No Crank issues either operating temp or real cold

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Hi Folks , 88 Cressida Guy again with another issue on this forever project
So recently the Cressida had devolved a random no crank, just a click click like the Bendix isn't extending . Since the starter was original to the engine from 95' i decided to just replaced it. I thought is was fixed ,but i was wrong.

The issue usually happens either if the car is really cold or after driving a while and its pretty warmed up. if i keep turning the key over and over it does eventually start. Im not sure what to do other than tap into the s wire and rig a momentary switch for testing when it acts up. I want to believe the Ignition switch is the problem as I have not changed anything in the way the harness is wired.

Any help from the community would be much appreciated . I really dont want to pull the intake again :mad:o_O
 
The starter circuit is a very simple one. If you're hearing the solenoid click, you have enough power to operate the solenoid but your battery and cables can't deliver the current needed by the starter to crank the engine.
Things to check:- 1) Battery is healthy. Measure the battery voltage with a DVM. If it drops below 10.5V when cranking, Charge it or turf it.
2) inspect the battery terminals & connections for corrosion and that they make good electrical contact with the battery.
3) inspect the heavy ground and heavy +ve cables to make sure they have good connections at they respective lugs (+ve at the starter and ground at the engine block) If you have any other connections in series with these cables they should be inspected too) A loose or resistive connection will create a significant voltage drop when pulling current.
Good luck
 
The starter circuit is a very simple one. If you're hearing the solenoid click, you have enough power to operate the solenoid but your battery and cables can't deliver the current needed by the starter to crank the engine.
Things to check:- 1) Battery is healthy. Measure the battery voltage with a DVM. If it drops below 10.5V when cranking, Charge it or turf it.
2) inspect the battery terminals & connections for corrosion and that they make good electrical contact with the battery.
3) inspect the heavy ground and heavy +ve cables to make sure they have good connections at they respective lugs (+ve at the starter and ground at the engine block) If you have any other connections in series with these cables they should be inspected too) A loose or resistive connection will create a significant voltage drop when pulling current.
Good luck
Thank you Ivan , I will look into this and get back with you
 
Thank you Ivan , I will look into this and get back with you
So update. The bypass switch did not work still had the no crank issue even with the ignition bypass.
I feel so stupid lol . Last week couldnt get it to start in my garage, so i put my battery charger on it and immediately it fired up!!
I grabbed a new battery and havnt had a issue since. Its crazy i guess i had a junk battery. It wasnt that old 11/22 was when it was made.
 
The starter circuit is a very simple one. If you're hearing the solenoid click, you have enough power to operate the solenoid but your battery and cables can't deliver the current needed by the starter to crank the engine.
Things to check:- 1) Battery is healthy. Measure the battery voltage with a DVM. If it drops below 10.5V when cranking, Charge it or turf it.
2) inspect the battery terminals & connections for corrosion and that they make good electrical contact with the battery.
3) inspect the heavy ground and heavy +ve cables to make sure they have good connections at they respective lugs (+ve at the starter and ground at the engine block) If you have any other connections in series with these cables they should be inspected too) A loose or resistive connection will create a significant voltage drop when pulling current.
Good luck
Ivan . It did it again to me this morning. The new battery was working great for 3 weeks now untill this morning. It just clicked. After a 3 second pause it fired up. I dont know why im killing batterys. The power connection to the the starter has great contact at the battery , and as far as i see there are no breaks. It is the original 1uz power lead. WHAT do you suggest i do now?
 
Parasitic current draw.
Something is drawing current when the vehicle is switched off and consuming the voltage.
There are plenty of vids on youtube showing how to perform the test and identify the circuit with the issue.

Either that, or you keep leaving the door ajar.
 
Parasitic current draw.
Something is drawing current when the vehicle is switched off and consuming the voltage.
There are plenty of vids on youtube showing how to perform the test and identify the circuit with the issue.

Either that, or you keep leaving the door ajar.
P Bateman . American Psycho? Nice...

Anyway, so i dont think the battery is draining i did a battery test this morning and CCA's Voltage .. its all there
Charging system looks good 13.84 V Cranking system is normal 11.48 V. Im almost convinced there is a grounding issue or a power issue from the battery. I feel like this issue didn't start happening until i installed a distribution block on the power side for all the accessories
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