What'll happen if I cut this?

[-Nemesis-]

I'm finally fitting a fan bracket on my engine to run a proper serpentine belt, previously I had simply deleted the hydraulic set up and as such have been getting belt slip.

Anyways, my engine bay is extremely tight, my best cooling system yet is reliant on the big shrouded twin thermo's I have. But there's now a catch, the clearance is that tight the front knob on the fan bracket is going to prevent me re-fitting the fans!!!

So a quick question if anyone knows the inside of these: What will I uncover if I grind back the assembly to roughly where the red line is here? Is there a bearing that far forward?

 

[Zuffen]

Nem,

Grind it back until it is flush with the pulley if you want.

Make sure you don't overheat the pulley as it will transfer the heat into the bearings. In other words grind a bit then let it cool then grind some more.

You can also replace the studs with 4 short 10 mm bolts. This will give you more clearance there as well.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Ahh cool thanks Rod, was thinking it's created yet another issue, I tend to have so many when trying anything 1UZ - 4Runner related lol.

BTW that hydro pump is kinda useless I think, I had completely gutted it so all there is is the inside valleys of where the pump used to be. If it's of any use to you i can send it over still.

 

[duza]

Nem,
There has been some discussion on here in the past that if you run the pully like you intend, ie, without oil in it, it will overheat and die. Others have said that it works OK with no overheating. If it siezes on you whilst driving, you may need to get towed home.
I had mine modified with a large roller bearing fitted into the area where the oil fins used to be, but didn't end up using it. Like you, I have been running without the pulley fitted. I did get some slip, but used a spray on stuff which has eliminated slip altogether.
Alternatively, I think Lextreme sell the complete pully mechanism from non hydraulic fan engines and that will bolt straight on.

 

[cjsupra90]

Nem,
There has been some discussion on here in the past that if you run the pully like you intend, ie, without oil in it, it will overheat and die. Others have said that it works OK with no overheating. If it siezes on you whilst driving, you may need to get towed home.
I had mine modified with a large roller bearing fitted into the area where the oil fins used to be, but didn't end up using it. Like you, I have been running without the pulley fitted. I did get some slip, but used a spray on stuff which has eliminated slip altogether.
Alternatively, I think Lextreme sell the complete pully mechanism from non hydraulic fan engines and that will bolt straight on.

He use to have the Hydraulic assembly, but now he has the Non Hydraulic assembly from the looks of it (picture posted). He is just wanting to grind off the pilot from the front of it to give a bit more clearance.... About the hydro units and no oil, I would not run it without oil period or you are asking for it to sieze on you. It uses a oil film bearing just like the crank and no oil is asking for trouble. For anyone that says you can run them with no oil, I ask this, would you run the engine with no oil?????

Back to the topic at hand, like Rod mentioned, yeah go ahead and grind it back if you need to, but be carefull as to not over head it, cutting it would be a better choice as cutting will induce far less heat then grinding.

 

[cjsupra90]

Speeking of what Rod mentioned, like he said about using short bolts insted of the studs, if you go that route, get the bolts as buttonhead cap screws/bolts.

 

[-Nemesis-]

Thanks for the tips mate, yeah I forgot to add that the assembly in the pic is my new fan assembly from Lex.

I bought a cut off saw yesterday for some future piping (wonder why I need more belt grip? ) so if I can clamp it in enough that should slice the face off nicely.

 

[XR8tt]

Would idler pulley and electric thermo fans be better option ??

 

[gloverman]

XR8tt - it is basicly an idler pully. We see them on crown motors and I like to use them when running a/c on conversions. We have cut the little snout off one but the unit was pressed apart , machined to take new bearings and refitted. Looks really good. It is possible to buy bearings from toyota but they are very pricey. Car was due back in but has been delayed so I can't get photos though. As the unit is pressed together I would cut it flush with the bolt on pully not with the flange.

As for the hydralic type the early ones were bushed so required oil but the later ones had a sealed bearing so as long as the pump gears where removed will run fine without oil. I started a thread a while ago with photos. Cheers

 

[cjsupra90]

As for the hydralic type the early ones were bushed so required oil but the later ones had a sealed bearing so as long as the pump gears where removed will run fine without oil. I started a thread a while ago with photos. Cheers

Ah, good to know. I never knew that the later units were sealed bearings (assuming roller or ball).