). So when there is a solution in contact with the aluminum, like tap water with minerals having very active ions, it hastens the sacrificial process.

 

[basslover911]

Awesome thanks!

I did it yesterday and it took a good 7-8 flushes before all that came out was water.

Notes;
- I only opened the radiator valve, as the other ones were hard to reach. Still I grabed a hose, stuck it in the water inlet, and blew air through it. This forced all the water out of the engine block out and made life A LOT eeasier than having to open and close the engine valves. Again, it took a little longer but much easier.

Thanks crew! Next thing to takle, getting new interior door panels for cheap (any one know of any place? like $100 for both or something like that?)

 

[jibbby]

I always thought coolant to be rust and corrosion resistant as well as causing anti freeze and anti boil points? I know about distilled water in batteries, but radiators too? That's news to me... 50/50 mix is what I have always done...

 

[cribbj]

Heat Transfer 101

With the growing popularity of aluminum block motors, using only distilled water in the cooling system has been recommended to retard the corrosion. It's in all Toyota's FSM's and I suspect anyone else's who manufacture aluminum block engines. It's just one of the little gotcha's you run into with aluminum.

As far as the 50/50 mix being the "best", that's a common misconception that nearly everyone has had. Prestone ran commercials for decades that convinced everyone and their dog that the 50/50 mix is the "best protection you can get" Well everybody wants the "best protection" don't they? What they don't say is that the best heat transfer fluid on the planet (available to mere mortals like us) is pure water, and anything you add to dilute pure water will reduce the capacity of the cooling system to transfer heat from your motor to your radiator.

I posted the simplified heat transfer equation, and a typical example to the Supra community a few years back, and it might be useful to our membership, so I've reposted it here: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9081

 

[jibbby]

So alluminum has more corrosive properties in it then cast iron?...I Didn't know that... Makes sense though.... Maybe they should design a stainless steel engine block as that would be corrosion resistant by nature.....

 

[cribbj]

Not exactly corrosive properties - that implies that the aluminum is a corrosive agent, which it's not, at least not like caustic soda, etc.

Corrosion is a chemical reaction, and for it to occur, you have to have an anode (the aluminum), a cathode (the cast iron or steel), and an electrolyte (environment) plus a conductive path.

When all these conditions are right, the anode will start sacrificing itself to the cathode, and eventually it'll just disappear.

To retard or reduce this reaction, you have to either:

1) Eliminate the conductive path (often done with pipelines)

2) Introduce another material which is more anodic (less noble) than the aluminum, ie a sacrificial anode (often done with large offshore platforms, tanks, etc.) Large stationary engines with mixed metallurgy often have a "corrosion cartridge" mounted in the cooling system, which is simply a spin-on filter looking thingie that actually has a sacrificial anode like zinc or magnesium inside it. (see photo below of one of these that we have on a 1200 HP Komatsu diesel over here)

3) Eliminate the electrolyte (the mineral laden tap water, and substitute pure distilled water, with corrosion inhibitors)

I'm no corrosion specialist, but I know this is fundamentally what happens, and these are the basic engineering steps we can take to reduce it.

 

[jibbby]

Corrosion is a chemical reaction that is correct...

Being a liscense contractor myself.. I know in plumbing when you connect copper piping directly to galvanized piping a chemical reaction occures which creates corrosion at an extremely high rate ......A neutral plumbing union must be used when attempting to connect copper piping directly to galvanized piping...This is common as most older homes were built with galvanised piping and then when electing to remodel copper plumbing piping is commonly used....Not sure exactly what metals are used other then the seperation of two materials in the plumbing union to neutralize that corrosive effect and lime buildup...There are several different types of unions... I always thought coolant would be the (union of plumbing) when water makes contact with engine metals over long periods of time to prevent corrosion.. Is this not the case? So coolant and anti freeze don't have any non corrosive properties in it?


On a side note -

As you know the presence of salt also aids in metal rust and corrosion...That is why you should always be reluctant to buy a house or car that is located near the beach or salty ocean...The house will need constant and continuous maintenance and repairs..You will be enjoying the ocean view and sunsets daily while occasionally wondering if that suprise Sunami will ever hit..All the while your house will be detoriorating beneathe you and or you will be hearing constant banging and hammering as the contractors work away beneathe you.... Cars the same, you will find rust and corrosion everywhere... A little consumer tip for all....