R-12 OR 134a
- Thread starter mshawari1
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Your compressor is most likely shot. You'll need to re-build it, or change it.
The lubricating oils found in the two are not compatible from one to another. You have to convert from one to the other. You ca't just plug in & fill with whatever you want.
For future refferance, when you have an R12 system that's serviceable but requires a re-fill. Use a product found on the internet called Freeze 12 to fill it.
The lubricating oils found in the two are not compatible from one to another. You have to convert from one to the other. You ca't just plug in & fill with whatever you want.
For future refferance, when you have an R12 system that's serviceable but requires a re-fill. Use a product found on the internet called Freeze 12 to fill it.
Maingear
New Member
- Messages
- 14
- Location
- Memphis area
I converted a 92 Toyota pickup two months ago.
I removed the A/C pack from the cabin, all lines, compressor and condenser. Inspected all components for servicability.
Flushed all lines, condenser, evaporator, and compressor with odorless mineral spirits. ($4)
- Ensured all residual had evaporated and the compressor was free of solvent before reassembly. Turn the shaft slowly - may cause solvent to shoot from one of the compressor's ports and could get into someone's eyes. Also note that the expansion valve in the evaporator has a piece that may fall out upon disassembly, simply be aware that it is there
I changed All o-rings to the "green kind" (kit-$35 USD)
Lines are easly crossthreaded and overtorqued. Use an additional wrench to stall out torque, so lines will not twist under torque.
Ester based oil is compatible with both 12 and 134a. I pored the oil (check maintenance manual for specified amount) and leak detection dye directly into the compressor's low pressure hose and rotated the shaft a few turns before final connection of the hoses. (dye is vivid under a black light when viewed through a yellow filter)
Replaced the dryer.($20)
Pulled a vacuum, charged the system with a can and a half of 134a.
System is running very well. Heat is need on trips over 20 minutes, and at night.
I removed the A/C pack from the cabin, all lines, compressor and condenser. Inspected all components for servicability.
Flushed all lines, condenser, evaporator, and compressor with odorless mineral spirits. ($4)
- Ensured all residual had evaporated and the compressor was free of solvent before reassembly. Turn the shaft slowly - may cause solvent to shoot from one of the compressor's ports and could get into someone's eyes. Also note that the expansion valve in the evaporator has a piece that may fall out upon disassembly, simply be aware that it is there
I changed All o-rings to the "green kind" (kit-$35 USD)
Lines are easly crossthreaded and overtorqued. Use an additional wrench to stall out torque, so lines will not twist under torque.
Ester based oil is compatible with both 12 and 134a. I pored the oil (check maintenance manual for specified amount) and leak detection dye directly into the compressor's low pressure hose and rotated the shaft a few turns before final connection of the hoses. (dye is vivid under a black light when viewed through a yellow filter)
Replaced the dryer.($20)
Pulled a vacuum, charged the system with a can and a half of 134a.
System is running very well. Heat is need on trips over 20 minutes, and at night.
UZZ30-Québec
New Member
- Messages
- 488
- Location
- St-Jean sur Richlieu, Québec, Canada
Duracool (R-20 i think) is better than 134-A from what i've been told. Smoother for the compressors while giving a better result. And it's less volatile than the 134-A so the duracool will need a bigger hole in the system to leak.