1uz crown resonator

[sideshow]

hi all

hey zuffen i read on another post about the differences the resonator box makes

do u think it night be the cause of my engine pinging

i have sorted out the new diff probs
when i drive under 80 kph i leave overdrive off so engine revs over 2000

when i hit freeway i turn overdrive on

i have gotten back to 350 kms per tank again

but i filled up with vortex premium but not the 98 vortex hi premium cause there was no pump with it

well its pinging again hehe

do u think its worth tryin to fit the resonator somehow

im goin to order octain booster in bulk and use that too

 

[Zuffen]

Jim,
The resonator you refer to is, I presume, in the inlet manifold.

It may help HP and fuel economy (marginally) but I can't see it causing pinging. I'll remove mine and see what effect it has.

If it's running hot are you sure it's running enough advance? A retarded engine will run high EGT and overheat the heads. I had this problem and it took a re-wire to solve it.

I only run PULP as the cost difference and the distance driven is of no signicance.

With fuel economy you need to remember aerodynamics have little or no effect until 100-110kmh (65 MPH). As we all tend to drive under that speed you need to look at where your engine/drivetrain is comfortable.

Personally if my car used 40litre per 100K (around 3MPG) it wouldn't bother me. I figure that's the price I pay for my fun. My wife may not see it like that but that's why we marry to explore our differences. When racing it we got it to use more fuel than that per 100K.

 

[sideshow]

yer the small black intake unit that bolts up to the throttle body

its probably mainly for if engine backfires

 

[Zuffen]

It serves two purposes.

Firstly it dampens the air resonance the intake gets and quietens the intake down. Take it off and the engine sounds much more aggressive and louder.

The second trick is by dampening the air resonance it actually produces more horespower. Tests show most cars will lose power and torque if it's removed.

I've read an article in Autospeed where they played around with the volume of the chamber. As capacity decreased so did power. The theory is a chamber of around 4litres would be idea for thr 1UZ.

 

[Peewee]

Thats interesting about that Autospeed article.

Because I have Julian Edgars book, 21st Century Performance I think its called.
Anyway, he mentions NOTHING about those intake chambers when he was showing you how to design a better intake system.

 

[Zuffen]

Peewee,

I searched Auto Speed and I think you're right.

It could have been Zoom when it was on the Net. They had photos of a Daihatsu Charade testing differnet sized soft drink bottles as resonance chambers. Power climbed with larger chambers until they exceeded the engines capacity.

 

[Peewee]

Hmmm,
I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I still find it interesting that Juliun Edgar doesn't mention it in his book. And that whole book somewhat focuses on getting the best bang for buck out of motors.

He has a whole chapter (or at least a few pages) about designing the intake piping (from infront of car to TB, not from TB to piston), and its never mentioned.

 

[mycarhasposessedme]

Saw one once done with a length of concertina sort of hose, you know like air con ducting that you can make longer and shorter.
It was just connected to the throttle body and then the length altered to give different volumes, was done on a dyno and they noted the power differences.
From memory pretty sure it backs up what Zuffen has said.
I think it was a gen 3 commodore they were using.

 

[n4087607]

peewee in that book he does mention that the ducting after the throttle body can be part of a tuned length intake system and altering it can reduce performance in some cases

 

[Zuffen]

The simple solution is to dyno a car with and without and see what we get.

 

[Celsiorous]

id be very interested in the power differences, I have been planning on removing the chamber when I make a cold air box. I was wanting to replace all the stock piping from the TB to the MAF and then a custom airbox with a snorkel to around the number plate area on my Celsior. I have read that when making an airbox on an NA engine you should not have it completely sealed and to include a "breather" hole in the airbox itself so if the engine needs to it can get quick unrestricted air from the engine bay via this hole. Anyone have any opinions on this?

 

[V8 Hilux]

I remember the artical in zoom your talking about. it was on a standard gen 3 commodore. they remover the afm and reprogramed the computer to use map sensor only as was done by hsv for the 300kw gts/gto. they then tried differant lengths of duct straight of the tb with no air filter. i think from memory there was a huge increase with a long tube. i think they estimated from 220fwkw to 300fwkw after some retuning with ls1edit program.

im not sure this a the same affect your talking about with the resinator as this was the direct inlet track and not an additional volume ducted off from it.

i was of the opinion that the resinator had very little to do with performance and more to do with noise. i could be wrong. if extra power was that easy why wouldn't the manafactur have done it in the first place.

V8 Hilux

 

[Zuffen]

I guess manufacturers of lesser cars wouldn't fit resinators unless there was some benefit.

I'm pretty sure the likes of Hyundai would care too much what the engine sounded like as long as it ran. Yet they use a resonator so the only option I can see is increased power or a smoother torque curve.

 

[svpmx83]

Rod,

Do you recall what wiring changes you made that had an effect on timing - Ive just fitted rush extractors to mine and it still feels flat.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Peewee]

I *think* he meant it was running in limp home mode.

 

[Zuffen]

SVP,

I have no idea what the problem was.

I got so sick of it I went out to the garage one night and removed the whole ECU and its wiring with the cutters. Then I started again in an orderly manner and re-wired it and it ran perfectly.

This is where I get my theory that most problems with flat or limp running is related to wiring errors.

Here's a photo of my new wiring. As you can se it's fairly organised and can be easilly followed.