No crank randomly 1UZ Swapped Cressida

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88sogreatv8

Member
I have a 1uz swapped cressida. The issue i have is it will not crank like the starter isnt getting enough juice. It had the original starter, so i replaced it ( autozone duralast) still had the issues. I thought it was a parasitic draw but it is not pulling any excessive amps when off. I also thought it was the aftermarket alarm i installed, but after swapping a new one still the same issue.

I am starting to think it is the main power wire to the starter. all my grounds check out. I can put a charger on the battery at 220 amp and it seems to be good. I think my next step is to upgrade the power wire from the battery to the starter. Also the battery is very new like 3 months new.

Any advice would be much appreciated
 
If the starter is not cranking the engine at all, you may not be getting power to the solenoid.
Solenoid Power come from the ignition switch start contacts.
Aassuming the starter does crank but slowly or clicks:- the battery is good (no load voltage @ the battery should be ~12.5V or more (while cranking should not drop below 11V), lead / terminal connections at the battery are good.
The power circuit to the started is a very simple one with a big fat power lead from the +ve side of the battery and ground through the engine block via a fat -ve lead to the negative side of the battery. So if the starter is cranking slowly or struggling, it sounds like you have a voltage drop either in the +ve lead or the ground (-ve) lead. The ground lead will be easiest to get to, so remove and inspect the crimps and look for breaks. If its in the +ve side them you're gunna have to lift the intake to get to the starter end.
 
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If the starter is not cranking the engine at all, you may not be getting power to the solenoid.
Solenoid Power come from the ignition switch start contacts.
Aassuming the starter does crank but slowly or clicks:- the battery is good (no load voltage @ the battery should be ~12.5V or more (while cranking should not drop below 11V), lead / terminal connections at the battery are good.
The power circuit to the started is a very simple one with a big fat power lead from the +ve side of the battery and ground through the engine block via a fat -ve lead to the negative side of the battery. So if the starter is cranking slowly or struggling, it sounds like you have a voltage drop either in the +ve lead or the ground (-ve) lead. The ground lead will be easiest to get to, so remove and inspect the crimps and look for breaks. If its in the +ve side them you're gunna have to lift the intake to get to the starter end.
When You say +- VE lead do you mean at the starter ? I have this issue normally if i dont drive the vehicle. but other times it seems random. It happnened the other day , and i put a battery charger on it turned it to 220 amp and it fired right up. If it was a neutral safety issue or a security issue i dont think it would click or do anything, but it clicks like not enough juice to turn the starter.
 
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update. I pulled the main starter wire at the battery cleaned it very well and bolted it back up. So far it starts every time . Lets see what happens over the next few days
 
Cleaned the lead. I thought it was fixed . I drove it into my shop today. shut it off and went to start it maybe in a 60 second window , and just clicks. Took several turns of the key to get it to crank.
 


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