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you could also look at PDA's for logging, rather than having a lappy in there

i use a Techedge, find it to be excellent...i believe the current versions have onboard logging. It also appears to read under 10:1, i remember seeing 9's when my MAP sensor had issues

my honda idles 680cc using altered fuel maps on the stock ECU, its not difficult. Lex, you could always use low impedence injectors with resistors if your ECU only has high impedence injector drivers

i've been thinking about a Toolex 180A model (a touch over $1k new)...been looking at auctions for a few months now and nothing suitable has come up. Would love a TIG but again i'm yet to come across a well-priced model yet :(

an argon/CO2 mix should be fine for mild or stainless work (some people use pure CO2 for mild)...pure argon for aluminium Not sure about wire brands...most should be perfectly fine to use

the 1jz CT-26 turbos with the centre's upgraded to steel wheels can produce 300rwkw if you are using race fuel, so thats a cheap option for now if you are going to be chasing major power later on

Rides is on discovery here in Australia as well (Tuesday nights, repeated on Sunday)...awesome show

i'm 26, have a house but still single current cars are a turbo accord and the project car is a HX Kingswood (which is naturally getting a 1uzfe)

yeh a 1uz will produce 250rwkw at 6psi...but using what turbo? 6psi from a CT26 is very different to 6psi from a GT42R for example. Its all about cfm not psi Anyway, for 300rwkw on a Soarer you need a pair of the CT26's...one isnt gonna cut it on a 1uzfe

was this using the GT42R? Very odd to have peak power at just 4200rpm, was the dyno operator backing it off early? The torque peak occurs at roughly the same time and is just a single peak, i would have expected a much broader torque curve than what you have there You should be making peak...

awesome :)

intercooling of some sort is a must for any turbo setup on an NA car IMO

i dont believe the rods are forged, but they will hold a lot of horsepower. I would say that excessive rpm will kill them much faster than torque and hp for 500rwhp i wouldnt change a thing, except maybe a decomp headgasket if you have to run a lot of boost. I plan on testing limits on this...

from what i understand there is an FD getting a 1uzfe here at the moment after it lunched its 13B...will be twin turbo as well. Will post more as i find more info

what tends to happen is that if you are on a dyno, you'll see at some point that adding more timing no longer increases the amount of power you are getting. So for a safe tune, then drop it back a couple of degrees from that and you should be OK

on the Honda i use 0.7 per psi retardation. But i am going to drop that to no change up to about 3psi, 0.25 degrees per psi to 5 psi and 0.6 up to 10psi. I would use the same on the 1uz 1 degree is a little on the high side IMO but is certainly safe Also, the SAFC has the effect of...

a few guys in the Honda world have bought the kinds of turbos yuo are talking about. On one of them, the compressor housing split in half at the seam. Turns out it was put together using some kind of glue or epoxy rather than the two cast pieces being properly joined. Other have had the bearings...

450hp at the wheels will not be a problem as long as the engine is in OK nick

well, a lot of people are swapping 1uz's into supras now when going for big hp and torque, so that should pretty much answer the question of whether to keep it :) From what i know of the 2jz, they are good to about 600rwhp (on aussie dynos) on stock internals before things can start...

much, much less...but with the gasket you may disturb the burn in the cylinder whereas the forgies shouldnt do so then again, new engines still cost less than these forgies even though they are an awesome price...actually i should see how much they are at trade :)