Would this build be safe for TwinTurbo+100shot?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

tostitos

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Tennessee
High volume fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors, autolite plugs.
Alternator would be swapped out for a larger one if necessary, don't need the one in the lextreme store when I won't be using standard mount points.

Header flanges from the store with custom made headers to fit in the space I need to use*, and a pair of VF10 subie turbos. I could always use beefier oneslater. Intercooler would be mounted in a good airflow path because this will be open engine bay construction.

Then I would just have a heated 100shot bottle, dry throttlebody system.
ECU would be a megasquirt.

*I know custom headers will cost more than getting Tundras, and if the Tundra headers fit, I'll use them instead, but I have a set space to work inside / around.

Would I need to harden the engine in any places to run this system, or would I get some punchy power this way? From what I've researched, as long as the tuning is good, pre-98 1UZFEs can take up to around 600rwhp without significant issues. My main concern is actually breaking the sandrail's axles doing wheelies.
 
The stock motor is 10:1 compression. I don't think you'll be able to boost enough to pull 600 BHP out of it without holing a piston. What fuel are you running?

Personally, I wouldn't try to turbo this motor without rebuilding the bottom end with some forged pistons, and lowering the compression to 9:1 or possibly 8.5:1.

That's just my philosophy; another is the disposable motor philosophy, ie why dump $5-10K into rebuilding a motor, when you can buy them for $500 on eBay? If you blow one, just go out and get another one.

John
 
rebuilding a motor that will always break is a moot point. what if your racing and your motor blows? you replace it right, with the same model, no changes. but then it blows again, and you have to replace it... again. and so on and so forth until you either spen 10K replacing motors, or 15K building one that will actually last long enough to drive and race for a few years.
 
I didn't mean that I would be shooting for 600BHP, I would want around 400.

The turbos would be running a conservative amount of boost, probably 5 psi. I would want this to stay a pump gas vehicle that still has some fuel economy.

Forged pistons + rods combo would add some more to the overall cost but still be less than a Bowtie so I could include those too.
 
Come on guys, do a search or something. Plenty of internally stock 1UZ pulling big hp. Mine does 430hp at the wheels easy. As for 10:1 comp and turbo, that IS the way to go. ECU control is key but if you have a decent one the response you get from high comp ratio boosted motors is awesome.

Having played with turbos for some 15+ years now and starting with the traditional low comp ratio and big boost (7.5:1 and up to 30psi). I have been progressively going with higher and higher comp and getting better and better results. I wouldn't even consider going lower than 9.5:1 these days for a motor used on the street. 10:1 presents no probs at all.
 
Justen, you're preaching to the converted; I'm already a fan of high compression boosted motors, and my 1UZ has been built with 10:1 forgies for an M112 application. Unfortunately, the pump gas we're getting in the States is really poor. In some places 91 or 92 octane is being passed off as Premium. (BTW, we use a formula of (RON+MON)/2 to get our octane numbers.)

AFAIK, no one here in the States is pulling big numbers out of their stock setup for very long. Wayne (rytherwr) blew his 2UZ on only 9lbs of boost and a 150 shot. Did a proper job of it too - 5 rods, 4 pistons, and the block were totaled. He reckoned he was making around 560 at the crank. And this was a 4.7l motor, not a 4.0 litre....

Threads are here:

http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5560

http://lextreme.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31217&postcount=27

I originally thought (perhaps mistakenly) tostitos wanted to pull 600 BHP out of the motor, and with twin turbos and a 100 shot of NOS it'll certainly do it. But with cr*p pump gas and the stock cast pistons, realistically how long do you think the motor would live at that output? Now it can be argued that Wayne's motor was "only" a 2UZ, but I still don't think the stock 1UZ is up to it. But hey, I'm a hotrodder, and "destructive testing" is how we learn the limits of things, so I'd say go for it, and see if it breaks - if it does, buy another one from eBay for $500 and build it better.

John
 
Nah that's a fair enough call John, no way would i run my car hard on anything less than 98 octane. For track work i also stick in a bottle of octane booster, just for piece of mind as i doubt there's much in the way of perf gains.

Still hanging together (touch wood) and with performance that shames most 'built' engines....hats off to Toyota for building such a sweet engine.
 


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