T56 Vs. V160

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
My 1998 Cobra came orginally with T45 (Ok tranny with 5 speed) and I swap it out to T56 and the 6th gear was almost useless to me. Unless I got over 120 mph otherwise, I have to downshift to 5th inorder to make my Snake move. Cruising the 6th at 65 mph is almost non responsive when gas. However, T56 with 6 speed does sounds sexy, but functionally the TKO600 is way better for street application.

Thats strange, cause a friend / neighbore has a 2000 Cobra R with the factory installed T-56 and the car has no shaking at low speeds in 6th gear. It cruises just fine at 65mph....

The standers verison of the TKO600 has a .64 5th gear and the Cobra R 6th gear is .62 so there is almost vertuially no difference between 5th in the TKO and 6th in the T56.

Edit: Wait, I know where the problem is.... The 1998 Cobra came with a 3.27 rear end where as the 2000 Cobra R 6sp came with a 3.55 rear gear.
 
I understand what you are saying about torque with the Supra but have you seen the 1000 HP supras launch? There is somr serious torque being put down still.
I may be bias and just trying to convince myself.
 
I have a cunning plan.....

after struggling with my adapter plate for my T56 to 1UZ i found these two products:

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm

http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousingkits/index.htm
(BH 106C Quad Cam V8 Toyota to GM Muncie, Saginaw, T10)

perhaps a complex way of doing it.
but it can be done with off the shelf parts.

you do need, as the info on the adapter plate states, a long input shaft trans.

A definite option tho. but be aware that the T56 trans does not fair well if the input shaft has any side load. i heard less that 5thou side load is acceptable. as these boxes use taper roller bearing on the input shaft which would wear very fast if side load is present.

I hope this helps some folks, i wish i had found these products before i made my adapter plate and had to enter into a machining war with a flexible bellhousing.

Daniel.
 
I have a cunning plan.....

after struggling with my adapter plate for my T56 to 1UZ i found these two products:

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm

http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousingkits/index.htm
(BH 106C Quad Cam V8 Toyota to GM Muncie, Saginaw, T10)

perhaps a complex way of doing it.
but it can be done with off the shelf parts.

you do need, as the info on the adapter plate states, a long input shaft trans.

A definite option tho. but be aware that the T56 trans does not fair well if the input shaft has any side load. i heard less that 5thou side load is acceptable. as these boxes use taper roller bearing on the input shaft which would wear very fast if side load is present.

I hope this helps some folks, i wish i had found these products before i made my adapter plate and had to enter into a machining war with a flexible bellhousing.

Daniel.

This does seem like a practical way of doing it.... Might not even need to buy the bellhousing depending on what the input shaft length is from the bellhousing side of the steel plate is... If the lenght is close to the bellhousing depth of a UZ auto bellhousing is, then 6 holes would just need to be drilled into the steel adapter plate and a thin centering ring be made thus allowing for the UZ belhousing to be bolted to the steel adapter plate and your done.. Again, this depends on the input shaft length after the steel adapter plate..
 
also depends on how true the 1uz bellhousing is,
mine was 15thou out, partly because the sump had been dowled incorrectly,
after repositioning the bellhousigng dowls i managed to get 2thou run out but the bellhousing is quite flexible so care needs to be taken.

I guess you would also need to question the bellhousing vendor as to the quality of his work....

i have a long shaft box and a 10mm adapter plate and the input spigot fits perfectly into the ball bearings i installed in the crank.

Daniel.
 
I have a cunning plan.....

after struggling with my adapter plate for my T56 to 1UZ i found these two products:

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm

http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousingkits/index.htm
(BH 106C Quad Cam V8 Toyota to GM Muncie, Saginaw, T10)

perhaps a complex way of doing it.
but it can be done with off the shelf parts.


I had this same idea a while ago--but decided it was too expensive. I was also worried about what the final tolerances would be using two separate adapters. Ironically, those tolerances are probably still better than my prototype. I'll see how long my input shaft bearings last with my homemade bellhousing.

Mark
 
also depends on how true the 1uz bellhousing is,
mine was 15thou out, partly because the sump had been dowled incorrectly,
after repositioning the bellhousigng dowls i managed to get 2thou run out but the bellhousing is quite flexible so care needs to be taken.

I guess you would also need to question the bellhousing vendor as to the quality of his work....

i have a long shaft box and a 10mm adapter plate and the input spigot fits perfectly into the ball bearings i installed in the crank.

Daniel.

Which box do you have? There is IIRC correctly, 5 different input shaft lengths (LT1 setups, LS1 setups, GM aftermarked, Ford OEM, Ford aftermarked, and Viper) and from my understanting, they all have different input lengths...

Oh and you motor has the dowel pins in the sump and not in the block? (thats interesting)
 
I had to clearance the holes in the sump so that the sump was not proud of the rest of the bellhousing mounting face. dowels were indeed in the block.

My box is the LS1 box from a 2004 GM Holden Commodore R8 (commonwhore)

It has one of the lowest torque ratings of all the boxes at 350ftlbs (TUET1660)

Daniel.
 


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