Spark issues.

[krayn]

Hi all.

I went for a dyno session yesterday, and it turns out i have an ignition problem. Its breaking down badly at anything over 10 psi. changed leads, still the same. At this stage im looking at replacing plugs, leads, caps and coils.
Does any one have any suggestions on what is a good upgrade without spending a lot. I thought the origional ignition system may have been ok up to 20 psi, maybe it is and i have a crook coil or something.
Im looking at changing from the oem coil to a bosch hec 717. Appreciate anyone input. cheers Kris

 

[gloverman]

I've run stock coils fine at 15 psi with the odd squirt on 20 no issues.

If I feel like changing I use LS1 coils with the built in ignitior. They even mount in the same position really well. Done quite a few with these now and am really happy with the results.

 

[krayn]

Thanks for that.. I only have four ignition drivers in my stand alone ecu( wolf 3d). Do you think i could pair up two of the coil on plug ls1 type and run it in wasted spark mode? Sounds messy to me... But if i had 8 ignition outputs, i would be going the ls1 coils for sure..

 

[gloverman]

I would have no issue pairing coils together if you wanted wasted spark.

I have done replacement of the two stock coils with two LS coils without issues on Boosted (and non boosted) engines. Just finished wiring one N/a one and just finishing off a twin turbo one. Photo of the N/A one is attached.

If I go for individual coils we have used 3uz coils so far. Fit nicely under stock covers. They may be a little small for your application and suffer heat soak issues.

 

[Zuffen]

I ran 8 LS1 coils on my boosted engine.

If I were in your position I'd run them in wasted spark mode.

 

[krayn]

Hi Rod,
Ones like these?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-L..._Accessories&hash=item3cee121a6e#ht_146wt_922


So i would also need another two ignition drivers as well. Looks like the ls1 type dont have built in drivers.

 

[gloverman]

LS1 coils do have the built in Ignition drivers (ignitors).

Wire like this ( sorry its the ECU competition but they have good drawings)

http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/I17 LS1 Igniter.pdf

As a note wiring is different from LS2 / LS7 coils.

New coil plugs are also avaliable so new looms are easy to make up.

 

[krayn]

Thanks fellas,
I think I will probly go this way of the ls1 coil. To repair the system i have it will require new leads, caps, rotors and coils. I think i could do it for less going the ls1 coil way. Cheers Kris.

 

[krayn]

Ive replaced the coils and it still seems to mis and fart at 5000 rpm. i convinced myself its not the spark leads as we swapped them over from another engine when i was at dyno shop and it made no difference.
I took all the leads off today and measured them. one was completly open circuit and both coil leads were not real good..... So its time for some leads.. What peoples experience with leads. I think i have read here that oem ones are the best. I have found NGK ones and eagle ones online. Not sure what to use. Im leaning towards NGK ones. if i can find a reasonable priced oem one, will go that way. Any advice appreciated... Cheers Kris.

 

[George_R]

Are you after Diagnostics or Throwing parts at it?
You can test the whole ignition system in no time with very little effort using a discharge tool which can be made easily out of any crap. Mine looks like this
https://c-a.d-cd.net/cff8428s-960.jpg

It can tell if the ignition system is fully ok, or which "channels" are either faulty or have degraded performance

 

[gloverman]

For leads I use genuine most of the time. They are well priced,( I sell them for around $200 over here) , they also come with some of the holders and clamps so fitment is really easy.
Sold quite a few eagles but I feel they are a bit average and fitment is only ok. I've also sold bosch , work well but still prefer genuine.

 

[stevieg]

What's your plug gap at? Champion copper #rc12yc gapped to 0.028" and you shouldn't have a problem to 20psi+

 

[krayn]

Thanks for the replies.
At the moment i have gapped plugs to .030". Made it a little better when i closed the gap up a bit. Running NGK bkr7e.
I think I will try and track down some genuine ones. Although im reading good reports on the NGK ones too.
George. Thanks for the pic. Is this tester like a go no go set up where if it jumps one gap but not the other, something is wrong. I seem to remember you posted something up about it some time ago.
Cheers kris.

 

[George_R]

Yes, that's the same thing. One gap just tests if any spark is there. The other gap is set to provide maximum load. 16..17mm in open air at normal atmospheric pressure makes for spark voltage of about 25 kV, that's slightly above the value that's seen in a N/A engine at max throttle, full load. If the spark at the higher gap is intermittent or weak, the channel under test is about to fail completely soon. By channel I mean the complete electrical circuit that fires a particular plug

 

[krayn]

I see. So you run this in series with the circuit your testing, ie take plug lead off, plug onto this variable gap device, then from device to earth, and run engine.
Ive orderd some leads today. Will have more idea after this weekend.

 

[George_R]

Yes exactly. One note. Though both gaps are adjustable, they are in fact fixed to some common values. The test device can come in a variety of shapes, for example it can be an old plug with removed side electrode