Death By Bass
New Member
how do you do it right?
apparently you want equal weights on the diagonally opposite wheels?
thanks!
apparently you want equal weights on the diagonally opposite wheels?
thanks!
Setting up coilovers?
- Thread starter Death By Bass
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
not really very helpful, are you... lol
but what about the bottom spring mounting plate?
should I have it so the springs are pretty much completely uncompressed when the car is jacked up? or should I preset the coilovers, so the springs are compressed a certain percent? THIS is what you're apparently meant to adjust to change the weight distribution.
i think thats a bad idea...
It depends on what you're doing if you want to preload your springs. I was just saying that you should just adjust the ride height of the shock, rather than try to adjust height by preloading the springs. My friend actually though that was how you were supposed to change the ride height. So I showed him how to just change the height and he still thinks I'm wrong. You prob don't have to worry too much about which springs you should put preload more than the other ones. I don't know how much of a difference it would make on such a heavy car. A lighter car you might feel the difference more though. I would prob do what stevechumo was talking about. Excuse my previous explanation.
stevechumo
Active Member
For me personally, I always set up 4 corners with the even height. The car always rides normally with no difference in cornering left or right. I'm not an expert about the geometry or scientific facts about the cross-sectional importance of the suspension. I only believe when all 4 corners have the even height, then the weight is distributed evenly. And this is a little of physic, too. Let's say if the front is higher, then the rear will contain more weight just like the seesaw, because the weight is pulled over when it's lowered. The shock/spring system is designed to handle the dampening and spread out the force evenly. A good design is to make the front and rear have identical weight distribution. That's why sports cars and race cars care about this more than normal cars. The even height also looks nice on the car, too.how do you do it right?
apparently you want equal weights on the diagonally opposite wheels?
thanks!
You want the front wheels to have an equal weight.
The rear should also have equal weights (it will be different total to the front pair)
With an offset driving position it is not possible to get equal corner weights.
Front rear weight distribution is dependent on the use of the vehicle.
A non aero open wheel race car is closer to 60% rear bias
Current F1 cars are around 54% rear bias
Even front engined sports race cars have more rear bias.
The rear should also have equal weights (it will be different total to the front pair)
With an offset driving position it is not possible to get equal corner weights.
Front rear weight distribution is dependent on the use of the vehicle.
A non aero open wheel race car is closer to 60% rear bias
Current F1 cars are around 54% rear bias
Even front engined sports race cars have more rear bias.
Death By Bass
New Member
not really very helpful, are you... lol
but what about the bottom spring mounting plate?
should I have it so the springs are pretty much completely uncompressed when the car is jacked up? or should I preset the coilovers, so the springs are compressed a certain percent? THIS is what you're apparently meant to adjust to change the weight distribution.
Death By Bass
New Member
JustenGT8
New Member
Bassy,
If you can get access to corner weighting scales life will be easier but if not then really all you can do is set the car to the height you like and pay cloise attention to get everything as exact as possible...don't go too low obviously.
Your coils should always be 'captive' at full drool and that shouldn't be a problem to achieve with your setup
If you can get access to corner weighting scales life will be easier but if not then really all you can do is set the car to the height you like and pay cloise attention to get everything as exact as possible...don't go too low obviously.
Your coils should always be 'captive' at full drool and that shouldn't be a problem to achieve with your setup
stevechumo
Active Member
DeathByBass,
Your coilover is nice and I never saw it before. What brand is it and how much does it cost?
I'm using the Tein and I didn't like to compress the springs when the car is off the ground. I only set the springs to touch enough the bottom spring seats and the top mount without them falling out. The SC300/400 doesn't have the equal height for front & rear, even the left and right aren't even. This happens to many SCs and no one seems to give the correct answer. Someones said it's the end links but that's not right, because both sides are installed the same way.
So in order for all corners to be even, each coilover will have different heights. The reason I didn't compress the springs is as above. The higher coilover will be stiffer than the lower one. My trick to raise the higher coilover is to install the extra nut (I think it's 17mm) and the flat washer on top of the bump washer that's located on shock rod, where it's wider and under the top mount. On top of the top mount will be the last nut. You can have up to extra 2 nuts just fine. The whole coilover will be as rigid as without it. If the height isn't enough, you can still compress the springs a little.
Your coilover is nice and I never saw it before. What brand is it and how much does it cost?
I'm using the Tein and I didn't like to compress the springs when the car is off the ground. I only set the springs to touch enough the bottom spring seats and the top mount without them falling out. The SC300/400 doesn't have the equal height for front & rear, even the left and right aren't even. This happens to many SCs and no one seems to give the correct answer. Someones said it's the end links but that's not right, because both sides are installed the same way.
So in order for all corners to be even, each coilover will have different heights. The reason I didn't compress the springs is as above. The higher coilover will be stiffer than the lower one. My trick to raise the higher coilover is to install the extra nut (I think it's 17mm) and the flat washer on top of the bump washer that's located on shock rod, where it's wider and under the top mount. On top of the top mount will be the last nut. You can have up to extra 2 nuts just fine. The whole coilover will be as rigid as without it. If the height isn't enough, you can still compress the springs a little.
JustenGT8
New Member
Bassy won't need to do that Steve as the shock body of his is height adjustable as well so you can keep the same spring compression on all and still adjust the height.
That said even with regular coilovers,, unless you are trying to keep ,the thing pretty high you won't have any noticeable difference in spring rate as the initial sag from the car weight will be greater than any 'tension' you apply in getting the heights equal.
That said even with regular coilovers,, unless you are trying to keep ,the thing pretty high you won't have any noticeable difference in spring rate as the initial sag from the car weight will be greater than any 'tension' you apply in getting the heights equal.
Lextreme II
Active Member
I just installed Tein Basic into my SC400 with 19" rims. Do you guys take driver weight in consideration?
Death By Bass
New Member
Lextreme II
Active Member
I think for us street driver doesnt really matter much, but to those pro racers 150 lbs on one side would play a huge role.
stevechumo
Active Member
In this case the adjustable dampening coilover comes into play. The driver corner can have the stiffer setting than the other 3 corners.
Death By Bass
New Member
i think thats a bad idea...
stevechumo
Active Member
But I think that's what they do. I might need to research on the pro racers, though.
It depends on what you're doing if you want to preload your springs. I was just saying that you should just adjust the ride height of the shock, rather than try to adjust height by preloading the springs. My friend actually though that was how you were supposed to change the ride height. So I showed him how to just change the height and he still thinks I'm wrong. You prob don't have to worry too much about which springs you should put preload more than the other ones. I don't know how much of a difference it would make on such a heavy car. A lighter car you might feel the difference more though. I would prob do what stevechumo was talking about. Excuse my previous explanation.
Death By Bass
New Member
I might just set it so the springs are compressed about 5mm with ne weight on them,
the coilovers only have about 5cm of shock travel, and the springs will compress around 30mm with just the weight of the car on them...
the coilovers only have about 5cm of shock travel, and the springs will compress around 30mm with just the weight of the car on them...
The only thing that changes when you adjust ride height by the spring abutment or the shock top is the amount of bump and droop travel available.
Shock top raised - less bump travel, more droop travel.
Spring abutment raised - more bump travel, less droop travel.
Spring 'preload' is relative to car weight and spring rate, and in 'normal' suspension is meaningless.
The only time 'preload' has an influence is when you have 'zero droop' suspension. That is when the shock shaft is fully extended at ride height and if you jack the car up the wheel instantly comes off the ground.
Corner weights will influence oversteer/understeer and 150lb difference side to side on a 2500 lb car will have a marked effect.
It would be a very 'ham fisted' driver that could not feel the difference on a 'back to back' test.
Bass
Just saw your post.
Adjust your spring abutment to get more bump travel. 20 mm is not enough. 30/35mm is more like it.
Shock top raised - less bump travel, more droop travel.
Spring abutment raised - more bump travel, less droop travel.
Spring 'preload' is relative to car weight and spring rate, and in 'normal' suspension is meaningless.
The only time 'preload' has an influence is when you have 'zero droop' suspension. That is when the shock shaft is fully extended at ride height and if you jack the car up the wheel instantly comes off the ground.
Corner weights will influence oversteer/understeer and 150lb difference side to side on a 2500 lb car will have a marked effect.
It would be a very 'ham fisted' driver that could not feel the difference on a 'back to back' test.
Bass
Just saw your post.
Adjust your spring abutment to get more bump travel. 20 mm is not enough. 30/35mm is more like it.
Death By Bass
New Member
Im going to start putting the coilovers in today...
rears first...
however, it should be noted, that I'm house sitting at the moment, and am about 40 minutes from my house and am staying here on my own....
if something goes wrong, I may have to put the car back together, just to drive it back home to get a nut, bolt, or tool... which would kinda suck...
wish me luck anyway!
I've been accessing the net while staying here via my mobile phone, and desktop PC...
should be nice and expensive!!!!
anyway, I got my windows tinted yesterday!
and you can see why I wanna put the coilovers in and raise it a bit.... although, I am kinda liking the look at this height...
rears first...
however, it should be noted, that I'm house sitting at the moment, and am about 40 minutes from my house and am staying here on my own....
if something goes wrong, I may have to put the car back together, just to drive it back home to get a nut, bolt, or tool... which would kinda suck...
wish me luck anyway!
I've been accessing the net while staying here via my mobile phone, and desktop PC...
should be nice and expensive!!!!
anyway, I got my windows tinted yesterday!
and you can see why I wanna put the coilovers in and raise it a bit.... although, I am kinda liking the look at this height...
Death By Bass
New Member
"just wanting to confirm that the HS series for the JZS147 do have helper springs, will bolt straight in, and that the strut brace can be kept."
" No they don't have helper springs in the JZS147 as they weren't required for this model.They bolt in but the car will require a wheel alignment and we recommend fitting by a suspension specialist.
Yes the strut brace is retained. "
"Tell your fitter to remove the spacers under the front tower brace."
anyone see a problem with the following picture, with the stock strut brace being retained, and the spacer removed from under it? and the nuts done up tight...
" No they don't have helper springs in the JZS147 as they weren't required for this model.They bolt in but the car will require a wheel alignment and we recommend fitting by a suspension specialist.
Yes the strut brace is retained. "
"Tell your fitter to remove the spacers under the front tower brace."
anyone see a problem with the following picture, with the stock strut brace being retained, and the spacer removed from under it? and the nuts done up tight...
