Keeping it cool

[jcclures]

I would also be interested in the gauge sideshow, do you know what size the face is as my other gauges are 50mm.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah that has been one of my theory's. The overflow bottle is quite small, and the water level definately rises a fair bit. I'm so lacking room now, but I might investigate a bigger o'flow bottle, good call.

 

[Max Hardcore]

Is the bleed hole the large bolt (without putting a spanner on it) a size 14mm or so just ontop of the upper radiator hose outlet case? i can hear air moving around my heater on occasions and am having funny heating problems at the moment. I usually run at 86deg C but lately it goes to around 92deg C driving. without the fan coming on... using the microtech. I removed the seal from the back of the bonnet also but noticed a lot of fumes coming into the car from the engine bay as the pickup is just after the bonnet below the window so i put it back on.

 

[jcclures]

Yes I would bleed the air, if any from under that bolt as the air is around the thermostat so it may not be working properly. It also might help to put the nose of the vehicle uphill and turn on the heater when you do this as the air can get locked at the back of the motor. I always do this when I refill my radiator.

 

[-Nemesis-]

What vehicle is that in Max Hardcore? Looks like a 'Lux of some sort, though the fuse box is different to mine etc...

What radiator is that? It looks custom........

It's a shame you had to plumb the intake like that, as the pipe would pick up alot of heat from the radiator, and warm your air a little. Might make it lose a few kW's or so, but nothing major....

But yeah, that bolt above the thermostat housing (17mm) is the bleed point.

 

[deankdx]

But yeah, that bolt above the thermostat housing (17mm) is the bleed point.

would it be a good thing to make a hose come from that point and take it to a header tank fitted in the highest point available in the engine bay? say 1/4 inch inside diameter hose?

i think in My falcon i am going to have to do something like that as the radiator is much lower Now.

 

[-Nemesis-]

I'm not sure, I suppose at least youknow that if that's the highest point, that's the place to bleed it. My radiator is marginally higher than the bleed point, but I still had an air pocket

 

[sideshow]

the gauge is size of a rectanlge sort of like a small turbo timer unit

ill try get pic tonight

to bleed the system make sure engine is not running

if u remove that 17mm bolt at top to bleed water will piss out

u need to just remove bolt while engine is cold and not runnin

then fill rad with water till it overflows from bolt hole then put bolt back

hey max did u fix yr alternator

 

[-Nemesis-]

A quick Q Sidey: Twisty was telling me that on his motor there's a temp sender on the water bridge specifically for some A/C cutout switch or something. Do you know anything about this? Or remember if it's there whether you wired it up on mine?

I'm thinking (I bought a new guage and temp sender) that if it's there but useless, i'll put the new temp sender in it's place. That way I can keep the factory gauge working just for appearance sakes (I don't really want a dead gauge in the dash.) Plus it will be interesting to compare the two gauges movement.

The other otpion, though less desired, is to drill a new hole in the bridge and tap the temp sender into it. That is to keep both senders of course.

 

[sideshow]

water bridge
where is that
im sure the 1uz doesnt have an a/c temp sender

i just remove factory sender and fit one to match gauge but matchin threads might be a prob

on hiluxs the 1uz temp sender works ok with the hilux dash

 

[-Nemesis-]

The temp sender is on the water bridge, which is at the front of the engine. The thermostat housing is on this. Twisty was told there is another one there, but on his motor it's not used. My cars at home so i'll have a check in the morning.

My Hilux temp guage works fine, apart from it's inaccuracies mentioned here.

I don't think the thread should matter, i'm pretty sure the 1/8th gass thread is pretty universal.

I have bought an aftermarket guage (I would have got one off you but too late... doh) and temp sender. If possible I want to keep the Toyota temp gauge active for appearance sakes.

 

[sideshow]

ok1uzs have a green plug 2 wires this is coolant temp
also a brown plug 2 wires this is cold start injetor timer
then single plug yellow wire green trace this is temp gauge

havnt really looked for others
maybe the ls or sc have them but i know crowns dont

i only really know of the 7mges havin temp sender for a/c this is uaually a sender to stop a/c workin when gettin to hot

or some early toyota engines have a temp sender for the overdrive

 

[-Nemesis-]

Yeah it was Scott at Venom that told him. He said it was to stop the A/C when the engine gets hot like you said. Twisty and I have the same engine, so hopefully it's there and I can use that bung for my new temp sender. Fingers crossed.

 

[Max Hardcore]

Yep its a custom made by MrEnforcer in sydney awsome work highly recommend him...
Sideshow did i just put 2 and 2 together, you did the wiring on my truck?
Thanks heaps for helping me over the phone and diagnosing it in less than 5 minutes, saved me heaps my local elec had it for an hour and then said they needed it all day! $$$ I thought it was the alt but they were trying to screw me... I got a second hand one for a $100 it works...

Has anyone thought of running a second radiator down the back under the tray with a thermo and plumbed back into the radiator?

Turned the bolt with the engine hot not running a little air then fluid come out under pressure with no problems, wouldnt go much more than cracking it but..
Will put the heater on next time on a hill to see if there is any hiding again.

 

[twisty_toy94]

As Nem's has said....I'm sure on mine there is a sensor with a orange(brownish) plug that isn't hooked up to my engine loom....I remember asking Scott about it when I first picked up my original motor (18months ago) and I'm pretty sure he mentioned it was for the AC Cut-out....

I haven't installed my loom on the new motor yet so I cant double check anything at the moment....but I'll be able to confirm it this weekend and will post some pics.....

 

[sideshow]

i find so many auto elects scared to check stuff

its all basic priciples and they are dumb or to lazy

all late model toyota alternators work the same

mat is makin a radiator for me next week so i hope it helps my heatin prob

 

[-Nemesis-]

Another question Sidey you might be able to shed light on; On the aftermarket temp gauge I bought, the wiring diagram is extremely simple. However it says to use '2 conductor' 18g wire. I know what the 18g is, but what the hell's 2 conductor? So I can't use just normal auto wire?

 

[Guts]

Has anyone thought of running a second radiator down the back under the tray with a thermo and plumbed back into the radiator?

In the next few months I will be putting either a second hilux radiator behind my cab or I will just go with an 80series radiator behind the cab.

 

[jcclures]

Max is you radiator a conventional one or a cross flow, the reason I am asking it looks like a conventional type (up and down cores) and it appears to have the bottom hose going to the top tank, that would be unusual.

 

[Max Hardcore]

What is the factory thermostate temp for the 1uz, and what temp is best to run the motor at? im just trying to set up the temp for the fans to come on? does 92 Deg C sound right?