2001 1UZFE VVTI High performance build

[XT-1]

okay heres the story, 2001 1UZ VVTI engine hydrolocked-(free!) only one bad rod (broke trying to compress water) it wedged against the side of block with no damage to the block, heads, cylinders etc,

I know the 98 and later rods suck anyway so heres my chance to upgrade, this engine had 30,000 miles on it and looks like new other than the amazing amount of oil sludge inside,,, the cross hatching is absolutely perfect.

so since this thing is 100% disassembled I need guidance doing a... well kick ass hi-po rebuild- pistons, rods, valves(?) etc all new lower end bearings etc.

I would like to be @ about 400-450 hp when done. I recentley acquired a 1991 LS400 with 180000 miles on it and was looking top swap this into my 4runner, but since I scored this for free I seen an oppurtunity to do an insane V8 into my 4runner (the VVTI engine is better for building right?)

any advice from any of you on building the block/heads up to produce that type of HP would be appreciated, I am planning on extrude honing the heads and intake manifold/exhaust ports- as well as doing some cryogenics to a few interior peices (I am getting into the cryo business in a few months as well)
I may have to Turbo to acheie those #s or a supercharger setup, but I want ot keep this simple as I can, I do want reliability along with this added HP. I dont plan on treating as a race car at every stop light

 

[Lextreme II]

I think those 1uzfe rods would work great on your 2uzfe engine.

 

[XT-1]

I have 7 good ones left...if I buy a factory rod is it a good rod to upgrade my 2uz with ? (98 and newer are better than the factory 2UZ?)
and how close to the same weight would a a new rod be?
whats a factory rod run price wise?

can a machine shop check for trueness? to make sure none of those were damaged in the hydrolocking?

 

[milnersXcoupe]

Cast Connecting Rods - no thanks -

I'm new to the Toyota / Lexus engine camp - deserter from AMC - which had con rod issues for their cast rod engines as well.


I've read that the early 1 UZFE cast con rods will hold up under mild Turbocharging / Supercharging and bursts to 7.5Krpm.


Traditional Wisdom dictates that Cast Con Rods are not to be used in any Performance Engine - and with good reason - regardless.:argue: :lame:



Two ways to go for the 1 UZFE / 2 UZFE / 3 UZFE is best illustrated here:



Lexus-Toyota V8 Forum > V8 Performance Tech > Engine Modifications >
Chevy Rods.



AUTRONIC spells it out nicely for use of the early sbc con rod - readily available - inexpensive and models good to 800+ HP for basic street use.





In the 'Stroker Rods' thread - Lextreme is having
'Custom' Stroker Rods made up - reducing the
weight of the rod journal while increasing the Stroke:



BE Bore Size: 1.771"
Thickness (BE) .902"
CC: 5.850"
SE Bore Size: .826"



These are the ones to use.
Check his Thread under
'Stroker Rods'.



Since Flat Top Turbo Pistons / Turbo Wrist Pins are 'Required' - beyond ROSS, I'll be looking at VENOLIA - which have traditionally been the 'Choice' for lowest weight and use in most all Pro Stock & Blown Drag Racing Classes here Stateside.


I ran VENOLIA in a built '77 BMW R100RS flat twin road racer while in college
with great results.


COATINGS is another area to consider for bearings / pistons / chambers / oil shedding from crank & rods / valve faces / exhaust ports:



NASCAR loves 'em.



Valves ? Some posts talk of 1mm+ yet, with Turbo / Supercharging for 450HP I would think the
added weight / mass to be a detriment.



Quote from POWERBOAT Magazine:


DO I NEED INCONEL?
Question: I have a 1979 18' Sanger jet boat. I'm planning on installing a big-block Chevy motor in the boat this winter. My questions have to do with the stainless-steel valves. First, what is the difference between a Manley Extreme Duty and a Manley Severe Duty valve? What is an Inconel exhaust valve? For a 500-hp motor, are the Inconel valves a must? If I run the boat hard will the Severe Duty valves hold up? I'm not looking to run the boat wide open for hours on end, but I want to be able to race around the delta and not worry about failure.

Jim Wolfe
San Jose, Calif.

Answer: Yes, you do need Inconel exhaust valves if reliability is important to you.

The Manley Extreme Duty valve is made with exotic XH-430 Inconel material. Inconel valves are usually only used for exhaust. Generally speaking, the Inconel valve is about twice the cost of Manley's Severe Duty series valves. The constant load and high rpm on marine engines creates excessive and prolonged exhaust heat which is detrimental to inferior valve materials. If you do not install Inconel valves and drop the head off one of the less expensive alternatives, the damage that will be caused will be tens of times greater than the difference in the valve costs."




You might drop Hank Manley a note as to your build & needs........




I suggest you read all 'Head Porting' / Swapping posts prior to Extrude Honing the Manifold.



For Cylinder Heads as beyond some mild clean up - Turbo use negates most cost / benefit from
extensive Head Porting - Port Match & save your monies.



According to one post - Extrude Hone won't 'flow' the cylinder heads -
only the manifold.




Concentrate on a functioning Performance Exhaust Headers system and Cams specific to your final configuration / transmission / rear ratio / usage.




If you plan to run TURBO - as I am & most are - I've chosen to run a Single Turbo rather than Twin - back pressure being one consideration along with packaging.





Read the Entire Forums Posts before putting pen to paper - all the Pros / Cons of various parts and builds are here.





If you are running an Automatic Transmission - visit:


http://www.ipttrans.com/

=or=

http://tinyurl.com/yv76rc

 

[Anaema]

don't forget that heat reflective coatings can also be used in the intake ports and the intake manifold.

i have read that Extrude Honing WILL improve flow in the cylinder heads, just not by any extreme numbers. it also helps with port matching. i have also heard it will improve fuel mileage.

putting used rods in with a brand new might not be a great idea. rods stretch and work harden and do all kinds of other bad things you don't want. the rods might be uneven lengths and such. of course, they might be near perfect, and you could use them just fine, but it would be a good idea to check them all.