Water Temperature ?
- Thread starter mshawari1
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I've been running colder without the valve since my Electric fan swap...Noticed no ill effects, infact maybe the car even runs a little stronger...Temp Needle reads just over 1/4 temp always...Never moves....The Engine does not appear to be wearing out or burning oil yet either...It's been over a year since the change......
Why Peewee?
How does a slightly lower operating temp effect the engines performance?...An engine block that remains slightly cooler then factory setting, especially with a regularly used nos system and after market headers, I figured would be more of a plus rather then a minus...Am I gravely mistaken?
How does a slightly lower operating temp effect the engines performance?...An engine block that remains slightly cooler then factory setting, especially with a regularly used nos system and after market headers, I figured would be more of a plus rather then a minus...Am I gravely mistaken?
Why? Why? Why? I need to pick a brain or two for info on this....Is anyone listening? Does anyone care? Hello......People???????? For the love of God would somebody give me an explaination on this!!!!...(Don't say use the search function either) People please Response, please? Reply anyone ASAP? Is anyone out there in cyber space listening? Am I getting on anyones nerves yet?
Just kidding really not that desperate, but would like to know why you guys think the engine would wear faster or lose power at a slightly lower operating temp??? Reason being with a slightly lower engines operating temp I would venture to guess that it would cause less heat and friction which would result in prolonged engine wear...So now I ask humbly why would the engine wear out faster? It's a legitimate question no?
Just kidding really not that desperate, but would like to know why you guys think the engine would wear faster or lose power at a slightly lower operating temp??? Reason being with a slightly lower engines operating temp I would venture to guess that it would cause less heat and friction which would result in prolonged engine wear...So now I ask humbly why would the engine wear out faster? It's a legitimate question no?
Yup. While we all know about 1/3 of the combustion is turned into heat on the engine. I've always *heard* that the thermal effeciancy of an engine itself raises as the operating temperature of the components rises to an extint.
Tho I can't give an explaination for that other than the obvious ever tighting the ring & valve seals. Passed that the probably un-measureable lengthing of all kinds of parts???
That's why I don't like things I've never seen proven enough to my curiosity LoL!
But you don't want oil to fry (or change viscosity boatloads), or coolant to boil at any point in the system. Keep that from happening & you're ok for the most part. (You're really just worrying about coolant boiling & thermal expansion of any aluminum, stainless & carbon steel parts.)
Tho I can't give an explaination for that other than the obvious ever tighting the ring & valve seals. Passed that the probably un-measureable lengthing of all kinds of parts???
That's why I don't like things I've never seen proven enough to my curiosity LoL!
But you don't want oil to fry (or change viscosity boatloads), or coolant to boil at any point in the system. Keep that from happening & you're ok for the most part. (You're really just worrying about coolant boiling & thermal expansion of any aluminum, stainless & carbon steel parts.)
mshawari1
Member
It is all about the material expansion according to the temperature ! more hot = more gap in the cylinder block and in the head , So valve and pistons can move easily . also the oil viscosity will be in the lower range to do same job !
FYI the 1UZ operate at 82C , other Toyota injection engine operate at 88C ????
FYI the 1UZ operate at 82C , other Toyota injection engine operate at 88C ????
1uzvl
New Member
i may be on the wrong track here but one thing done to ls1 is that they stick a lower t/stat in for more power.I understand it as the computer is reading it colder putting in more fuel and timing.I know some of my cars seam to go better just before they were 100% warm,more responsive etc.
Eh. The problem with that tho is that any non-idiotic OEM is going to run the car signifigantly richer than needed. Sacraficing very high-mileage ring life for cooler combustion chamber temps.
OEM Toyota engines range from 157* thermostats to 204* thermostats. It just depends on the particular engine you want to talk about. The vast majority of which for about the last 20 years run thermostats that begin to open @ 168*-186* thermostats. (75-85*C)
Wow, there is a whole science behind all of this....Thanks for the explanation Peewee and Toys.......
However, similar to what 1uzvl had stated, when my car previously had ran at cooler temps before reaching it's normal operating temp it always seemed to run stronger, more responsive, etc.. ...That is why I figured a slightly lower and maintained operating temp would boost power, reduce engine wear, etc... That theory is incorrect as the stock ECU changes fuel/air ratio's as the engine heats....That is my understanding to this point...
Thermal expansion......So as the engine heats to factory settings the internal parts move easier with less gaps due to the heat expansion, etc...Parts are then made to move easier which actually causes less wear and increases performance..
I had always thought colder is better to some degree....I now see there is a fine line with all of that...To cold no good, too hot no good...
Does cast iron pistons and engine blocks really expand with heat? Very interesting.....I had thought that to be true with an alluminum block and other softer metals?
However, similar to what 1uzvl had stated, when my car previously had ran at cooler temps before reaching it's normal operating temp it always seemed to run stronger, more responsive, etc.. ...That is why I figured a slightly lower and maintained operating temp would boost power, reduce engine wear, etc... That theory is incorrect as the stock ECU changes fuel/air ratio's as the engine heats....That is my understanding to this point...
Thermal expansion......So as the engine heats to factory settings the internal parts move easier with less gaps due to the heat expansion, etc...Parts are then made to move easier which actually causes less wear and increases performance..
I had always thought colder is better to some degree....I now see there is a fine line with all of that...To cold no good, too hot no good...
Does cast iron pistons and engine blocks really expand with heat? Very interesting.....I had thought that to be true with an alluminum block and other softer metals?
To further expand on this I would like to say, cold starts is what really wears out the internals of the engine mostly because the oil has not reached the cylinder walls and rings during a cold start..So proper oil lubrication is comprimised during the cold start process...#1 cause of engine wear "cold starts"...
Now I have also read that the majority of engine wear occures in the engine when "running" a colder then normal op. temp also does come from the OIL, but not being absent but rather from being present ..Why? Simply operating your engine causes water to be introduced into your crank case. With properly heated oil the water is then evaporated out of the oil quickly. Also present in conventional oil is sulfer. Let sulferated oil sit with water and you get a weak solutions of sulfuric acid. That creates little pits in the moving metal parts or 'wear". If there is ever a case for using Full Sythetic Oil it is that there is no Sulfer in it as apposed to conventional oils.. That what gives you the ability to wait longer between oil change intervals..Sulfer is picked up in the oil from the combustion chamber over time regardless...
Now I have also read that the majority of engine wear occures in the engine when "running" a colder then normal op. temp also does come from the OIL, but not being absent but rather from being present ..Why? Simply operating your engine causes water to be introduced into your crank case. With properly heated oil the water is then evaporated out of the oil quickly. Also present in conventional oil is sulfer. Let sulferated oil sit with water and you get a weak solutions of sulfuric acid. That creates little pits in the moving metal parts or 'wear". If there is ever a case for using Full Sythetic Oil it is that there is no Sulfer in it as apposed to conventional oils.. That what gives you the ability to wait longer between oil change intervals..Sulfer is picked up in the oil from the combustion chamber over time regardless...
stevechumo
Active Member
I need your advice on my SC400 coolant temp. Under normal driving, the digital gauge reads about 170 F. Under boosting, it's about 185. When I turn on the A/C especially in summer, it goes to 205 easily. I got a little scared so I turn off the A/C. At 205, the car idles a little high (even the A/C is just turned off), and it's smoother when the A/C is off at lower temp. So what is the safe temperature that I can run? Also what is the maximum temperature for the SC400? Thanks, guys.
XR8tt
Active Member
oil flows better through engine when its at correct temp also..
Ever wandered why taxi's or long haul vehicles can do high miles before having issues?? Because they are always at operating temp..
I think you'll find trucks in fire stations have heaters under there sumps to keep engines warm. So they just go in emergencies..
I don't mean block warmers in cold climate...
Due to alloy expanding ? It helps with head bolt tension etc too..
Engine will go through way more fuel if it runs cold as said due to being on cold start mode..Which could in time burn out catalytic converter...
In some cases it could cause spark plugs to foul too
Ever wandered why taxi's or long haul vehicles can do high miles before having issues?? Because they are always at operating temp..
I think you'll find trucks in fire stations have heaters under there sumps to keep engines warm. So they just go in emergencies..
I don't mean block warmers in cold climate...
Due to alloy expanding ? It helps with head bolt tension etc too..
Engine will go through way more fuel if it runs cold as said due to being on cold start mode..Which could in time burn out catalytic converter...
In some cases it could cause spark plugs to foul too
Similar threads
