HarperRacingBangkok
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Thanks guys: I will be at my shop today with the tuner/mechanic and the wiring guy . . . and the first thing I will check is the cam timing.
Project Thread Supercharged 1UZ Bangkok Drag Truck
- Thread starter HarperRacingBangkok
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Cribbj - Yep, I am using the 2JZ AEM ECU. The 1UZ cam sensor (I am using the left side only) is of the same type as the 2JZ . . . and there are several 1UZs here running this set-up successfully. I spoke with my AEM tuner and he says "no need for a reluctor" as the AEM reads this type of sensor perfectly . . . . if it isn't broke! Thanks.
HarperRacingBangkok
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Update: Last night we all thrashed the little 1UZ. The electrician tested every wire, every connection, and every plug on the coils and injection. We traced everything from ECU to terminus - all O. K. The cams are installed in the right places. We swapped in another AEM ECU (with same map) - and had the exact same result/symptoms. One last suggestion by the electrician: check the senders for accurate pulses/waves. Eureka! The camshaft position sender was sending intermittent signals (only one out of five or six) which confused the ECU (and made the symptoms appear that the cams were out of sync). We tested the sender and the sender wires (in and out of the car), and even closed the gap between cam sender and pulley bump (and, yes, sanded the bump too). Unfortunately we didn't have another 1UZ sender on hand. We will go at it again tomorrow evening.
Why/how do senders fail?
Why/how do senders fail?
JustenGT8
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It might not be a failure, just that you need a reluctor to convert the signal to the correct wave form and improve signal strength for the ECU?
HarperRacingBangkok
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JustenGT8: Thanks. I don't think that is it: we tested the sender directly with a proper meter, and it did not register 80% of the passes at all -- even when tested on the bench with a large iron object. But, yes, if we were only using the ECU to 'read' the signal, then that would be and excellent suggestion. However, tell me more abut the use of a reluctor and how I might benefit from using one -- I am not very familiar with their use.
JustenGT8
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Hmmm getting a bit outside my technical understanding but ...and it's a big but....from what i understand the OEM signal is generally not compatible for most aftermarket ECUs. Yes they may pick up something but it will be variable and weak. The reluctor is a type of diode i think, that converts the signal to a clearer waveform for the ECU and effectively strengthens the signal? Something i need to get a better understanding of myself but electrics always send me to sleep...i like nuts and bolts and mechanical stuff
HarperRacingBangkok
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JustenGT8, Thanks again. I will ask my wiring guy about the reluctor. You may be on to something here.
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Jeff, if you're running the AEM for the Supra, it's designed for use with variable reluctor (VR) type pickups which are the standard type found on the 2JZ-GTE motor.
They're the simplest type speed sensors around and are just a permanent magnet with a bit of wire wrapped around it. The steel teeth of the crank trigger wheel or the single tooth of the cam trigger "cuts" the magnet field, and causes a disturbance in the coil of wire, which looks like a sine wave that varies in amplitude with the speed of the crank trigger wheel.
Because they're so simple, they rarely fail, but where the wires get potted as they go inside the sensor is a weak area.
Since the 1UZ has 2 cam sensors, and the AEM only needs one to trigger from, you should be able to swap sensors. For my setup, and all the others I've seen using the AEM, we've used the left hand bank cam sensor (cylinders 1/3/5/7) for the AEM.
They're the simplest type speed sensors around and are just a permanent magnet with a bit of wire wrapped around it. The steel teeth of the crank trigger wheel or the single tooth of the cam trigger "cuts" the magnet field, and causes a disturbance in the coil of wire, which looks like a sine wave that varies in amplitude with the speed of the crank trigger wheel.
Because they're so simple, they rarely fail, but where the wires get potted as they go inside the sensor is a weak area.
Since the 1UZ has 2 cam sensors, and the AEM only needs one to trigger from, you should be able to swap sensors. For my setup, and all the others I've seen using the AEM, we've used the left hand bank cam sensor (cylinders 1/3/5/7) for the AEM.
JustenGT8
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ah that was it. My terminology is a bit off but the reluctor 'interface' converts the sine wave to a square wave which some ECUs (Wolf and Autronic) need to guarantee a strong/clear signal
HarperRacingBangkok
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Cribbj - Yep, I am using the 2JZ AEM ECU. The 1UZ cam sensor (I am using the left side only) is of the same type as the 2JZ . . . and there are several 1UZs here running this set-up successfully. I spoke with my AEM tuner and he says "no need for a reluctor" as the AEM reads this type of sensor perfectly . . . . if it isn't broke! Thanks.
HarperRacingBangkok
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Building a 1UZ-powered drag racer in Bangkok has its charms . . . and frustrations. I wouldn't trade it for the world!
We were trashing late last night.
I had a lot of help from both my tuner's (Art) shop and the wiring guy's (George) shop.
The night air was very nice (for Bangkok) for working, in the low 80s (f).
We were trashing late last night.
I had a lot of help from both my tuner's (Art) shop and the wiring guy's (George) shop.
The night air was very nice (for Bangkok) for working, in the low 80s (f).
JustenGT8
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Small, but nice and tidy workshop....always a good sign
HarperRacingBangkok
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So, here is the current state of affairs with getting my 1UZ racer going:
1). It started first time, but popped and banged.
2). Then it wouldn't start, but threw raw fuel out the right side header.
3). Several discoveries were made: The coils were wired wrong -- the injectors were wired out of sequence -- the #8 injector was not wired (so it stayed open) -- and the GT Race Fuel is so good that it needs 15% less fuel to run.
4). All of these were fixed on Wednesday night, it started, ran, and revved -- and initial tuning was done.
5). Strip tuning begins on Saturday night.
Sheesh!
1). It started first time, but popped and banged.
2). Then it wouldn't start, but threw raw fuel out the right side header.
3). Several discoveries were made: The coils were wired wrong -- the injectors were wired out of sequence -- the #8 injector was not wired (so it stayed open) -- and the GT Race Fuel is so good that it needs 15% less fuel to run.
4). All of these were fixed on Wednesday night, it started, ran, and revved -- and initial tuning was done.
5). Strip tuning begins on Saturday night.
Sheesh!
HarperRacingBangkok
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Jan 3, 2010:
I towed my Familia drag truck back down to VooDoo Racing in Pattaya yesterday for Art to sort out the wiring and to build a new map at his leisure. I made a bad call by wanting to take my racer to the track for the final tuning . . . . . instead of leaving it in Pattaya where it could have been sorted. Oh well. The drag strips here are closed for a couple of months -- for winter (?). It is very strange that the Thai drag strips close in January and February, the coolest months of the year -- when the cars would make the most horsepower. Go figure!
January 6, 2010:http://drjeffbangkok.squarespace.com/display/ShowJournal?moduleId=3048754®isteredAuthorId=438265
I got a call from the shop to say that my 1UZ is now 100%! He started it so I could hear it over the phone. Sweet. All the wiring was traced (again) and several wires were run correctly but were not plugged into the right pins for the AEM ECU. With that straightened out, it started right up, Art was able to put in an initial "safe" map, and gave it a few revs . . . but only a few revs . . . until the neighbors started to call complaining about the sound. Art says,
"Hi Doc, I had your truck inside the shop when I tried to see how much boost you made. It was too loud inside, and I got some complaints. Tomorrow I'm going to move your truck right next to the front door of my shop, and put in the header extension on. This way I can get a good reading on the A/F and point the pipe out side so it won't be too loud I had your truck in the back of my shop, it shook the second floor office."
I will go down and get it in a couple of weeks.
I towed my Familia drag truck back down to VooDoo Racing in Pattaya yesterday for Art to sort out the wiring and to build a new map at his leisure. I made a bad call by wanting to take my racer to the track for the final tuning . . . . . instead of leaving it in Pattaya where it could have been sorted. Oh well. The drag strips here are closed for a couple of months -- for winter (?). It is very strange that the Thai drag strips close in January and February, the coolest months of the year -- when the cars would make the most horsepower. Go figure!
January 6, 2010:http://drjeffbangkok.squarespace.com/display/ShowJournal?moduleId=3048754®isteredAuthorId=438265
I got a call from the shop to say that my 1UZ is now 100%! He started it so I could hear it over the phone. Sweet. All the wiring was traced (again) and several wires were run correctly but were not plugged into the right pins for the AEM ECU. With that straightened out, it started right up, Art was able to put in an initial "safe" map, and gave it a few revs . . . but only a few revs . . . until the neighbors started to call complaining about the sound. Art says,
"Hi Doc, I had your truck inside the shop when I tried to see how much boost you made. It was too loud inside, and I got some complaints. Tomorrow I'm going to move your truck right next to the front door of my shop, and put in the header extension on. This way I can get a good reading on the A/F and point the pipe out side so it won't be too loud
I had your truck in the back of my shop, it shook the second floor office."I will go down and get it in a couple of weeks.
HarperRacingBangkok
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Well . . . all is good in Thailand. My race truck is completely sorted now, and only needs a strip tune to get it ready for the dyno. I like to race a few week-ends with a somewhat 'rich' strip tune before I go on the dyno to be sure the mechanicals are tip top. I will strip tune this Saturday night. The problems I have been chasing were electrical in nature: some wiring was done 'correctly', but was not plugged into the AEM ECU in the right holes. Also, there was an issue with the cam position sender wire not being shielded, and the AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor being wired the wrong way. In a 'free rev' at the shop, the little motor made 6.5 pounds of boost at 6500 . . . through a lot of piping and a large intercooler. I am fine with that. I plan to program the PCS to shift at 7000 for the fast brackets, and 5500 for the slower brackets. We will see what it does under a load this Saturday night (Jan. 23, 2010). I am still trying to secure an AEM Twin Fire CDI to boost the spark -- they have been unavailable for many months now while AEM 'redesigns' the product -- but I will run without one in the meantime. I will wait to dyno it until I have the CDI, however. Remember, my project is not to see how much horsepower I can make from this engine combination: I am a bracket racer, and what is important to me is reliability, tunability, and repeatability. I need ONLY to 'run (and accurately predict) my number' in back-to-back-to-back quarter mile passes. I was doing that just fine with my old turbo 1.5JZ . . . but the lure of an uncorked all-aluminum V-8 was just too much to resist! Wish me luck.
My race truck is completely sorted now, and only needs a strip tune to get it ready for the dyno. I like to race a few week-ends with a somewhat 'rich' strip tune before I go on the dyno to be sure the mechanicals are tip top. I will strip tune this Saturday night. The problems I have been chasing were electrical in nature: some wiring was done 'correctly', but was not plugged into the AEM ECU in the right holes. Also, there was an issue with the cam position sender wire not being shielded, and the AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor being wired the wrong way. In a 'free rev' at the shop, the little motor made 6.5 pounds of boost at 6500 . . . through a lot of piping and a large intercooler. I am fine with that. I plan to program the PCS to shift at 7000 for the fast brackets, and 5500 for the slower brackets. We will see what it does under a load this Saturday night (Jan. 23, 2010). I am still trying to secure an AEM Twin Fire CDI to boost the spark -- they have been unavailable for many months now while AEM 'redesigns' the product -- but I will run without one in the meantime. I will wait to dyno it until I have the CDI, however. Remember, my project is not to see how much horsepower I can make from this engine combination: I am a bracket racer, and what is important to me is reliability, tunability, and repeatability. I need ONLY to 'run (and accurately predict) my number' in back-to-back-to-back quarter mile passes. I was doing that just fine with my old turbo 1.5JZ . . . but the lure of an uncorked all-aluminum V-8 was just too much to resist! Wish me luck.
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Jeff, as you're probably already aware, the AEM CDi system doesn't have a stellar history or reputation. Whether AEM have finally sorted out all the problems with their box, I don't know, but you couldn't give one of these away a few years ago, and I'm speaking about the 2nd and possibly the 3rd generation. (Just checked AEM's Forums, and as recently as this month, people are still moaning about the problems they're having with it....)
If I were you, and was committed to running a CDi system, I'd get an M&W.
They're in Oz have a terrific reputation and they're closer to you for support than AEM.
If I were you, and was committed to running a CDi system, I'd get an M&W.
They're in Oz have a terrific reputation and they're closer to you for support than AEM.
HarperRacingBangkok
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Cribbj,
Thanks for your concern, interest and help. Yes, the forums of this world have gone round and round about the AEM CDI. My take on the AEM CDI: These forums are, on the whole, very thin with detail about why the particular unit has failed. Some of these units failed because of owner installations, bad wiring, and electrical gremlins elsewhere, I am sure. It is true that the AEM is not very well protected against shorting in the ignition system. In addition, if there is a problem in the electrical system generally, the AEM CDI is vulnerable to crashing. If you are going to use one you have to have bulletproof wiring, that's for sure. Other (more expensive) CDIs are more well-protected against errant electricity entering the unit. The M&W, Autronic, and MSD units are less prone to damage of this type because of internal protection of their circuitry. The problem with AEM CDI appears not to be with what IS IN IT, but with what was NOT put in it: circuit protection. That being said, 'proper wiring', added fusing, good grounding, and such (OK, and maybe 'good luck' as well) has yielded reliable operation with the AEM CDI for many users. All this may be a moot point, however, because you cannot find one anywhere. AEM has not manufactured one in many, many months, and all shelf stock everywhere appears to be depleted. Among my options (M$W or MSD DIS-4 -- the great Autronic will not work with the AEM ECU), the expensive M$W appears to be the best choice, I agree, and I may well purchase one. Thanks again for your concern.
Thanks for your concern, interest and help. Yes, the forums of this world have gone round and round about the AEM CDI. My take on the AEM CDI: These forums are, on the whole, very thin with detail about why the particular unit has failed. Some of these units failed because of owner installations, bad wiring, and electrical gremlins elsewhere, I am sure. It is true that the AEM is not very well protected against shorting in the ignition system. In addition, if there is a problem in the electrical system generally, the AEM CDI is vulnerable to crashing. If you are going to use one you have to have bulletproof wiring, that's for sure. Other (more expensive) CDIs are more well-protected against errant electricity entering the unit. The M&W, Autronic, and MSD units are less prone to damage of this type because of internal protection of their circuitry. The problem with AEM CDI appears not to be with what IS IN IT, but with what was NOT put in it: circuit protection. That being said, 'proper wiring', added fusing, good grounding, and such (OK, and maybe 'good luck' as well) has yielded reliable operation with the AEM CDI for many users. All this may be a moot point, however, because you cannot find one anywhere. AEM has not manufactured one in many, many months, and all shelf stock everywhere appears to be depleted. Among my options (M$W or MSD DIS-4 -- the great Autronic will not work with the AEM ECU), the expensive M$W appears to be the best choice, I agree, and I may well purchase one. Thanks again for your concern.
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HarperRacingBangkok
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I am just back from Los Angeles now, but go to Italy in three days . . . . too much travel and not enough racing. I purchased an MSD DIS-4 Plus (CDI) while in The States, so I will have my guys install it while I am gone. In two weeks I will be back at it at the track for test and tune . . . . I hope!
stevechumo
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We should have let us know. David and I are 30 minutes from LA.
HarperRacingBangkok
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Don't tell me you live in Thousand Oaks . . . . because that's where I was. Too bad, I would have enjoyed meeting some 1UZ fans!
HarperRacingBangkok
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Progress Report: After being home in Bangkok for three days (and some surgery), I was off to Italy for eight days. I am finally back home and trying to get into a routine that includes 1UZ race car stuff! Sheesh! The news: The MSD DIS-4 was installed and the engine started right up . . . there are no problems with the motor running now. All previous problems were caused by the wiring guy "wiring the car correctly" but plugging the wires into some wrong pins on the AEM ECU -- which resulted in trying to tune the beast based on spurious input sensor data. Sheesh! Somehow I think this qualifies as "Not wiring the car correctly." Next, the same wiring guy "wired the PCS trans controller correctly" but plugged some wires into the PCS box in the wrong pins. After two new wiring guys refused to touch the PCS ("Too complicated" they said . . . and I appreciated their honesty). The new, new, new wiring guy figured it out and tested it. Perfect. Sooooo . . . next week-end I test and tune . . . . IF, and it's a big IF . . . they don't shut down the local drag strip again for running a nude dancing show in the track side bar . Only in Bangkok! Sheesh!
), I was off to Italy for eight days. I am finally back home and trying to get into a routine that includes 1UZ race car stuff! Sheesh! The news: The MSD DIS-4 was installed and the engine started right up . . . there are no problems with the motor running now. All previous problems were caused by the wiring guy "wiring the car correctly" but plugging the wires into some wrong pins on the AEM ECU -- which resulted in trying to tune the beast based on spurious input sensor data. Sheesh! Somehow I think this qualifies as "Not wiring the car correctly." Next, the same wiring guy "wired the PCS trans controller correctly" but plugged some wires into the PCS box in the wrong pins. After two new wiring guys refused to touch the PCS ("Too complicated" they said . . . and I appreciated their honesty). The new, new, new wiring guy figured it out and tested it. Perfect. Sooooo . . . next week-end I test and tune . . . . IF, and it's a big IF . . . they don't shut down the local drag strip again for running a nude dancing show in the track side bar . Only in Bangkok! Sheesh!
