Torana - 1UZ

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Trial fit no 1...

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A neat fit between the chassis rails with heaps of room in front, trying to keep as low and as far back as poss to minimise clashes with the brake booster and heater.

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About 20mm clearance between the cam cover bolts and the chassis rails.

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Sufficient room for exhaust to clear everything. The engine mount on the crossmember will go and the top suspension arm pivot will be lowered 25mm. The flexi coupling on the steering shaft will be replaced with a compact universal joint.

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The flange on the chassis rail will be beaten back under to allow a little more clearance without affecting strength.
The TransDapt mounts are very compact and stiff sowill allow little movement of the engine. NVH is not a priority...
 
Beautifull.......

How much clearance to the Bonnet? I might not even HAVE to go the route I was talking about.

(Bear in mind that working alongside boilermakers everyday makes those kind of things easy to build. Making a jig off the original, remake crossmember, then custom arms....)

Still, I would love to see peoples faces to see a custom front-end. With power steering..... No bump steer, and better turning circle to boot!:mischievo

Anything can be built if you take the time and have access to the equipment. Oh, well. A man can dream.....:redface:

Enough on that issue. Where are the 1uz's mounts in relation to the crossmember mounts?
 
dailey said:
i got my engine mounts and sump from castlemain rod shop, they do good work.
The bonnet clears the engine, not sure by how much.
These mounts are they a bolt on conversion? How much for mounts and sump?
 
LX Toarna coupe 1UZ

These are old photos of my car that have been on a torana site, TOBES has more phots of it I think.

CRS fitted it in 2000 and did a crap job which I'm re-doing atm including respray. I Used it as a daily driver for 2 and a half years and did about 25000 k's. It was built using a wolf 3d ecu, dellow crossmember and supra 5 speed with falcon 6 cyl clutch. I'm still using the straight log headers which only needed to be modified at the pipe flanges to fit. The D/S header was manufactured to clear the steering in car it came from (crown? ) and clears the torana steering shaft perfectly. Basically I'm going to scrap just about everything and re do it. Oh wel live and learn and if you want it done right then do it yourself.

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In 2000, CRS did the sump, engine mounts and scalloped/butchered the crossmember. They adapted and welded a VT commodore 3.8 v6 alloy sump pan to the rear of the original sump. This required a huge scallop to the crossmember which required heaps of extra bracing which hangs about 35mm lower than standard. Yes it bottoms out and scrapes on driveways/speed humps if driven too quickly( crossmember). I was naive, young and believed they would of done a better job. The new owners have offered to supply an off the shelf sump at a TRADE price - which is fair I guess considering they employ the same people that worked on my car. I'm not a huge fan of their and other ready made sumps as the rail blocks some of the oil gallery drain holes at the base of the block. There is also no provision to bolt up the lower bolt holes to the bellhousing.
 
Sump

Elliotaw, can supply laser cut sump rails/bellhousing plates. I'll have a look at my sump and see if it's worth re-modifying it or starting from scratch and make it out of aluminium.
 


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