1UZFE runs great without AFM

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
And thanks. I do a few aftermarket ECU's into Oz now. I are dealing with 1-2 Aussie customers each week but most Aussies can't handle the ribbing I hand to them. And I might have to learn how to tune Holdens and Fords.
 
Haha I bet. Yeah the AC delco ecus are pretty good I here. Having the ability to retune the factory ecu on Holdens is great, I wish it was the same for the Lexus.

Just as reference the factory adjustment only mentions resistance to be measured an not a volts for the TPS. Do you just set the 500 millivolts and not worry about the resistance settings ?

I also have a MiNes ecu that isn't currently in the car. Have you ever had a chance to dyno a MiNes ecu in a 1U ?
 
Looks good Gloverman. How did the car respond to the standalone ?

I really need a scan tool for tuning and setup purposes it appears. Would be very useful.
I use an Efilive device on my VE SS and that works really well.

Can you recommend a scan tool that would be good to get.
I'm assuming I will have to wire in a diagnostics port on the conversion car.
 
Just occured to me tonight. Do you need to ground the ecu's by bolting them down with 1uz conversions ? I recall you saying that you had a grounding issue with AFM and had similar problems to mine. Wondering if I need to add extra grounds to the ecu, currently just supported by a bonnet release cable, not bolted down.

I only mention this because after a recent drive I have realised that the dreaded afm still hurts the performance a fair amount, even though I thought I fixed this issue.

3 different ecus, 3 different AFM, always loses power and response when afm is connected. Not slightly, but very significant drop in power. The only thing I can think of is the wiring is a miss somewhere
 
I have a old Hanatech scanner which works well but slightly outside the price range of the DIY home mechanic.

The Soarer already drives nicer with the aftermarket ECU. We have been doing some other stuff and I have a few ideas to test when we get to the dyno this week.

Stock ECU does not need to be earthed in a conversion. I have been testing some other ecu's (and AFM's) this week and the ecus are just sitting on the carpet. Issues I have had with AFM earthing have been internal ECU issues , poor earths on the block and broken or nearly broken wires inside the loom.
 
Hello Gloverman,

Thanks for the information, really appreciated. Can get a bit mind boggling on your own.
On the earthing issue, I did add another earth lead to the engine, one from the cylinder head, and it now has two from the block to the chassis. At one point the engine wouldn't even turn over when one of the the earths had been disconnected from the block. Hopefully this is not an issue any more, maybe need to add another ?

I've seen a few scan tools on ebay, however they all seem to be for OBD2, I really need to wire in a oval plug to the loom first. Do you have any for purchase ?

I'm going to test the AFM wiring again, it's been a while and can't remember the exact results from last time. I almost considering just running a new AFM loom back to the ecu with five wires new wires. Is that sound thinking ?

Further to this get in on the dyno, compare the two ecus I have.
MiNes ecu
MiNes ecu without afm
Stock ecu
Stock ecu without afm
Look at power, torque curve, AFR's


After that if it can't be sorted, not sure ??
 
Anyone have an idea what TPS voltage should be a WOT ?
My V8 Soarer is reading 550 millivolts throttle closed. 3.8 V @ WOT. Does this seem about right ? I know Gloverman said it should read around 500 mV closed.

I haven't had a chance to test the conversion car yet, but will be keen to see what that reads.
 
Has anyone got access to a 92.9-94.9 1uzfe engine for testing.

Wondering if there is a difference between TPS readings of different year engines SC400 verse ls400 etc.

Donor car was a 94 celsior with trac control. Throttle body was replaced with another from a non trac control car, possibly never setup correctly ?
 
Posting this from another site as a reference. Seems like 3.48 V is a good target for WOT, .5 closes.

"Vc should be between 4.8v and 5v.
VTA should range from .5v (as low as .4v is fine, IIRC) to 3.48v (higher than 3.48 may result in a fault code depending on the actual tolerance of the components in your specific ECU).
Vs should range from .4v to 4.8v.
IDL should be 0v with the throttle pretty much closed... otherwise it's an open circuit... should be around 5v, but it's irrelevant.

I presume that by Vss you're referring to Vs or the VAF signal input? Yes, Vs is used in most calculations as long as a valid signal is present... after an out of range signal is diagnosed by the ECU it will revert to a base map, but you won't like it.

"
 
Looks like the above quote seems a tad off for the VTA signal.
My car was reading .55 V closed and 3.80 V WOT.
The lowest I could set the TPS to @ WOT was around 3.6, so 3.48 isn't achievable.
I end up setting it to around .45 V / 3.7 V. Car seems to have lost a bit of power, idle is perfect at 650 rpm.

Does anyone have the actual factory Voltage for the VTA signal, I have read that 3.8 V is on the money, but nothing concrete.
 
I always set the TPS of the idle switch. On with throttle closed and off with .25mm throttle opening. From there confirm TPS is at 0% closed and around 80% open with the scan tool. Idle switch on for too long causes flat spot off the bottom. Idle switch not coming on gives high idle. Low end VTA1 should be around 0.5 exact reading is less important than idle switch and percentage the ECU sees. Full open on Toyota's I'm happy between 3.5 and 4.5. Very rarely do the older toyota's see more than 80% on the scan tool. Newer ones are better.
 
Thanks for that, I'll reset it all tonight and see how it goes. Just the small change I made has had a noticeable negative effect on the power delivery, so it is definitely worth spending he time to get just right
 
Ok, just set it up again. Setting off the idle switch seems to make a lot of sense once done. There also seems to be a bit of play in the throttle linkages which makes it a tad difficult to set with a feeler gauge.
Anyway, reset ecu, idles 650rpm when warm.
VTA was reading .65 V at idle 3.9 V @WOT.
Won't get to set up the conversion car for a few weeks as it is 3.5 hours away, but I have a feeling the TPS settings will be a bit out now I have set this one up.
 
Getting the feeler gauge there wasn't that hard, just found the first degree of movement was just taking up slack in the linkages. Anyway I set it so the throttle plate only needed the smallest of movement to go open circuit.
Drove car today and has had a pronounced effect on drivability from previous setup, much sharper just of idle, much stronger through midrange and part throttle. Can't wait to set up the other car now.
 
Kelvin do you have any spare half moon diagnostic ports ? Considering wiring one into conversion car if the wiring isn't too much.
Also need a scan tool, but they all seem to be obd2, anyone know of a reasonably priced obd1 scanner ?
 
yer scan tools for older Toyota stuff can be a pain
I have an old hannatech scanner which I don't want to update
cause its good for old cars
 
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