Project Thread Toyota Land Cruiser Turbo

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
the hanger for the downpipe-uses the spot to hang the oe exhaust

finished the manifold heat shield. I wrapped the downppe. I am almost finished with the turbine shield-i baught the stuff you have to sew up-pain in the ass but looks good

Question: I lost the instructions to the xspower wategate I baught (teil style)
It has 2 vacume lines coming out of it-one on top and one to side. Where do the lines go? I know one goes to the the compressor discharge but I dont know which one. I immagine the 2nd goes to a booste controller---I need to resolve this ASAP

I didn't use gaskets on the wastegate cause some turbo guy told me not to. The wastegate has one of those inlet valve bushings and the surfaces are machined and 3/8 thick. No gasket is ok?
 
Dusty,

You seems to know what you're doing. The work looks professional, too. Who knows you'll become a professional turbo system builder after this project.

I have one input. You actually don't need to cover the turbo manifold if it's not close to anything that can be burned. But it's better to have it there. You might need a wrap-around heat shield for the turbo itself. However, if it's not near anything, just leave it like that to save work, and also you can view and admire your work sometimes.

Cheers!
 

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Steve
or anyone, do I need to use gaskets for the wastegate? the surfaces are machined and 3/8. no gasket=no blown gasket.

ans d steve I just finished wrapping the turbine in heat that heat shield stuff-pain in the ass
 
That's true and a good philosophy. No gasket = no blown gasket. But you might encounter one thing. That's leaking. You might get away with a straight-through exhaust but since the wastegate is located at the end, the heat pressure is greater. What if the surfaces of the flanges are not smooth and tight enough in between? Also, the flanges will get really hot, thus the steel will get soft and expand. When it leaks, it'll be very noisy and annoying. ***You should use a gasket. There're a lot of them out there, depends on what size your wastegate is. Google it or here are a few links: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TBN-GSK-001&Category_Code=GSK. Or http://www.tialsport.com/prod_wg_pts.htm.

You did a great job in making the heat shield, although your ass might get a pain...:veryhappy
 
You convinced me steve

I put a wastegate gasket (a nice one with real metel-the same one you refered me too) at the discharge of the wastegate. I didn't put a gasket at the entrance of the wastegate as it has that "fire shield" ring. IS IT BETTER TO USE THE RING THAN A GASKET? SHOULD I USE A GASKET WITHOUT A RING? SHOULD I USE BOTH THE GASKET AND THE RING?

I had to make a new fitting for the heater return as the oe piece was a metal pipe that was in the way (see 2nd pic)

I also used a mufler clamp around the waste discharge slip joint. I tightened it down till the slip joint is firm but still slides as suggested be Corky Bell is his book "maximum Boost" I hope it doesn't leak too much

The turbo, wastegate, and downpipe are all in place as are the oil feed and return. I used split nuts on the the torbo bolts and warped lock washers for the wastegate. I hopefully will finish the intercooler ducting and have her running by end of tomorow

how do you like how my boost, egt, and a/f ratio gauges are mounted Mad Max style. Untill I can say the truck is going to work for sure that is as good as they are going to be

CAN YOU JUST USE PVC VALVES AS ONE WAY VALVES? OR IS THERE ANOTHER CHEAP ONE WAY VALVE ALTERNATIVE AVAILABLE AT LOCAL AUTOMOTIVE STORES?
 
Dusty - You have a California Cruiser shouldn't you be concerned about passing smog checks? Also the desired 300hp that you are shooting for, are you concerned at all about ECU problems?... You think your T04E running at what 6psi will not require ECU tuning at all? Those would be my biggest two concerns from what I see so far.....


Again good work, and just to let you know you are giving people like me an educatiion off your posting and pic's....Awesome for info..and thanks....
 
I would prefer the gasket. You should tighten everything and not to give any slidings. I don't know what the book says but if anything slides, it'll eventually get worse by time due to the vibrations of the engine, suspensions...etc. It's true that you'll need some flexxing on the exhaust system, but a loose pipe isn't the solution. You would rather use a exhaust flex pipe instead. You may use the one like in the picture.

The split nuts/washers won't help even they're stainless steel. They will eventually stay flat after a few months due to the heat. The result will be untight nuts and leaking. You may use regular stainless steel washers.

The boost & a/f gauges look like on the race cars. That'll be cool and you may be the first SUV driver to have them. I haven't seen them on any SUVs.

For the PCV valve, you may leave it in stock location and use a breather on the secondary hose that's on the top of the valve cover near the PCV. Just connect it to the breather and let it hang somewhere. It'll get some oil but after a long time. When it's full of oil, take it out, clean it and put it back in. This breather is about $10 at Autozone, Pepboys or any autoparts stores. Or you may look at Lextreme's setup on his turbocharged LS for the oil catch can. He uses a very good design such as from a moisture filter from a paint spray gun. I don't have that link so you'll need to search on this forum.

Try 6 psi first without touching the ECU and see how the car runs. When you install 6 psi spring on the wastegate, it'll usually give you only 4 or 5 psi. But of course with a hi-pressure/hi-flow fuel pump and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. And then increase the higher springs to your desire.

Remember to fully oil-prime the turbo after installation.

Be careful on the timing. Every car is different from other cars. The best additional thing is to install an ignition system such as from MSD..etc with the timing control box. Try to retard from 2 degree of timing and more as needed. Listen carefully for any "pinging" or "knocking" when revving. Retard the timing until there's no more pinging. Usually, 5 or 6 psi with good fuel supply, you don't really need timing control, but who knows. Good luck!
 
You convinced me steve

I put a wastegate gasket (a nice one with real metel) at the discharge of the wastegate. I didn't put a gasket at the entrance of the wastegate as it has that "fire shield" ring. IS IT BETTER TO USE THE RING THAN A GASKET? SHOULD I USE A GASKET WITHOUT A RING? SHOULD I USE BOTH THE GASKET AND THE RING?

I had to make a new fitting for the heater return as the oe piece was a metal pipe that was in the way (see 2nd pic)

I also used a mufler clamp around the waste discharge slip joint. I tightened it down till the slip joint is firm but still slides as suggested be Corky Bell is his book "maximum Boost" I hope it doesn't leak too much

The turbo, wastegate, and downpipe are all in place as are the oil feed and return. I used split nuts on the the torbo bolts and warped lock washers for the wastegate. I hopefully will finish the intercooler ducting and have her running by end of tomorow

how do you like how my boost, egt, and a/f ratio gauges are mounted Mad Max style. Untill I can say the truck is going to work for sure that is as good as they are going to be

CAN YOU JUST USE PVC VALVES AS ONE WAY VALVES? OR IS THERE ANOTHER CHEAP ONE WAY VALVE ALTERNATIVE AVAILABLE AT LOCAL AUTOMOTIVE STORES?
 
v8 landcrusier way to go

Hi I have just fitted a 1uz fe to my 1984 60 series and love it.
The 1uz revs, where the old iron six cylinder struggled. An adaptor kit was used to mate the crusier manaul box to the 1uz. The box was moved forward and the engine is back against the firewall. The original radiator was used with an electric fan.
For good reliable power the 1uz is, in my opinion the way to go.
 
Wow!!!! artiesee you did that swap in an 1984 model?...What an upgrade that must be....Where did you find that adaptor kit? I was not aware one existed...I use to drop Chevy's in the older Land Cruisers, the FJ40's and I know there are adaptors made for that swap but not the IUZ.......How did the Toyota stock gearing work with the IUZFE? Is there enough torque with the IUZFE swap? Did you run stock headers and what about the ECU for IUZ...engine management? If I remember correctly those 84 Toyota Trannies rev high on the freeway, so how does that work now with the Iuzfe...Lastly is it fast? Sorry for all the questions but that kind of swap has been on my mind and I am excited to hear that it has been done....Most important question to me is where did you get that adaptor kit? Any pics?
 
hey Jibby,
because the 1uz revs speed appears to be good. I have not tried to find the upper limits however 145 kilometers per hour down the freeway there was certainly lots more in reserve. I have also fitted a Fairey overdrive to assist with fuel economy when cruising. The overdrive now gives me 10 gears if wanted. I recently towed a car on a trailer 2000 klms. and found the overdrive handy finding the right gear up the hills. The diff ratios are standard 60 series sahara and the wheels are 15 inch with wide bridgestones. With the over drive engaged 95klms per hr in second gear is about the limit. The original 1uz ecu was used however I have yet to get the taco working.
The headers are stock and fit neatly with the right exhaust joining the left beside the gearbox and the gases exit through one pipe and cat converter out the left rear.
This has created the right sound. Headers and dual exhausts would probably give more power. It could do with more torque but its good for my use.
Adaptor kits are available here in Australia I got mine from Dellow automotive here in Sydney. CRS Castlemaine Rod Shop have posts within this site and they should be able to assist. My conversion was done by Mark at Trik Fit and Jimmy the genius did the wiring. Sorry no pics as yet.
 
Give us more details. How does it compare to stock?...Is it actually fast? How is the tranny holding the power? I just ordered a set of headers for my LandCruiser, reworked the exhaust and intake already and it has made a decent difference in power so for...... How much power are you now getting out of that setup? Sorry for the questions, I am just trying to imagine what the power would be like in my cruiser....I am thrilled for you.....Good work and good posts...
 
jeep killer

finished it couple weeks ago. 3 days after I finished i took it to california-non stop overnight from colorado. I was a little scared to do such a drive after so liuttle testing but after the first 100 miles I felt good. I drove 3,300 miles in a week as our family vacationed in cali. the last picture is of the Edison campground at shaver lake in the siera nevada mountains. (thats in cali for all you ausies)
I have more power than I could hope for now. She starts boosting at 2300 rpms if throttle body is open. She pulls linear but hard developing 7psi at 4000 rpms. I havn't taken her past 4k yet as I want to put a better fuel pump on it just to be sure. a 255lpm pump is in the mail now. I dont need to downshift anymore. I set the cruise at 82mph and unless there is a way steep grade I just sit back and enjoy. I wish you all could see the faces on several 100 series (4.7L v8) cruiser owners as I blew by them on a steep grade in new mexico. I made this guy in a new extera feel stupid as I passed him climbing a grade outside flagstaff Arizona. he had his 4.0L nissan pegged doing 75 miles an hour and I didn't even take my lexus out of 4th gear.
My worst tank was 12.8mpg and my best tank was 15.3 mpg. Actually the 15.3 mpg was when my wife was driving and she never goes over 75mph. I set the cruise at 82mph unless my radar detector dictates otherwise. These milage numbers are only about a 1mpg worse than we normally get with this truck so the turbo isn't sucking gas too much. We spent $830 on gas for the trip (ouch) but we went faster than ever before. Also remember that my lexus has over 500 lbs of body armour with my custom bumpers and sliders.
The egt read bw 1200 and 1400 degrees through the trip. the water temp never got above 214 degrees and this was in 100' arizona heat with ac running and totally violating the speed limit. The narrow band a/f never read lean for what thats worth.
For now all I am going to do place a new fuel pump and try out 5000rpms. I dont want the rising pressure regulator as a gentleman named christo slee here in colorado owns a dedicated landcruiser shop and has found that cruisers that use this form of fuel management consistently run rich and get shitty milage. He is running a smt6 for engine management with excellent results. The megasquirt is also an option. But for now Im just going to drive her with a big smile. I couldn't be happier. This truck will now outrun my 5.2L V8 jeep grand cherokee. out of the hole the jeep is quicker but once I hit 2300 rpms I could kiss my jeep goodby.
 
I built this rear bumper this year too. the fender guards are removable

now that I can turn the tires I will be getting a lift and some big meats. At leaste 35's and possibly 37's. to fit the latter I may need to cut up my suspension a bit.
 
i'm glad to see the advice re: the larger A/R exhaust housing has paid off for you in real terms - like i said, clever manifold design can improve your throttle response without bottle-necking at mid-high rpm.

i'm very impressed by your workmanship too - it's so great to see people taking pride in what they make to not only make it work, but make it LAST. i've seen so many dodgy turbo manifolds that work, but inevitably crack after extended periods on boost due to hotspots from bottlenecks, lack of bracing or incorrect material choice.

A1 for effort.
A1 for workmanship
A1 for results.

thanks for the pics and for sharing the info dude. two thumbs up from me.
 


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