1uzfe Cooling Question

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G

GhostRunner

New Member
Hi All,
I am up to radiator stage and I pose a question.:D
After recessing my 3 core radiator aprox 40mm forwards
I have close to 95mm between the fan idler pulley and radiator.
Would 4 8" fans be enough to cool the situation down?
I am going to convert the radiator to a vertical dual pass.
2 fans set to come on at 85deg, the other will be switched at 95.
Both inlets will be increased to 45mm diameter.
I will still have a fair gap between the motor and the back of the fans
this will give a bit more room for the air to find it's way around the motor.
The air conditioning core will be under-slung.
What do you think?
 
Its impossible with the information given to supply an intelligent answer. The 1U typically cools very well. Have you added up the amperage of the 4 fans to make sure you're not going to cook the alternator? I just helped put a 16" Zirgo in a XR4Ti Merkur that is 3.5 inches tall. I had to be very careful in placing right between to pulleys. You would probably do better with two fans on the radiator with some sort of fan shroud to channel air. Then put a single on the AC condenser to come on with the AC and stay on while the AC is on. But with what you have put up its just a guess.

Jake
 
Thanks for your reply.
what I am thinking. :)
Both fans will be hard wired to the N70 700cca battery.
A 100 amp relay will drive each 2 sets of fans.
The under slung air core has 2 standard fans.
Medium draw with 2 fans is around 14 Amps.
I do not know the amperage of the the 2 factory 8" fans.
.
The idea is that only 2 will be in operation when just cruising around with the second set only coming into operation when needed.
I would like to keep air conditioning active as I need it also keeping the "Venturi" effect happening with an under slung air core.
I know that the fans CFM can be a little bit dubious but under full steam it is around 2800 CFM.
One of the major problems that I am aware of with this type of conversions is the amount of room that is left between the motor and radiator. I am keeping that to the maximum possible distance I can fight to get.
So,
Taking into consideration that in normal driving conditions only 2 fans will be in operation.
Only with an extreme load on the vehicle will all fans be running and even then they should only be momentary.
I know it all sounds a little bit extreme but this is one area that I am not going to skimp on to stop those pesky motor overheats. :)
Overheating can be a bit of an anoying, expensive past time. LOL
 
Think about how to get the heat out of the engine compartment aswell.
I fit vents in the bonnet and remove the rubber 'skirts' from under the wheel arches to let the heat out.
A 16" electric, curved blade fan either as a pusher or puller works well too.
None of my conversions have had cooling issues.

These are Jaguar XK8 vents...( Isuzu Trooper scoop was fitted by owner)
LEXURFVIII03.jpg

And these are Jaguar XKR Supercharged vents....
GEDC0288.jpg

The vents are available on eBay.
 
Just reread your post between phone calls. :) :)
So, actually removing the rubber skirts improves the situation?
We can get up to 40 Deg down here. LOl.
Trial and error I suppose.
 
By choice I wouldn't run 8" fans as the blade area isn't much larger than the motor area.

I'd look for a larger fan or two that draw at least 25-30 amps each.

The theory behind high ampage fans is the more they draw the more power they have to move air which will result in higher flow.

I'd be inclined to run 2 12-14" fans in a pusher mode and ensure there is a good route for the air to escape.

Don't put a scoop on the bonnet as it will introduce air and make the flow worse.

Vents will help is installed correctly.
 
Zuffen,
All is only too true. :) :)
Hows the "Zuffenmobile" going.
Can hardly wait to see that. LOL
I am well known to Jeff in the ACT.
anyway,
I realize the fan syndrome that is why I was asking. :)
Radiator I am thinking about using is a Deisal Hilux 3 core.
I do have two 15" Euro fans here but I can only install 1 on the motor side.
It draws about 30 amps when running but only covers close to 3/4 of the radiator core.
Hence my reason for going dual pass. Plus I get the added advantage of all the hoses being at the top of the motor, not snaking down the R/H side of the radiator.
I do not expect to have any cavitation issues with the water pump as it is designed for a much larger cross flow radiator.
I do have a modified Landcruiser 4 core unit but I think heat soak will kill that idea plus, well, Just a bit to thick. Dammit.
.
The bonnet vents if needed would be installed at the outer rear of the bonnet as if installed too close to the center I would have engine fumes or whatever being sucked into the cabin plenum chamber plus I do not want to interfere with the low pressure region at the back of the motor. Basically to dissipate some of the heat generated with the exhaust headers I am going to build.
I have managed to recess the radiator forwards another 45 mm without getting to carried away with an angle grinder. :) :) :)
A spal 16" requires at least 110 mm to clear.
Thanks for all your comments, Greatly apreciated I can tell you. :) :)
I will keep thinking.
Doug
 
Doug,

The Zuffenmobile is going well and just had a photo shoot with Street Machine Magazine. Also appeared at Motorex. Thing's getting famous!

Have you thought about a 15" at the rear of the radiator with a shroud.

Then run another 15" offset as a pusher.

If you put flaps opposite the pusher fan you get the advantage of the full radiator when air flow is high but the pulling fan will close the flaps. Check the link https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...-uiQfZ9IC4DA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=651

Before making a decision give it a lot of thought and Google to your hearts content.
 
Zuffen said:
By choice I wouldn't run 8" fans as the blade area isn't much larger than the motor area.

I'd look for a larger fan or two that draw at least 25-30 amps each.

The theory behind high ampage fans is the more they draw the more power they have to move air which will result in higher flow.

I'd be inclined to run 2 12-14" fans in a pusher mode and ensure there is a good route for the air to escape.

Don't put a scoop on the bonnet as it will introduce air and make the flow worse.

Vents will help is installed correctly.
Click to expand...

The scoop in the photo above actually channels airflow down the back of the engine and over the transmission due to the 2" bodylift.
 
Zuffen said:
But it also pressurises the engine bay hence restricting air flow.
Click to expand...


True it can do that, but in this case it doesn't.
It's fitted in the optimum position to allow the incoming airflow to go directly down the back of the engine. it also has a small deflector fitted underneath to ensure this. The transmission temps are cooler as a result (when on the move) and that can help keep excess heat out of the engine's cooling system as well. (The truck was originally a 2.4)
I also removed the oil filter inspection plate from the inner wing and cut out the same section on the other side to allow heat and air pressure to escape.
 
Zuffen,
That has givven me some real idea's. LOL
I am now nearly sure on what to do.
Many Thanks, Look forwards to meeting you one day.
.
Bushwacker,
If needed I will obtain me some of them Jag vents. I originally got the focus from some of your build threads. And if I need them they will have deflectors on them.
.
Many, Many Thanks people's but if any more sujestions keep em coming.
.
Heck I am enjoying this. LOL
 
Gday Ghostrunner
Ive got a 92 surf with 1uz got standard diesel radiator 16" curved blade fan on engine side had a few cooling issues but think all sorted (haven't had a 40+ day since) took off huge spotties and cut a couple of holes in bulbar. it use to sit near 100 degrees but since mods sits just below 90 degrees on a mid to high 30s day also put 2x 7" fans on front of radiator for traffic on hot days but haven't used them yet.
 
I've got the 1UZ in a Nissan hardbody. - mini truck

My cooling system is a large but thin stock radiator from an 88 toyota supra non-supercharged. The fan is a stock fan from a Ford 6 cylinder, and I only have low speed wired up. I live in Florida, so average days are 90 degrees, and a heat index of 105. Even in complete stop traffic, I have zero problems with my cooling system.

My fan is similar to this one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-954_wpRWsQ
 
Jakespeeds said:
Its impossible with the information given to supply an intelligent answer. The 1U typically cools very well. Have you added up the amperage of the 4 fans to make sure you're not going to cook the alternator? I just helped put a 16" Zirgo in a XR4Ti Merkur that is 3.5 inches tall. I had to be very careful in placing right between to pulleys. You would probably do better with two fans on the radiator with some sort of fan shroud to channel air. Then put a single on the AC condenser to come on with the AC and stay on while the AC is on. But with what you have put up its just a guess.

Jake
Click to expand...

Don't listen to this guy, he has no idea what he's talking about. Obviously a Merkur XR4Ti is not 3.5 inches tall. :rolleyes:
 
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