Building the ultimate N/A UZFE

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Tomasberkut

New Member
Messages
21
Location
Warsaw, Poland
Hello there!

This is my first topic over here, so i would like to say hello to all you guys!

Ok, first of all. I own a 97, 30000km (19000 miles), almost brand new 1UZFE wich i would like to build as a n/a engine. The engine will be installed in a very light weight space frame, double A suspension etc. (this aint the topic of the discusson :)), turbocharging would add weight (turbochargers, intercoolers, pipes etc, and were talking about a 500-600kg car) so its basicly excluded. It will run on a SA system so the management wont be any problem, the ignition will be run on EDIS 8, wasted spark system, due to the characteristics of the system i will be limited to about 8200-8500rpm (it cant be pushed higher due to the communicating protocol EDIS uses, the amout of time the engine rotates by 1 revolution would be shorter than 1 "word" between the SA and EDIS).
There are no space limitations, this means the exaust manifold, as well as the intake can be formed in any way i like.

Now, end of my jabbering.

The 1UZFE engine has a bore to stroke ratio of 1.94:1 wich means its a perfect candidate for a high revving engine. 81mm of bore is a decent amount of stroke, the piston acceleration values shouldnt be high like it would be in a longer stroke engine. Normally i work on Ford engines and theese (with a worse bore /stroke ratio, wimpy rods, 86mm stroke and MUCH heavyer pistons) will revv up to 8500rpm (DOHC 8V engine, balanced internals).

There were many rumours on how high can the UZ engine be revved. Some peapole say revving it past 7000 is asking for trouble, wich seems kind of low taking the 6500 stock rev limit and engine construction in to account. On the other hand 9000 rpm seems a little too high for an engine that has to stand some track day use for more than a few minutes. I would like to end the rumours going through a few topics over here and hear the facts: how high did you guys revv your engines. Not how high did you hear someone was revving.

If i was to judge i think 8000-8300rpm is archieveble. How would i prepare the engine:

Shot peening the rods for stress reliving and polishing them would increase the stress resistance of the rods as there wouldnt be any place where the crack could start forming. Chopping off the balancing weights off the con rods, making them lighter would be a proper idea.


The pistons in the 1UZFE do not use any coating on the sides if i remember from Lextreme's articles, adding some coating would reduce the friction by a large amount, this is not directly related to revv limiting but the higher the revs the bigger the friction and that means unnecesary heat and power losses. It would be possible to shave some weight of the pistons but is it worth it ? I dont think so.

Balancing the entire rotating assembly is of course the finishing touch to the bottom end. Of course certain modifications to the cranck would be needed, chamferring the oil holes for example. I would like my bearings to be properly oiled @ 8000rpm ;)

1UZFE/post 98 1UZFE/ 3UZFE. I have read that the 3UZFE rods are thinner, wich means they wieght less, but on the other hand can take less abuse, wich is better ? Im not exacly convinced the thinner rods will be better for a 8-8500rpm redline. Piston weight. The 3UZFE pistons have a larger diameter, normally this would mean the are bigger and heavyer. Is this a fact ? Or is the extra 0.3 litre worth it, limiting the revs on the other hand ?

The VVTI/non VVTI heads. Maybe i will start a war but im not exacly convinced that the VVTI high flowing head is absolutelly needed for a mild n/a engine. By utilising a non VVTI head with smaller ports we can archieve a high velocity port engine, wich should have more puff to a certain power level, after wich the flow would simply limit the engine. Mind you im thinking of archieving the 100hp/litre goal, this would mean 400 bhp out of a small port UZFE.

Valve springs, valves and buckets. Will the stock diameter valves be enough for 400bhp ? Is the 1mm bigger valve off a 2jzGE worth the hassle ? As far as i have read it can be used with a 2UZFE shimless bucket. Would it be possible to modify the stock bucket / shim to fit the longer supra valves ? As far as i know this would be possible and with the 2jzge springs it would be safe to revv the engine to 8xxx rpm.

Oil pump, water pump. Are there any issued with theese 2 ? There is no way i can do anything to the oil pump, this would me my limiter. What about the water pump. Does it need an underdrive pulley ? Do peapole experience any problems with cavitation ?

Any ideas about the con rod bolts ? Are they man enough for the job ?

The car will be used for some daily driving (street racing nights, with a Escort diesel '86 bodywork) and track day events. 5000km / year max.

Due to the nature of the country i live in getting aftermarket parts is a hassle, machining is very expensive so im limited to as much off the shelf parts and doing everything myself exept specialised operations like balancing etc.

Tomas
 
aftermarket rods, light weight pistons, balanced crank, improved oiling system.

on top of high compression, ported head, big cams...

no reason why the UZ engines should not make good power.
 
I don't think that underdrive pully is a possibility for the water pump, as it runs off the timing belt.

With the right cams, a 1UZ should be able to rev over 8k. Mine redlines at 7,300 although power starts to fall at about 6,500 because of cams.
 
Definitely,

Rods, high comp, porting and cams for a start. You will also need a decent exhaust and improve the inlet system by giving it as much cold air as possible. Knowing Warsaw there won't be shortage of that in winter.

Use all ARP studs/bolts with Cometic gaskets.

Balance well and use a quality aftermarket ECU.
 
ceramic coatings on the crank outer surface(the sufaces that dont touch bearins and the like),rods and bottom of the pistons to shed oil. ceramics on all the bearings, piston pins, piston skirts, and cylinder walls to reduce friction. heat reflecting ceramics on the piston faces, combustion chambers, all ports, intake manifold, and headers. you should be able to get at least 12:1 with that, maybe higher in Warsaw if you can get 98 octane fuel, and even higher than that if you are willing to put in a water injection system. 500 flywheel HP or greater can be achieved.
 
from what I have read a stock; completely unopened 1uz can produce roughly 310-320bhp so with upgraded pistons, rods, and decent port with a nice set of cams 100bhp/L is not too far out.
 
from what I have read a stock; completely unopened 1uz can produce roughly 310-320bhp so with upgraded pistons, rods, and decent port with a nice set of cams 100bhp/L is not too far out.


The company that does ITBs is close to that on stock longblock +cams and itbs. They are around 330whp iirc.
 
+15% on the intake side, +10% flow on the exaust side, custom cams, exaust and intake should yeld >400bhp according to Engine Analyzer Pro....

The question is: will the engine rev to 8000rpm.

If a lousy ford DOHC 8 valve engine can (meaty pistons, meaty, short, thick con rods, trackday use) a 1UZFE should....
 
Stupid question coming up.....

What makes an engine high compression...Tighter fitting rings? Larger cam lift? More efficient valves and seats? I've always been a little confused on the term high compression... Anyone?

The strongest N/A 1uz-fe motor I have read about produced 330whp...Serious cam lift, 8 TB's, ported heads, Headers with straight side exhaust, etc..and it roared...I saw the video...

Another problem I have is people mention high performance or forged pistons to make or create more power..hmmm...Unless there is a bore job on the block any same size pistons should create the same power, right?
 
compression ratio is the ratio of the cyl at maximum volume(piston at the lowest point) to minimum, piston at the top. The way to lower this is to increase the combustion chamber volume at tdc. This can be headgasket thickness, head chamber volume, or piston dish volume.
 
For most its just raising the static compression "higher" then stock. The stock 1UZ is said to have a static compression of "10:1" while a high compression motor will have somewhere in the neighborhood of 11:1 or 12:1 and higher compressions.

Now changing the cams will change the dynamic compression "DCR" most engines can only achive a maximum of about 8.5:1 DCR on pump gas. Now race engines can get away with high DCR because of the type of fuel used.

hope that helps


Stupid question coming up.....

What makes an engine high compression...Tighter fitting rings? Larger cam lift? More efficient valves and seats? I've always been a little confused on the term high compression... Anyone?

The strongest 1uz-fe motor I have read about produced 330whp...Serious cam lift, 8 TB's, ported heads, Headers with straight side exhaust, etc..and it roared...I saw the video...

Another problem I have is people mention high performance or forged pistons to make or create more power..hmmm...Unless there is a bore job on the block any same size pistons should create the same power, right?
 
Running high spec gear will not guarantee high hp. Im trying to proove that a stock small port 1UZFE with some proper work (porting, custom made exaust, intake, custom cams) with a small budget is good for making a really nice sporty car.

When i was simulating my engine i started with performance ford cams (im a Ford passionate) and found that 280+ duration cams on a 1UZFE is too much for what im aiming at. Lots of horsepower but no torque (440bhp with a proper intake and exaust on a stock flow 1uzfe). After fiddling with the cams i have found that relativelly low duration cams with a proper exaust and intake manifold was spot on for my taste. >300lbs/ft of torque from 4200 to 7400rpm and a 420bhp peak. That will make a 800kg car fly!

The static compression im aiming for is 11.5, i will archive it by modifying the combustion chambers and using a different head gasket.

I cant remember the stock 1uzfe cam lift, my calculations assume 8.9mm lift on the intake and 8.8mm on the exaust.
 
thomas, ive got a complete stock1uz file for EAP at home somewhere. PM me ur email add and I'll send it over on monday if you want to have a poke at it.
 
Running high spec gear will not guarantee high hp. Im trying to proove that a stock small port 1UZFE with some proper work (porting, custom made exaust, intake, custom cams) with a small budget is good for making a really nice sporty car.

When i was simulating my engine i started with performance ford cams (im a Ford passionate) and found that 280+ duration cams on a 1UZFE is too much for what im aiming at. Lots of horsepower but no torque (440bhp with a proper intake and exaust on a stock flow 1uzfe). After fiddling with the cams i have found that relativelly low duration cams with a proper exaust and intake manifold was spot on for my taste. >300lbs/ft of torque from 4200 to 7400rpm and a 420bhp peak. That will make a 800kg car fly!

The static compression im aiming for is 11.5, i will archive it by modifying the combustion chambers and using a different head gasket.

I cant remember the stock 1uzfe cam lift, my calculations assume 8.9mm lift on the intake and 8.8mm on the exaust.

If you raise the compression by skimming the head and using a thinner head gasket you will alter the cam timing and you will need cam gears.

Mike
 
The 'Heart' of this engine will be your Rod / Piston combo - and prep.

You want THE lightest Rod / Piston combination available for a weight combination / RPM ceiling / HP ceiling - use Teflon Buttons rather than wrist pin clips - Venolia has them.


Venolia makes the Lightest Forged High RPM Pistons available - been doing it for Top Fuel for eons - if the car is in the record books - they ran Venolia.

Talk with them about your ring package - 3 piece oil ring tension - L-dykes or ? and their 'weight' package / wrist pin weights - these people are A#1.

Rods: http://tinyurl.com/2rxxs9

Rod failure is mostly due to stretch - not compression - and it is the bolts that do the stretching.

I would not use Factory rods - sorry - cast is out / forged is in.

MANLEY has a Lite Weight 575HP / 8,500 RPM I-beam rod available - check the Thread I posted - there is a link - get the strongest Rod Bolts available.

Think of using the 'HONDA' size big end rods - they're available - you'll have a lighter reciprocating mass where it counts.

Pauter steel rods shanks can be drilled for pin / piston squirters.

Lighten / Balance everything hung on the crankshaft from pressure plate to balancer.

Harmonic Balancer should be 'Top Shelf' item.

Research NASCAR piston coatings / bearing coatings - they all use them and run 7,200 - 8,500 RPM for hours without blowing engines.

Check the NASCAR engine builders sites - they'll tell you who they use.

Run a harder rod bearing set if available.

Go thru the oiling system - find the restrictions - blueprint the pump clearances.

Use a large remote Oil Filter canister - not the spin on kind - you want the least amount of restriction - use large I.D. braided lines.

ARP stud everything.
 
Hi there. In reference to the question whether stock valves will be enough for 400 hp, its quite attainable with the proper head port design and cam lift. a standard 1uz has 300" cam lift but if you look around and find a properly designed cam spec with 400" or more and good duration 100hp/l will be very possible. good quality rod bolts and decent bearings will help if you wanted to use the stock bottom end too
 


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