XR8tt
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Could machine block and fit bigger sleeves.. Being a drag only engine ?? Grout filling the block helps ...
1uz aluminum rods
- Thread starter shady1375
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
HarperRacingBangkok
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No, I do not want to use liners or offset grind a standard 1UZ crank. I am not looking for ultimate strength, just usable strength. I have not heard of a 2UZ crank breaking or two-molt mains breaking at 600hp, my goal. I am exploring the various combinations of practical bracket race engine assembly around the "UZ" family. In the end I have settled on a 2UZ short block, bored a safe maximum over bore, custom strong forged pistons, and either aluminum rods or the Lextreme steel rods -- and ported 1UZ heads with a custom, larger-than-stock intake. This is do-able in Thailand (fancy machining is not). I am assuming 400hp at 8 pounds of boost, and 600hp with NOS. Do-able. I am fully cognizant of the development path to more horsepower and stronger (read: more expensive "ultimate") parts, but I will build to my needs and my intended use, within my budget and the technological resources available here in Thailand. A 4.8L (265 cu.in.) is better than a 4.0 (242 cu.in.) in a low-boost, high NOS application -- for me.
By the way, aluminum rods in other than Fuel/Alcohol Blown Hemi, Pro Stock, or high winding "competition eliminator" class drag racing, can and do last a long time, The Hemi guys make 5000++hp, and steel rods would have to be replaced each round too. In fact, anything over 2000hp will have regular rod problems. Aluminum rods CAN be good on the street (with a proper tune and adequate cooling). Heat is the big problem with aluminum rods - it allows the rods to stretch at a much faster rate. For my bracket motor they are a good option -- and cost no more than the Lextreme rods.
By the way, aluminum rods in other than Fuel/Alcohol Blown Hemi, Pro Stock, or high winding "competition eliminator" class drag racing, can and do last a long time, The Hemi guys make 5000++hp, and steel rods would have to be replaced each round too. In fact, anything over 2000hp will have regular rod problems. Aluminum rods CAN be good on the street (with a proper tune and adequate cooling). Heat is the big problem with aluminum rods - it allows the rods to stretch at a much faster rate. For my bracket motor they are a good option -- and cost no more than the Lextreme rods.
XR8tt
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Umm I guess an iron block can be bored and still keep cylinder rigidity..
That's where grouting comes into play..
Keep in mind the extra weight ...
N20 keeps in take temps cool if tuned right...
That's where grouting comes into play..
Keep in mind the extra weight ...
N20 keeps in take temps cool if tuned right...
HarperRacingBangkok
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Correction
CORRECTION: In my last posting, I said " A 4.8L (265 cu.in.)[sic] is better than a 4.0 (242 cu.in.) in a low-boost, high NOS application -- for me." . . but my math was wrong. An standard bore 2UZ bottom is 4.7L (286 cu.in.), and an over-bored, standard stroke 2UZ can be 4.75L (289 cu.in.), or 4.8L (292 cu.in.). This is 44-50 more cubic inches than the standard 1UZ (242 cu.in.) . . . at the price of an additional 80 pounds. The ball park equation, "for every 100 pounds you take out of your car you gain 10hp" means that I would need to get 8hp out of this combination to break even. I believe I will.
CORRECTION: In my last posting, I said " A 4.8L (265 cu.in.)[sic] is better than a 4.0 (242 cu.in.) in a low-boost, high NOS application -- for me." . . but my math was wrong. An standard bore 2UZ bottom is 4.7L (286 cu.in.), and an over-bored, standard stroke 2UZ can be 4.75L (289 cu.in.), or 4.8L (292 cu.in.). This is 44-50 more cubic inches than the standard 1UZ (242 cu.in.) . . . at the price of an additional 80 pounds. The ball park equation, "for every 100 pounds you take out of your car you gain 10hp" means that I would need to get 8hp out of this combination to break even. I believe I will.
4U2QUIK
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alloy? 7xxx or better?
HarperRacingBangkok
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4U2QUIK
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lol gimmicky. most 7xxx series aluminum is cold worked into a linear grain structure.
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Jeff,
If you're chasing capacity I would go with later heads as they flow much better than the 1UZ heads.
Not much point in having more capacity that is being restricted by the ports or manifolds.
My choice would be use the 1UZ block with 3UZ heads and steel rods.
This will give you low weight, high flow heads and tough rods.
You can fab up manifolds to compliment the later heads and your exhausts still bolt straight on.
If you're chasing capacity I would go with later heads as they flow much better than the 1UZ heads.
Not much point in having more capacity that is being restricted by the ports or manifolds.
My choice would be use the 1UZ block with 3UZ heads and steel rods.
This will give you low weight, high flow heads and tough rods.
You can fab up manifolds to compliment the later heads and your exhausts still bolt straight on.
Attachments
HarperRacingBangkok
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Zuffen, thanks for the tip. Some of what I have to work against here in Thailand is availability of parts . . . without the expense of importing them. There were no cars officially imported to Thailand with a 3UZ, and very few "grey market" cars/SUVs with 2UZs. I have a chance of getting a 2UZ short block that has a "damaged" block, but I haven't seen it yet. It is suppose to have a good crank. If the block is bad (unrepairable), I may take the crank and use it in a 1UZ block (unbored) with steel (or aluminum) rods and custom pistons . . for my next project. It is cheap to get a set of 1UZ heads ported here, and the Thais do a pretty good job. But I do like cubic inches . . and a 292ci 1UZ would be cool. Tell me more about the 3UZ heads? I am not familiar with their advantages.
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The later 2/3UZ heads have totally different intakes and port shapes, but the exhausts are the same spacing so your existing headers will bolt straight up.
They flow heaps more than the early engines.
Even a well ported 1UZ will be outflowed by a stock VVTi head.
Nothing is interchangable between the early and late heads.
I'd look at the cost of importing the later heads and intake as they bolt on and use the same cam drive as the early ones.
As you run aftermarket electronics it shouldn't be too hard get it all to work.
They flow heaps more than the early engines.
Even a well ported 1UZ will be outflowed by a stock VVTi head.
Nothing is interchangable between the early and late heads.
I'd look at the cost of importing the later heads and intake as they bolt on and use the same cam drive as the early ones.
As you run aftermarket electronics it shouldn't be too hard get it all to work.
HarperRacingBangkok
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OK. Thanks. So, I would also need new camshafts on the 3UZ heads. This sounds like an expensive option. I have not noticed a rush to 3UZ heads on this forum.
XR8tt
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"Then again" you haven't exactly optimised the power plant you have now...
With the power adders you have ??
I would guess more top end and better times will come..
Maybe build another block so you have one engine to work on while racing ??
With the power adders you have ??
I would guess more top end and better times will come..
Maybe build another block so you have one engine to work on while racing ??
HarperRacingBangkok
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XR8tt, that's exactly what I intend to do: While I am maximizing my current combination (motor and chassis set-up) through racing, I want to build a real 'race' short block with forged pistons and either aluminum or steel rods for a reliable 650hp or so. Either a 1UZ block with the 2UZ crank, or a 2UZ short block with some cubes (.030 over), depending on what I can get my hands on here in Bangkok. I will not buy a bigger supercharger, so I am left with a max of 10-12 pounds, or so, of boost at high rpm. For this future motor, I will be building a larger runner intake manifold and porting the heads to give better high rpm flow, thus taking advantage of the high rpm boost the Vortech V9 makes (and is restricted by the small standard 1UZ lower intake runners). I will also go to a direct port, wet, 200+hp NOS system to reach the 650hp goal.
HarperRacingBangkok
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p.s., BTW, the Thai shops here put the larger 2JZ valves into the 1UZ heads and back-cut the ports and bowls to match. Very slick set-up! They flow very well!
XR8tt
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Yes with longer valves and Echo shim less buckets you can use 2J Brian Crower beehive valve springs and retainers.. Which are good for 9000 rpm on a 2J...
The titanium retainers are half the weight of std retainers..
You may also consider some of this before machining ???
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=22008
The titanium retainers are half the weight of std retainers..
You may also consider some of this before machining ???
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=22008
