Another 1UZ Supra

[elhsupra]

Here is finally some pics I promised. Its still not finished yet, but getting closer. These pics are of the test fit. Its not exactly the final engine placement, but pretty close.

The "other car" is my wife's.
I have to say thanks to Peewee, Kdog, Sideshow, Lextreme, V8Supra, Eleve_Niveau and several others on this group for your help.

 

[Peewee]

w00t

Nice work Eric, its been a while coming

 

[elhsupra]

Thanks alot

 

[Lextreme II]

Finally.... Gotta give us more.....

 

[elhsupra]

Update

After months of waiting the car is back with a dead battery. Replaced the battery, fired right up. Test drove it around and came back just in time to see the new headers burning a hole in my power steering line. sh#@t! Also found my fitting for the oil pressure sender was not tight enough as it was weeping a little oil. d*@mn! Guess I still have a little more work to go.

 

[Peewee]

Slowly getting there dude

All in good time.

 

[MNDRIVER]

nice nice i love the V8 in a supra my dreams are the same as what you just did. a crazy engine swap idear for a supra

 

[elhsupra]

Update

Tightened the oil sender and replaced the power steering line. Everything looks good but I have a new problem. Now it won't start. Tried new and old plugs, new and old cap/rotor. Tried plug wire near the chassis to look for arc, its good. Tried inline plug light between plug and wire, got spark. Tried new and old fuel pump. Fuel flowing to the rail, pulse damper screw moves and if I loose bolt I get sprayed by fuel . Tried 9volt batt to injectors to check if they are stuck, all click open/closed. Tried jump starting. Starter turns but engine doesn't fire. Replaced grounding wires, #3 of 4ga wires grounding engine to chassis. #1 of 1ga grounding battery to chassis.
What I haven't tried yet:
Confirm fuel pressure, need to get gauge.
Taking any ideas?

Interesting note, plugs looked wet. Maybe I flooded it or fuel pressure is to high?

 

[Peewee]

Plugs is normally the cause of sudden not starting, but you said you tried new ones.

Everytime mine didn't start I chucked new plugs in an she fired straight away.

I ended up shelving my new iridiums, and just using copper ones until she was running right.

Pull all 8 plugs, earth them, and test every one for spark.
Unplug the fuel pump relay/fuse so you don't waste fuel doing this.
If you have spark on all 8, give them a quick clean with carby cleaner.
If they are just copper ones, clean them with sandpaper or a sand blaster.
If they are platinums/iridiums, just use a rag.

 

[elhsupra]

Ok I have tested the ignition system - Good. Tested Fuel pressure - Good. Fuel press. regulator -Good.
If the fuel rail is pressurized, then pump disabled, then try to crank - fuel pressure should drop as the injectors spray the residual pressure until 0 right?
Mine does not. With rail pressurized then fuel pump disabled -pressure remains constant. I cannot hear the injectors click while I am trying to crank the engine. I am baffled. What would cause this? Any help would be appreciated. Also going to post a link to this thread in the air/fuel/ignition section for any ideas.
Thanks!

 

[cribbj]

Eric have you checked that your cam sensors & crank sensor are OK and the connectors are tight? The ECU isn't going to fire anything unless it gets sync pulses from the cam sensors. I'm no 1UZ expert, but we have this problem occasionally with the 2JZ motors, and quite often it's tracked down to these sensors, or their wiring being damaged. Other culprits are the ECU connectors themselves.John

 

[elhsupra]

cribbj -Good idea. Thanks, will try that. I did ground the injectors at the ECU and they are opening. So you are probably right, Its an input to the ECU to control the injector drivers. Will go try that today. Again thanks.

 

[elhsupra]

I found it!!!!!!
It was a bad IgF signal from one of the igniters. The ECU uses the G, Ne and IgF's to trigger the injectors. Even though both igniter are the same Toyota part numbers, they are different Nippondenso part numbers(201 and PHD1) The 201 is the correct one. So off to post in the wanted section. Again, thank you all for your help

 

[Skwerl]

So you think that you have the wrong ignitor? If that's true, how did the car run when it came out of the exhaust shop? I think you might be chasing the wrong culprit. Perhaps the excess heat in the engine compartment affected more than just the power steering lines. Just a thought.

 

[elhsupra]

Skwerl- you might be right. But its the only thing that I can find so far that has a bad signal, IgF and tach. Car ran when it came out of the exhaust shop, but was horrible to start. Maybe an ignitor on its last leg, finally gave up. When the PHD1 was plugged in with the tach signal, could never get an accurate rpm. RPM Always bouncing. Switch the 2 ignitors and the tach signal was perfect. Should know for sure if it is the problem in the next week, when my replacement ignitor arrives. Hopefully will have more updates.

 

[Skwerl]

The IGf signal just tell the computer that ignition took place, if you're not getting the right signal, the computer thinks that you're not getting spark (which could be true), and it won't turn on the injectors.

 

[elhsupra]

That is what I was thinking, since none of the injectors were working but I still had spark at the plugs. Spark didn't look real strong on half the plugs either.

 

[elhsupra]

It's Alive!

Replacement ignitor in, changed plugs again and it starts. Still a little rough on cold starts, but not bad. I've drove it around yesterday just to make sure everything worked. Decided to go get a baseline dyno done today. Ran it twice just to verify it. Everything is completely stock except header back exhaust, NGK iridium plugs, and EGR delete. Definantly happy for a baseline run.

 

[cribbj]

So was it the ignitor, a cam/crank sensor, or ???

John

 

[elhsupra]

It looks like it was the ignitor. Toyota gave the same part number to two different ND ignitors. Swapped the PHD1 for a 201 ignitor and all is good.