10000rpm 1UZ

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fugly

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CAIRNS,QUEENSLAND,AUSTRALIA
I am looking at building a 1UZ that is capable of running at 10000rpm, to be used for burnout comps.
I am currently using a stock motor with a Eaton 112 supercharger which is limited to 7200rpm
What engine parts would you recommend?

Cheers
 
new everything and about $20K.....i'm really struggling with why?

Your current setup should lay down 250rwkw, which with the right gearing would chuck made burnouts and with a lot less stress on the engine. You want torque for burnouts, not power so much and you want to do it at as low an rpm as you can to make it easier on the engine.

my 2c anyways
 
Oh i understand burnouts :) maybe not the comps so much ;) but it's a spectacle, so i guess big rpm is 'more' and more is good?

Like i said though, an expensive exercise and will be high maintenance and expensive if it ever went boom.

The Celica is currently a bit sick...BHG. The rush is on to get it mobile again for the Snowy 1000m :eek:
 
more rpm is going to be BIG dollars and not last long! look at Ed's 1uz supra as a prime example of RPM's being painful!

I think you would get more effect with an exhaust exiting out the sides infront of the wheels and maybe some air (and maybe fuel) injected in the the exhaust to get some nice flames! People like flames!
 
I am looking at building a 1UZ that is capable of running at 10000rpm, to be used for burnout comps.
I am currently using a stock motor with a Eaton 112 supercharger which is limited to 7200rpm
What engine parts would you recommend?

Cheers

Stock heads,, stock valves, modual ford valve springs , seat pressure to 140+ lbs
Stock block, stock crank,
4340 conrods, starting from scat/eagle through to crower-paulter etc.
Get the converter, flywheel, rotating assemble all balanced..
Dry sump it if you got the $$$$$

No load on the motor really in a burn out, not like the finish line on the drags
Run it bit rich for extra cooling
Btw... Turbo or procharger it
 
Stock heads,, stock valves, modual ford valve springs , seat pressure to 140+ lbs
Stock block, stock crank,
4340 conrods, starting from scat/eagle through to crower-paulter etc.
Get the converter, flywheel, rotating assemble all balanced..
Dry sump it if you got the $$$$$

No load on the motor really in a burn out, not like the finish line on the drags
Run it bit rich for extra cooling
Btw... Turbo or procharger it

Thanks Ash,
You haven't mentioned pistons or camshafts.
I have a set of Argo rods & Ross pistons but was thinking would have to go for lighter better quality gear.
 
No point running 10,000rpm on stock heads Ash surely? Most of the valve trim would need a serious upgrade. And we haven't mentioned the intake yet....ITBS, manifolding, injector placement etc

I stand by by the $20k estimate.

Just remember, rpm induced stress increase expontentially. 20% more rpm is not just 20% more load (as if that wouldn't be tough enough)
 
No point running 10,000rpm on stock heads Ash surely? Most of the valve trim would need a serious upgrade. And we haven't mentioned the intake yet....ITBS, manifolding, injector placement etc

I stand by by the $20k estimate.

Just remember, rpm induced stress increase expontentially. 20% more rpm is not just 20% more load (as if that wouldn't be tough enough)

Never said port shape was stock;)
Heads now used on supercharged engine are stock castings with work.
Unless u get some billet one of aero ptc...ur stuck with stock :rolleyes:

Agree with rest of ur valve , intake comments :)
 
Thanks Ash,
You haven't mentioned pistons or camshafts.
I have a set of Argo rods & Ross pistons but was thinking would have to go for lighter better quality gear.

Yes I know..
Argo are heavy, and you with notices wear , an extra maintance..
Camshaft Probaly be custom, but as I said earlier , no real load on a burn out engine ...
 
Never said port shape was stock;)
Heads now used on supercharged engine are stock castings with work.
Unless u get some billet one of aero ptc...ur stuck with stock :rolleyes:

Agree with rest of ur valve , intake comments :)

Yup some serious port work will be needed, even more so for n/a.

Seeing it's going to be a built engine anyways, may as well start with the VVTi. Better heads, especially the port angle, stronger block, stronger crank.
 
Yup some serious port work will be needed, even more so for n/a.

Seeing it's going to be a built engine anyways, may as well start with the VVTi. Better heads, especially the port angle, stronger block, stronger crank.

Yer, have a few cranks crack.. Not fail but..:cool:
 
Yup some serious port work will be needed, even more so for n/a.

Seeing it's going to be a built engine anyways, may as well start with the VVTi. Better heads, especially the port angle, stronger block, stronger crank.

I got 100+ deg temp drop in less than 4 inches of intake runner length.
Once the air density increases, the port shape is not so top priority .
Dyno had full data logger , fuel flow meter etc

Engine parts ( castings ) not good enough really..
 
I got 100+ deg temp drop in less than 4 inches of intake runner length.
Once the air density increases, the port shape is not so top priority .
Dyno had full data logger , fuel flow meter etc

Engine parts ( castings ) not good enough really..
Is this with added fuel or water etc ..
Thats a big temp drop..
 
Is this with added fuel or water etc ..
Thats a big temp drop..

No, not extra fuel and you'll never ever catch me putting water into my engines.
Its called tune up.
Extra injecters is silly, and only required if your tuning is not close.
 
No, not extra fuel and you'll never ever catch me putting water into my engines.
Its called tune up.
Extra injectors is silly, and only required if your tuning is not close.

So it was added restriction on inlet tract which created the heat build up ?? Tune would more effect engine .. Blow through carb guys get away with high heat in the way blow through works ..Like adding injectors in blower hat etc..

Back on subject .. I think for the power and torque required to get it happening !! Forced induction will end up cheaper !! If put together and tuned properly it should be durable in light car..
Keep in mind your up against guys with blown 6.2's...Or larger..
 


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