scotturnot
Member
- Messages
- 954
- Location
- central US
Where exactly should they be sealed? I am installing Kelfords and dont want this to happen.
Finally running (sort of)!
- Thread starter Zuffen
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Where exactly should they be sealed? I am installing Kelfords and dont want this to happen.
Not so 'Quik' then eh
Truely Rod, the autronic base map would run anything....i can try and send you mine tune even if you like to get you going?
there is a table in there where you tick the part no. of your injector if it has it....if not then there is a calc table to set injector flow in cc/min. If a computer illiterate like me can do it, i'm sure you can
Good info on the cams. I know with my old 18RGs i played with i would remove the ball bearing and drill and tap the cam ends for a grub screw. At high rpm the cams can flex enough to dislodge anything that is press fit so that's why kelford's do that....like you say, they should give you a heads up so you can use sealant.
The idle speed control was connected to #5 cylinder injector which gave me grief when engine was cold due to over fueling..Didn't do my ISC any good either..
So OFF to Haltech tuner [Hitman]
Injectors, ignition was re wired with DIS ignition [4 coils,wasted spark] $1200 and 4 days work wella 483 rwkw, engine started and idled as it should!!.. To think I drove around for 18 months like that! Even the odd club dyno comp, day at wakefield Pk..Then had with 372 RWKW..
Injectors #5 was burnt out [don't know why!!Lol] was injected 100 % time.. SO $1k for a new set of 85Lb injectors!!!
I didn't save one cent by going to a so called expert.. Stay away from The Sparky.. Infact RUN... FAST !!!
If it has a rising rate fuel reg ? This can cause running issues as its outside ECU, leaving tune unstable..
If its NOT tuned on load [road or dyno] it is nearly imposable to tune especially without wide band 02 sensor...
If it wasn't an aftermarket block, forged assembly it may have been a big grenade..
Umm?? Running this rich is no good for ring bedding in either..
Where exactly should they be sealed? I am installing Kelfords and dont want this to happen.
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
The retaining bolt hole in the front of the cam should be sealed from the hollow shaft of the cam.
From what I understand hollow cams usually have a ball bearing pressed into the hole to seal it.
I would use Loctite pipe sealant (which we did) as I'm using it to block the idle up valve on the power steering pump and it will run at 20 times the pressure of the engine. It seems to be working well. I tapped and inserted a bolt in the hole.
At least if you have the leak it's an easy fix.
From what I understand hollow cams usually have a ball bearing pressed into the hole to seal it.
I would use Loctite pipe sealant (which we did) as I'm using it to block the idle up valve on the power steering pump and it will run at 20 times the pressure of the engine. It seems to be working well. I tapped and inserted a bolt in the hole.
At least if you have the leak it's an easy fix.
JustenGT8
New Member
- Messages
- 2,432
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
Not so 'Quik' then eh
Truely Rod, the autronic base map would run anything....i can try and send you mine tune even if you like to get you going?
there is a table in there where you tick the part no. of your injector if it has it....if not then there is a calc table to set injector flow in cc/min. If a computer illiterate like me can do it, i'm sure you can
Good info on the cams. I know with my old 18RGs i played with i would remove the ball bearing and drill and tap the cam ends for a grub screw. At high rpm the cams can flex enough to dislodge anything that is press fit so that's why kelford's do that....like you say, they should give you a heads up so you can use sealant.
scotturnot
Member
- Messages
- 954
- Location
- central US
I emailed Kevin at Kelford about the cams and he said.
"The front and rear of the cams have plugs to keep the oil in there"
I will look at mine tonight to see if they are plugged, maybe yours were left out by accident?
"The front and rear of the cams have plugs to keep the oil in there"
I will look at mine tonight to see if they are plugged, maybe yours were left out by accident?
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Justen,
Thanks for the offer.
I have Steve from Quickfit coming tomorrow to try and turn the fuel down enough so it will start and keep running.
I have it booked into the dyno shop on Tuesday so hopefully by the end of the week I will be driving it. Just in time for double demeit points over Christmas!
Errol from Richardson Motorsport also offered a map but I don't have any interest in playing with the ECU. I'm paying people to do it right as I figure if it costs $1,000.00 it is a fraction of the cost of my engine. As an old insurance guy I look at things from the insurance perspective.
I plan on dropping Kelfods and email and see what they have to say.
So far it's cost me a a weeks delay and $500.00
Thanks for the offer.
I have Steve from Quickfit coming tomorrow to try and turn the fuel down enough so it will start and keep running.
I have it booked into the dyno shop on Tuesday so hopefully by the end of the week I will be driving it. Just in time for double demeit points over Christmas!
Errol from Richardson Motorsport also offered a map but I don't have any interest in playing with the ECU. I'm paying people to do it right as I figure if it costs $1,000.00 it is a fraction of the cost of my engine. As an old insurance guy I look at things from the insurance perspective.
I plan on dropping Kelfods and email and see what they have to say.
So far it's cost me a a weeks delay and $500.00
XR8tt
Active Member
- Messages
- 2,758
- Location
- Sydney Australia
With that ECU and engine yes!!
http://www.insightmotorsports.com.au/
Tuners over mechanics imo for this sort of work..
http://www.insightmotorsports.com.au/
Tuners over mechanics imo for this sort of work..
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Progress.
It now starts and runs for a few minutes.
At least I'll be able to load it on the trailer to take it to the dyno.
I'm using a guy out west who has good reputation.
We (Quickfit & I) spent 2 hours working on it today.
The fuel load is now less than 30% of the start program. At least it will be a little more economical!
The car will run up to around 2,000rpm then backfire thru the manifold and it then dies.
I think Quickfit have moved way outside their field of expertise.
I'm on my 4th set of spark plugs and I've changed them over 20 times in the last 3 weeks. I'm getting quicker (and sick of it) and now leave all the covers off it to speed up the changes. The few times I've driven it I take a set of plugs and tools with me.
Hopefully by the end of next week it will be all good.
It now starts and runs for a few minutes.
At least I'll be able to load it on the trailer to take it to the dyno.
I'm using a guy out west who has good reputation.
We (Quickfit & I) spent 2 hours working on it today.
The fuel load is now less than 30% of the start program. At least it will be a little more economical!
The car will run up to around 2,000rpm then backfire thru the manifold and it then dies.
I think Quickfit have moved way outside their field of expertise.
I'm on my 4th set of spark plugs and I've changed them over 20 times in the last 3 weeks. I'm getting quicker (and sick of it) and now leave all the covers off it to speed up the changes. The few times I've driven it I take a set of plugs and tools with me.
Hopefully by the end of next week it will be all good.
JustenGT8
New Member
- Messages
- 2,432
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
Could be alot of things Rod but as a start does the map tracer move OK around the load table? sounds like it could be a MAP signal problem?
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Justen,
According to the Muppet using the computer all indicators are correct. All sensors are showing the expected outputs and in the right sequence. That assumes he would know!
I figure it will run long enough to get on and off the trailer than onto the rollers and hopefully they'll sort it out.
According to the Muppet using the computer all indicators are correct. All sensors are showing the expected outputs and in the right sequence. That assumes he would know!
I figure it will run long enough to get on and off the trailer than onto the rollers and hopefully they'll sort it out.
JustenGT8
New Member
- Messages
- 2,432
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
Good luck mate....i hate fault finding
XR8tt
Active Member
- Messages
- 2,758
- Location
- Sydney Australia
I had a so called ECU expert fit, tune my E11v2 Haltech ..Good luck mate....i hate fault finding
The idle speed control was connected to #5 cylinder injector which gave me grief when engine was cold due to over fueling..Didn't do my ISC any good either..
So OFF to Haltech tuner [Hitman]
Injectors, ignition was re wired with DIS ignition [4 coils,wasted spark] $1200 and 4 days work wella 483 rwkw, engine started and idled as it should!!.. To think I drove around for 18 months like that! Even the odd club dyno comp, day at wakefield Pk..Then had with 372 RWKW..
Injectors #5 was burnt out [don't know why!!Lol] was injected 100 % time.. SO $1k for a new set of 85Lb injectors!!!
I didn't save one cent by going to a so called expert.. Stay away from The Sparky.. Infact RUN... FAST !!!
If it has a rising rate fuel reg ? This can cause running issues as its outside ECU, leaving tune unstable..
If its NOT tuned on load [road or dyno] it is nearly imposable to tune especially without wide band 02 sensor...
If it wasn't an aftermarket block, forged assembly it may have been a big grenade..
Umm?? Running this rich is no good for ring bedding in either..
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Cobber,
Magnafuel 1:1
Yes I will post up once it's going.
Magnafuel 1:1
Yes I will post up once it's going.
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
A quick update.
The car didn't make the rollers today. That didn't surprise me.
Last night I started asking some difficult questions.
The upshot was I took the car to the engine builder and worked on it (me not him) for 10 hours.
I stripped the front of the engine (again) and removed an exhaust cam, after trying to set the cams we found a sheered drive pin on the right hand inlet cam. The normal t/b side of the engine.
What was happening was the distributer was firing as it should but the valves were wherever they wanted to be.
The sheered pin necessitated drilling the cam gear and cam to insert a new drive pin. The broken drive pin was drilled and tapped for extraction but we (the engine builder not me) snapped the tap in the hole and we couldn't drill it out.
It now starts and idles well but wont rev as the fuel map has been turned to ultra low as the engine was pumping most of 4 cylinders worth of fuel out the exhausts.
Don't ask who's at fault as I no longer care.
I was tempted to burn it a few times during the day.
I worked out in the sun with the vehicle was on a car trailer all day. This meant the engine bay was over 6' above the ground and it was around 28degrees C in the sun. I'm burnt, dehydrated and thoroughly over it all.
Hopefully this will see it turn the corner and start running as it should.
During reassembly I (yep I did it) damaged a cam cover gasket so it now has a killer oil leak to sort out.
Oh the joys of modified vehicles!
I'm very tempted to go back to the standard 1UZ and at least be able to drive the vehicle. I wonder how an LS1 or later would go. At least it would fit better.
Even my wife is sympathising with me and she has no time for this waste of money!!!!!
The car didn't make the rollers today. That didn't surprise me.
Last night I started asking some difficult questions.
The upshot was I took the car to the engine builder and worked on it (me not him) for 10 hours.
I stripped the front of the engine (again) and removed an exhaust cam, after trying to set the cams we found a sheered drive pin on the right hand inlet cam. The normal t/b side of the engine.
What was happening was the distributer was firing as it should but the valves were wherever they wanted to be.
The sheered pin necessitated drilling the cam gear and cam to insert a new drive pin. The broken drive pin was drilled and tapped for extraction but we (the engine builder not me) snapped the tap in the hole and we couldn't drill it out.
It now starts and idles well but wont rev as the fuel map has been turned to ultra low as the engine was pumping most of 4 cylinders worth of fuel out the exhausts.
Don't ask who's at fault as I no longer care.
I was tempted to burn it a few times during the day.
I worked out in the sun with the vehicle was on a car trailer all day. This meant the engine bay was over 6' above the ground and it was around 28degrees C in the sun. I'm burnt, dehydrated and thoroughly over it all.
Hopefully this will see it turn the corner and start running as it should.
During reassembly I (yep I did it) damaged a cam cover gasket so it now has a killer oil leak to sort out.
Oh the joys of modified vehicles!
I'm very tempted to go back to the standard 1UZ and at least be able to drive the vehicle. I wonder how an LS1 or later would go. At least it would fit better.
Even my wife is sympathising with me and she has no time for this waste of money!!!!!
scotturnot
Member
- Messages
- 954
- Location
- central US
Wow, That is a reall let down. Dont give up now, you are so close. soo is the fuel going out the tail pipes a indicator that she is still out of time?
What do you think caused the pin to shear in the first place?
What do you think caused the pin to shear in the first place?
- Messages
- 4,790
- Location
- Houston, TX
Ouch.....I feel your pain Rod, and have been sorely tempted to set the b*tch on fire and walk away several times, too.
An engine dyno does make the shakedown process much easier - are there any nearby that you could use?
Interested to hear more about the sheared drive pin. What are your cam and valve spring specs again?
Cheer up, you could have nothing better to moan about than your golf game!
An engine dyno does make the shakedown process much easier - are there any nearby that you could use?
Interested to hear more about the sheared drive pin. What are your cam and valve spring specs again?
Cheer up, you could have nothing better to moan about than your golf game!
JustenGT8
New Member
- Messages
- 2,432
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
So close now Rod, hang in there and all the dramas will be forgotten the first time all four wheels dissolve in clouds of tyre smoke
I worked on mine for 2 months straight, to the point where my wife was wondering if i still lived at home ....all worth it now though
I worked on mine for 2 months straight, to the point where my wife was wondering if i still lived at home
....all worth it now though 
I know how you feel Rod. Twice I have installed the 8 ITB's and twice I have put the standard plenum back on.
I am running it standard until the new year and then give the lot to the tuner to sort out. He is is currently on holidays and won't be back til late Jan.
I am running it standard until the new year and then give the lot to the tuner to sort out. He is is currently on holidays and won't be back til late Jan.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Justen,
My wife is starting to wonder if I'm a mechanic as I always have crud under my nails.
I think she would be happier if I stayed in the garage.
Hopefully we'll get the fuel ratios sorted enough so I can drive it, then onto the dyno and see what we have.
My wife is starting to wonder if I'm a mechanic as I always have crud under my nails.
I think she would be happier if I stayed in the garage.
Hopefully we'll get the fuel ratios sorted enough so I can drive it, then onto the dyno and see what we have.
