1UZ into my Off-Road Long Travel Tacoma

What type of finish for the aluminum parts that are left?

  • A gruelling smooth and shiny polish.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A nice even and bright abrasive sanding.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A quick acid wash to bleach them nice and bright.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
What a complete rip off! Yeah just call or visit a Carquest if you have one near you. Or go on Ebay and order a set of gaskets for the engine for $100 +$8 for shipping. Every gasket in the kit is good except I would only use a MLS head gasket. I don't know what brand they are but they good quality. Actually those bastards just recently lowered the price to $85 for the same exact kit I paid $100 for!! :rant: Just search Ebay for "LS400 gasket set".
 
I made a little progress during the final assembly recently. I can't get it any cleaner so I guess I'll start putting it together.

fwf_1uz_a01.jpg

I got all the fuel injectors placed. Before I could throw them in the manifold I had to do a little grinding with my Dremel to remove the powdercoat material that was backed into the holes. Next time I'll cover them but it wasn't too much work.
fwf_1uz_a02.jpg

Cleaning and painting bolts is always fun. It's coming along though.
fwf_1uz_a03.jpg

And the most exciting part yesterday was changing out the starter bolts! David turned me onto this little method to make starter changing a breeze if I ever need. Putting new hardware in from the front of the starter keeps you from having to take out those long bolts from the back! Firewalls and EGR tubes turn the starter changing job into a 7hr marathon (I've heard). This way it can be changed out in less than an hour. Plus the gold grade 8 hardware looks gangster. :bling:
fwf_starter_01.jpg
 
Thanks Drifty. I'm loving the results from all this work. I can't wait to see people's reactions when I pop the hood. I used to run a full race rotary 13B with Mikuni carbs and a 9lb flywheel. 9,000 rpms all day long and pour in the two stroke oil at the fuel pump =] People would freak out when they saw what was making all that power.

This 1UZ should be just as fun to show around so this is my new toy for sure. Friends of mine used to have Corvette's with the red LS engine under the hood and I always wanted a sweet engine that looked like theirs. That is my inspiration. I can't wait to start wiring up the Adaptronic! I need to figure out where I want to mount it... Oh I'll be writing up an article on the quickest way I've found to clean up these engines. It's always a lot of work but I have a few tools and cleaners that make the process go by a lot faster.
 
Hats OFF Smitherz..:Eyecrazy: awesome job and i only hope i can come up with a masterpeice like you have..Just need to see/hear the results now and then the proof is in the pudding....lol
 
And the most exciting part yesterday was changing out the starter bolts! David turned me onto this little method to make starter changing a breeze if I ever need. Putting new hardware in from the front of the starter keeps you from having to take out those long bolts from the back! Firewalls and EGR tubes turn the starter changing job into a 7hr marathon (I've heard). This way it can be changed out in less than an hour. Plus the gold grade 8 hardware looks gangster. :bling:
fwf_starter_01.jpg

Nice progress!! What size bolts did you use there?
 
Good work man...following this thread closely! I got a 96 Tacoma Auto 4wd i am planning to swap in the 1uz now that the 3.4L is loosing compression.

Going 5spd swap as well to make things easier.
 
Hey guys been working my a$$ off on a project so I can make the big leap forward and put my engine in. Here is the rundown of the exact hardware I used for my starter installation above:
  • 2 - G8 (grade eight) bolts, 10mm thread and 50mm total length
  • 2 - G8 10mm nuts
  • 2 - 10mm split ring (locking) black washers
  • 4 - regular black washers
To add to the starter project from my notes...
The thread length of the bolts can't be any longer than 46mm or else they will protrude past the machined edge of the engines mating surface (that comes in contact with the bellhousing). A total length of 50mm was just fine. The starter is also threaded so I just simply screwed the new bolt in (nice and tight) from the front and then placed the starter in position. Then the nuts simply secure it from the other side nice and easy. Now if I ever have to swap in a new one (lifetime warranty on the Carquest starter =] then I just need to remove the manifolds and back out the bolts from the front OR remove the nuts from the rear. How cool is that? Not very but it looks neat. Have fun.

And about transmission option... I'm not sure exactly what I want to do. To get my rig on the road I will use my W transmission but I won't be feeling confident enough for big burnouts with it. I'm sure it would do it for a little while but then my differential probably isn't up to the task. I already have a Ford 9in that will match my new front suspension when I build it, but that is a little down the road. I was thinking about using the R150 transmission with a Marlin adapter to my gear driven transfer case. This might be a the easy and safe way. But then again I can easily get a Turbo 400 tranny that I could build to handle anything I can throw at it. For now I'll just concentrate on putting the engine in!!
 
Nice one Smitherzz...:cool2: I have ordered my rear lex..hope to have it next week,getting the Bellhousing and clutch etc from CRS next week also..Have the truck now too:saeek: ..just need to make a decision on the suspension componenets and order that next week also...Things are starting to look up :biggthumpup: ,will start a thread basiclly next and go through the motions... :fingersx: keeo yall posted.. :006:
 

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Hey guys been working my a$$ off on a project so I can make the big leap forward and put my engine in. Here is the rundown of the exact hardware I used for my starter installation above:
  • 2 - G8 (grade eight) bolts, 10mm thread and 50mm total length
  • 2 - G8 10mm nuts
  • 2 - 10mm split ring (locking) black washers
  • 4 - regular black washers

Are these 1.50 or 1.25 thread pitch?
 
Well I didn't really measure the threads. What I did was take the factory starter bolt with me to the hardware store and just used the same thread pitch that matched up with it. So it is whatever the factory is. :veryhappy:
 
Id swap the Carquest stater for a factory one thats been rebuilt by a local shop.

All the starters Ive ever bought from an auto parts store didnt last long.

That lifetime warranty is worthless when the starter dies, especially one thats under the intake.

Good idea with the bolts though!

Im torn between swapping in the 1UZ
or the 5 litre Ford,or the V-W tdi turbodiesel.
 
I'm practically sponsored by Carquest and they will bend over backwards for me if anything happens. My engine is going to be so easy to work on in my trucks configuration as the whole engine bay is going to be changed for ease of access with some custom tubing to replace the flimsy sheet metal that braces the engine bay. While making my body lift mounts I recognized some key areas that I want to brace with a subframe up front. I want to cut out the front of the truck body to mount a new racing radiator and gain a couple inches of room etc. Getting to the starter will be a fairly quick job especially with the starter bolt mod as well. Now if that starter gives up on a road trip than that would be a bummer though. :ponder:
 
This thread, and your work are very inspiring. The attention to detail you've shown is impressive.

And about transmission option... I'm not sure exactly what I want to do. To get my rig on the road I will use my W transmission but I won't be feeling confident enough for big burnouts with it. I'm sure it would do it for a little while but then my differential probably isn't up to the task. I already have a Ford 9in that will match my new front suspension when I build it, but that is a little down the road. I was thinking about using the R150 transmission with a Marlin adapter to my gear driven transfer case. This might be a the easy and safe way. But then again I can easily get a Turbo 400 tranny that I could build to handle anything I can throw at it. For now I'll just concentrate on putting the engine in!!

Are you still planning on a one-off custom adaptor for the bellhousing? Using the auto bell? Or?

I have an identical dilemma, r150f w/chain t-case, and a w56 w/gear, want to combine r-series with gear t-case. So I'll be interested to see how you progress.
 
Hey thanks, I'm glad people are getting something out of my work here. I could have just slapped my engine in but I really love working on this thing so I'm really putting some resources into this project.

I have the sources to have a custom adapter made for me by pro's so they will soon be producing an adapter for me. This will let my W59 bellhousing mate right up to my 1UZ. I was thinking of finding a R150 trans or a new 6spd (from the 06 or 07 taco) but I'll cross that road when my W59 gives up. I want to test the limits of the W59 just for fun as mine has very low miles and is in great shape. The R150 has a different bolt pattern so they aren't interchangeable at all. Advanced Adapter already makes an adapter to put the gear t-case with the R150 so you have it made. I don't know about putting the R150 with the 1UZ though. I haven't seen anyone do that yet.
 
In Kiwi land here is what we have been working on for ages.... the guys have developed this and a "W" series box bell housing..cheap as chips i think..:)
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...ngines-drive-trains/auction-117795108.htm?p=6

check it out and it should just bolt straight up..of cause with a new flywheel,clutch,etc etc..I normally cruze here for my bits and peices..

Hope this helps..BTW if you guys need anything over here I can try help out best i can (postage,freight what ever really)if you feel you can trust me..that is..
 
A high performance mini trailer...Classic... Smithers you need to cut those over extended end rails... Also what about independant suspension on those rears and some new allow rims? The wood deck could use another coat of high gloss wood deck laquer and sealer for the ultimate shine.. With that you can dolly around with pride..

I like little projects like that too...I aslo built a 125 gallon wood fish tank stand from scratch when I was 12 and it was a true beauty, doors hinges, stain, sanded out all the sharp corners to round, etc...I suprised myself on that one.....Shocked the family... Then I stepped it up and began to build and custum design go-carts and mini bikes after that... The rest was history... Now I am a liscensed contractor today go figure???...
 


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