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Building custom maifold for M112 supercharger on Gen 1 1UZ- Pointers and advise please

84pickup1uz

Fun Factor Garage - Canada Eh!
Ok guys..for those not following my build thread I am installing a 1st gen 1UZ motor in my 85 Pickup truck. I've decided it needs to be supercharged and I am using an Eaton 112. I'can't really afford to buy a manifold from down under so I am making one with the help of my local water jet company. Here is the 3D model of the top half of the manifold which will house the intercooler and get welded to the modifiied stock lower intake manifold. I hacked off the top of the runners and had it decked flat.

1579323868809.png

Anyone here have any advise for me? Pretty simple concept and I am sure I am not the first to do this.

The yellow layer is a composite spacer and I could make more of it from this material. I have hood clearance of 3" or 750mm. The stack is designed so I can interchagne the layer for the intercooler or even remove it.

What do you guys think?
 
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cribbj

"Supra" Moderator
Staff member
We had a member here long ago that did something similar with reusing the chopped lower manifold and his fabrications were functional and I believe he sold a few. Think his name was Jordy? Rod might remember. So what you're doing has sorta been done before and it worked, although Jordy didn't include space for the intercooler.

We also had a Belgian member who did a DIY manifold with an integrated intercooler, but IIRC he had sealing issues with the intercooler connections where they passed through the wall of the manifold.

I think you're onto a solid concept, but equalizing airflow to all the outlets might be an issue. Keep that in mind as you go forward, and good luck!
 

84pickup1uz

Fun Factor Garage - Canada Eh!
I figured its been done a lot before like this. Just wanted to make sure it was sucessful and to learn the "dos and don'ts" early so I can avoid problems.

Airflow is a concern I am trying to address. At this time I have reserved 1/2 to 3/4 bellow the intercooler for an air gap above the ports. I think it should be enough. The air gap above is handled by the cavity in the charger for the bypass valve on the 112.

Experimenting a little with the composite layer as I want the intercooler tanks to sit on top of it. The parts hanging inside are exadurated at this point as I am still waiting for the core to show up to finalize the intercooler dimensions. I have some of this material already and adding a insulator can't hurt in this case to limit the heat soak into the intercooler and charger.

I have a small lathe and it has a milling attachement. My plans for the coolant lines are well engineered I think although still a concern primarily for vibration. The core is a dual pass rad core so I plan to seperate the lower and upper tubes and have both in and out water lines on the back end of the manifold were I have more space to work. The rear tank will have a thicker plate welded into it and have a gasket and mounting bolts to clamo it to the back wall of the manifold. there will be tabs with some short screws to mount the front tank designed to allow for some expansion and the ends of the core will sit on top of the composite layer.

Other then the lower two plates the whole thing will bolt together so I can experiment with the intercooler layer if I need to or even remove it.
 
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Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
John,

Jordyskiboat was the Member's name and he lived in Frankston, a Melbourne suburb.

He fabricated and entire new top half manifold and used the lower runners unmodified.

I built a manifold for an M112 off a Ford F150 with its intercooler but sold it off before finishing it. This required relocating the starter to under the engine. made changing it easier:)

I'm not in favour of your idea of machining part way through the runners. As you have room to spare do as Jordy did and keep the lower plenum.

I think the airflow will be all over the shop with your method as the cross-section of each milled runner will be slightly different from the one next door and mixtures could be all over the shop.

Whilst the Thread appears to have lost its photographs at least it makes good reading. Perhaps Google can help. https://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php?threads/fabricating-for-supercharger.1179/

Keep us posted.
 

Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
John,

Jordyskiboat was the Member's name and he lived in Frankston, a Melbourne suburb.

From memory he was Joel Jordan (hence the Jordy moniker).

He fabricated and entire new top half manifold and used the lower runners unmodified.

I built a manifold for an M112 off a Ford F150 with its intercooler but sold it off before finishing it. This required relocating the starter to under the engine. made changing it easier:)

I'm not in favour of your idea of machining part way through the runners. As you have room to spare do as Jordy did and keep the lower plenum.

I think the airflow will be all over the shop with your method as the cross-section of each milled runner will be slightly different from the one next door and mixtures could be all over the shop.

Whilst the Thread appears to have lost its photographs at least it makes good reading. Perhaps Google can help. https://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php?threads/fabricating-for-supercharger.1179/

Keep us posted.
 

84pickup1uz

Fun Factor Garage - Canada Eh!
To be clear I am not cutting through the lower as much as removing the top inch or so of the runners where they turn up to the stock upper location. The ports look like an unusual shape but they are all the exact same surface area and length since the manifold is a mirror image from front to back and side to side. Doing it this way should not make it flow any more unbalanced then it did stock in my opinion.

The main issue i am facing is that the front port is right up against the front of the manifold and when I add the tank to the end of the intercooler the flow path to that port is a little rough. If I didn't have the water bridge to deal with I could make it flow perfect.

I do have a limit for total height because even in the truck the hood is only 2 1/2 inches from the top of the blower pully when I mount the supercharger as low as I could. If it was not for the need for an intercooler I would just work on the stock lower with no mods but I need the 1 1/2 of realistate the runner turn ups take for the intercooler.

Here is a picture of the prepared lower:


1579449792672.png

Looking at pictures of the Bullet manifold and the new Elate manifold I see the ports are literally 1/2 long if that. Basically its a big square box. I guess thats not blocking the flow but its not directing it much either and without boost it would really sacrifiace the torque curve. With boost I guess its not the important anymore to have port length.

1579453978019.png

Jodyskiboat actually cut the centre completely out of the manifold which I could still do if i need to but a lot more welding required and a lof more chance of warping things. Here is his....I think:

1579452771899.png




If I did that it might look more like this one only with a interooler box on top instead of being welded over like this one which looks to be setup for a lightning blower of maybe a SVO 3.8 blower ??? Is this picuture of yours Zuffen?

1579451621021.png

Not sure I would do it this way either but it does show how the lower box could be made.

I was experimenting with my Tig on the cast last night (scrap pieces) It is actually pretty clean aluminum and welds pretty easy. I might look at modifying the waterbridge and changing my design a bit to make a little more room for my interooler tank and pull the front of the manifold foward a bit more. or I could just take the leap and do it like everyone else and cut the ports closer to the heads and build a box .
 
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Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
None of those manifolds are mine. Pretty sure the top one is Jordy's

My manifold used the F150 manifold with the runners cut off and replaced by the 1UZ runners.

The lower Ford manifold sat almost on the valley floor, hence the started moved home.

The Ford intercooler and supercharged were totally stock.

Someone made me an offer that was too good so I sold it and put together a Richardson set up with external intercooler.
 

84pickup1uz

Fun Factor Garage - Canada Eh!
Still wotking on this. Ported the factory lower to join all the ports together into one opening. Working with waterjet guy to cut out all the pieces. Looks like it will work real good, Intercooler is roughly made. Just needs welding of the end tanks and fittings. More pictures soon.
 

84pickup1uz

Fun Factor Garage - Canada Eh!
Ok all my drafting is done and the local waterjet guy has cut out all my aluminum pieces. It looks great!

There is five layers. The first plate will weld onto the manifold. The rest just bolt together

1582950276740.png
I made the layers so I could bolt it on without the intercooler by removing one layer. This is how it looks without the intercooler installed. you can also see I've ported the lower factory manifold to join all the front and rear ports together. I got a little carried away in two places and broke through but thats easily fixed with the tig welder. Fuel rails are really tight to the manifold but they fit!

1582950340148.png
Here the same shot with the intercooler set in place. Still need to weld the tanks onto the core but it all fits nicely. Note the tapered head screws used to bolt everything together. A little silcone and it will be air tight. The intercooler has a flat end cap on the rear tank that bolts to the back of the manifold to provide a seal and there is two ports to be welded onto the back of the manifold to provide the coolant in and out. The front of the core will have two pins welded to ther core frame that will engage in holes I drill from the inside at the seam of the to layers so when I split the layers there will be half the hole on either side. The pins will get sandwiched in between. This way the cooler can expand without issues and there is no holes to the outside as the hole sill only be drills part way through.

1582950372941.png

Here it is with the blower sitting on top. Checked the hood for clearance. its tight but it fits! Left the flange square instead of shaping it to the profile of the blower. Also did not drill the holes yet so I can fine tune the alignment of the belt. Front fuel line could be made to work but I think I will make some AN style hoses so it looks pretty! Looking forward to cleaning tha prepping the motor now.

1582951292962.png1582951315357.png

Time to pull the motor out and start welding thing together. I am eliminating the fan idler alltogether so the blower will drive straight of the crank pully on the drivers side. Reclocked the tensioner so it faces the crank pully and also provides a little more tension. By doinf so the belt is forced over farther on the crank so it has more coverage to make up for the straight run to the blower on the other side. this will all make sense shortly when I get the blower bolted down and can get a proper length belt to install.
 

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cribbj

"Supra" Moderator
Staff member
Great progress & pics. Looks like it's really coming together! So good to see new projects taking shape with these UZ motors.
 

Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Just be aware if the idler is on the inside of the belt you could get orbiting.

This is where the belt is forced away from all the pulleys by centrifugal force.

If the idler is outside the belt it is pushing the belt in and stops the orbiting.

On my set up the belt went around an S shape idler system to stop the problem.

Certainly your effort looks good and hopefully will give you everything you want from it.

Plus you can tell people "I built it" something to be proud of.
 

84pickup1uz

Fun Factor Garage - Canada Eh!
The tentioner is still on the outside. I just have it spung so it has the arm on the right insead of the left of the pivot point which moved the pully closer to the centre line of the crank.
 

Hog Head

New Member
1UZ intake manifolds are available now in Thailand to fit the Eaton M112 blower, with VVTI and 3UZ ones on the way.
About 600 USD
I am waiting for the 3UZ ones and will report back when I have one in my hands
 
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