5.5 liter conversion

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I wonder if Crower would let you specify crank and rod dimensions. Specifically, things like the rod diameters and such. I think the best thing to do would be to get a 4.3 block (since these engines are pretty cheap anyway) and offset grind the crank to the SBC spec. Use an SBC rod with a little extra length and move the wrist pin up the piston a bit. Extra stroke without having to get expensive rods, while still keeping a good rod to stroke ratio. You're going to have to, or want to, use custom pistons anyway, might as well take advantage of that.
 
How about a 6.2L conversion? If we use the 4g63 rods as in my other thread, stock crank with a 96.5mm stroke, and the Darton 3.99" wet sleeve (which is about 101mm), that's what we'd get.

Now if you want to get really crazy, we could get a 2UZ crank and get 98mm of stroke out of it. But that'd only be 6.3L. We'd still have a 1.53 rod/stroke ratio though!
 
Actually, I think the ideal setup would be 93.5mm stroke with the wet sleeves, move the wrist pin up 3mm, use 156mm rods and get a really high revving 6.0L. The rod/stroke ratio would be 1.67, better than most Hondas.
 
I think the guys have worked out that a 100+ mm bore is not going to happen on a 1UZ block.

The bore spacing is not high enough IIRC, the best that I thought I would be happy with based on the numbers that have beeen posted is 98mm.
 
A 101mm bore should be easily possible using the Dart MID sleeves.

block.jpg

In this pic you can clearly see that the space between the bores is 43mm. For a conservative estimate, we'll call it 42mm (but it certainly looks like almost 43). Add the stock bore of 87.5mm and you get a bore spacing of 129.5mm. Subtract the 101mm bore and divide by two. We're left with a sleeve thickness at the sides of 14.25mm, which is thicker than the steel liners that are in the engine, because as you can also clearly see in this picture, they are only 13mm, and this is a conservatively large estimate. In reality, it's probably more like 43mm between the bores and 12mm sleeves, which means to keep the same sleeve thickness, we could go up to 105.5mm. But I'd like the little extra thickness (actually, if I were using a 96.5mm stroke, I'd only use 100mm bore because I don't really want more than 6.0L).

If my logic is somehow flawed, please let me know. I've just been throwing around some numbers to try and see what's possible. One thing I just noticed, if my numbers are correct, that our bore spacing is larger than an LS1? The LS1's spacing is 4.4".

And look at this. For one thing, I like the price. And another: these come in 4.05" diameter (102.87mm) and can be bored out to 4.155" (105.537mm). If our bore spacing really is bigger than the LS1, this means 2 things: we can get over 105.5mm bore, and we can't use the LS1 sleeves unless we machine something between them maybe?

Just for curiosity's sake, a 105.5mm bore and a 96.5mm stroke is 6.7L.
 
turboandrew said:
I think those marks are 1/64ths, so we have bore spacing of about 104mm.
Okay thanks, see I thought I was overlooking something. So the LS1 bore spacing is larger than ours. That is what I thought. I will look into more options for sleeves.
 
What about the passages för cooling fluid?

Bore out to 100mm or so, wouldn´t that result in an engine with little or no cooling?

Anyone out there with a damaged block that maby kan chop it up into peaces and check out the construction?
 
I had the sump off an engine on Saturday and noticed the clearance between the skirt of the piston and the counterweights on the crank is less then a couple of mm. I didn't measure it as it doesn't concern me.

My reason for the post is it's fine to do the build in your mind and getting the piston to stop at the right place at the top of the stroke but don't forget the bottom of the stroke.

Things are tight down there.
 
The biggest stroke my engine builder stated was 3.50". Stock 2uzfe is 3.31" More than 3.5" then you will have clearance issues.
 

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My intention is to move the wrist pin up and significantly shorten the skirts. Also, with the amount of material I'm removing from the crank, I can hopefully remove weight from the outside of the counterweights.
 
rarson, that 13 mm liner thickness you measured , isnt that only the lip at the top to prevent liner movement? the liner wont be that thick all the way down, motors like the rover v8 have dry liners about 1mm thick but have no top lip, they also have a tendency for the liner to shift down the bore when overheated, I have one that has moved 6mm that is unless 1uz has wet liners? I assumed they were dry
 
Lextreme said:
Rarson,

You really study my site dont you? I am glad u are using the avialable resources.
Yes! I am really interested in this engine, and pretty much everything I've learned about it has been from this site! There is very little good information elsewhere about the 1UZ.

By the way, thank you for the site because without it, I would know very little of this engine. Thanks!
 


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