Project 1/2uzfe

[spf_lexus]

OK to start off, I am going nuts with extra time and decided to start a swap that I always thought would be sweet. I want 4.7 block with 4.0 heads and 4.0 rods (1991 rods). Lextreme did his and N/A output was a little over 300crank. I plan on sourcing an extra set of oem 1uz rods and a complete tundra/sequoia/LS470 long block. I have heard it's possible but just wanted to ask around, will the 1u rods swap over to the 2uz crank? Are bearings interchangeable for both? I suppose the 4.0 rods will not affect stroke? Just a bore difference between the 2 right? If you see anything below that should be in there please tell me!

parts list besides block:

-MLS lo comp gaskets
-ARP head studs
-ARP main studs
-1uz rods
-new OEM rings
-new OEM bearings
-Lextreme motor mounts

My 1uz heads have 5k on fresh valve job/resurface so reusing as-is. I plan on keeping 7psi supercharged for reasons regarding tranny. 200k on a341 but running strong so I don't want anything higher than 350rwhp until next semester when i have access to our schools transmission lab. Plan for rebuild with valve body and freightliner T-cooler


Would anyone recommend anything not listed? I know I am sorta downgrading from 6-bolt to 2-bolt but the boost wont ever get above 9-10psi max.





Also, does anyone know how wide the 2uz block is? only reason i'm asking is I plan to drive back to Colorado with my longblock riding shotgun I have no passenger seat so I have lots of room.

 

[stevechumo]

I compared the 1UZ and the 2UZ rods and they're interchangeable. You may ask Lextreme and he has all kinds of rods available.

 

[ihiryu]

lol, i would assume it's a bit wider than a 1u, but I don't even know how you'd fit a 1u in a LS to begin with

 

[spf_lexus]

Well for starters the 1uz was introduced to the world in the LS400, this is the car most swapped 1uz's come from lol. Also, the 1uz/2uz/3uz all share a common block, thats why I am swapping to the heavier iron block for the displacement bump. I got some replies and the 4.7 is no diff than 4.0, just motor mount setups.

 

[XR8tt]

Yes the bore changed and the pin height in piston changed with bigger stroke... Rods are interchangable.. BUT the G.M / aftermarket rods are so cheap I would fit them from Lextreme. Esp if your stateside...

 

[Lextreme II]

I suggest you guys read this.
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6313

and

http://lextreme.com/2uzfe_block_swap.html

 

[spf_lexus]

You know me Lex, I have read every article on your site I was looking at your spec sheet and remembered the chevy rods were a cheap upgrade and I will probably substitute for 1uz rods. Also, how strong are 2uz pistons? I dont really want to raise boost anytime soon and 7-9psi is my ceiling.


This swap is a lot of hands on work... I have taken a few engines apart and put back together and I feel confident doing this. I plan to measure the entire engine and gauge new bearings/rings accordingly but don't feel pistons are needed unless damaged or extremely weak as OEM.

I figure the only real "upgrades" this swap will get is rods/MLS gaskets and arp hardware

 

[Lextreme II]

You can use the stock 1uzfe rods and 2uzfe pistons. However, it is not the best choice because 2uzfe and 1uzfe combustion chambers were designed differently. Secondly, the 1uzfe rods are little heavier then 2uzfe rods so balancing and blueprinting is required. With all of the work, I think it is wise to get forged pistons too. Only few hundred dollars more.

I have used chevy rods with custom pistons, but chevy rods will not work on stock 2uzfe pistons. I really dont think there is a short cut.

 

[spf_lexus]

hmm, thanks for the answer on a potential problem. SO if i chose to run Ross pistons w/ chevy rods the balancing/blueprinting would not be required? Also, would OEM rings/bearings be tough enough for a higher hp engine?

 

[Lextreme II]

hmm, thanks for the answer on a potential problem. SO if i chose to run Ross pistons w/ chevy rods the balancing/blueprinting would not be required? Also, would OEM rings/bearings be tough enough for a higher hp engine?

Regardless the type of rods you will be using, you need to balance the whole assembly. I dont think u need the H beam rods. Over kill for sure. I think just pistons with 1uzfe rods will be good for 500 bhp. I recommend aftermarket bearings.

 

[spf_lexus]

Good point, forgot Justin is rocking his at 500hp. Since this is my first real build, I have never had to balance the rotating assembly, I would guess thats a machine shop type job? Or specialty shop right? Any ideas on ball park pricing for this?

 

[stevechumo]

You only need Lextreme forged pistons. I think stock 1UZ rods from early years will be good enough. Balancing and blue printing cost several hundred bucks from the machine shops.

 

[Lextreme II]

When u buy the block make sure the sleeves are not damage. Double check everything because it is very common to see broken 2uzfe rods. Secondly, make sure you dont get 2004 to 2006 2uzfe. They are VVTi and have extra oil gallery. However, you can plug them up too. 2004 to 2006 2uzfe has oil squirters.

 

[spf_lexus]

Thanks for the support guys. OK so before 2004 is non vvti, check. I have not opened up and checked my block but I believe the 1990 1uz HAS oil squirter's right? I will check all rods, and check to see if any sleeves have scoring/cuts, signs of abuse.

Does anyone know how strong 2uz pistons are? I plan for the blueprint after everything is put together as a last step. Lex, if you were to get your engine blueprinted, where would you go and how much would it be? (ball park).





BTW!! I got a reply from TIAL sport and they said my BOV needs a special BOV spring not advertised on their site. It's designed specially for centrifugal setups, using a 3psi spring to keep it open at all times (except boost). This explains why my cut springs were getting me closer but not solved.

 

[XR8tt]

High power demands a good ECU..
There's a reason why Motec is so expensive..
http://www.motec.com.au/products/productoverview/
Imo thats 99% why Justen's engine stays together...
Tmk he has a Motec in there with all the right bits for fuel delivery etc..

 

[stevechumo]

Thanks for the support guys. OK so before 2004 is non vvti, check. I have not opened up and checked my block but I believe the 1990 1uz HAS oil squirter's right? I will check all rods, and check to see if any sleeves have scoring/cuts, signs of abuse. ..

The 1UZ doesn't have oil squirters. Actually, I think it could be benefitial only if you run high boost. Otherwise, peace will still be with you. The rods and engine sleeves should be ok, but new pistons are the must. If you intend to run below 9 psi, stay with stock compression and forged pistons. You don't need low compression pistons, because you'll lose hp with low compression pistons.

 

[spf_lexus]

My idea keeps changing and changing When I come home this x-mas and start work I will "most likely" pick up the 2u block/1uz rods and buy the MAFtPro controller, and the MAP conversion and start from there. It isn't motec, but it's very affordable and has useful features for the cash. Kc95's rocking it right now and said the MAP swap cured a lot of problems on his centri.

 

[spf_lexus]

I bored and honed a chevy 307 in class today. I used a boring bar and realized how easy it is. Does anyone know if the 4.7l can be bored to 5.0? I just want the bump from boring the stock sleeves and not having to replace them with expensive aftermarket. If I can get corresponding pistons/rings and the OK on the strength of the steel liners I plan to overbore. Figure a 5.0 quad cam with 1uz heads w/ procharger I should be set with low end grunt and high end grunt.

 

[stevechumo]

I bored and honed a chevy 307 in class today. I used a boring bar and realized how easy it is. Does anyone know if the 4.7l can be bored to 5.0? I just want the bump from boring the stock sleeves and not having to replace them with expensive aftermarket. If I can get corresponding pistons/rings and the OK on the strength of the steel liners I plan to overbore. Figure a 5.0 quad cam with 1uz heads w/ procharger I should be set with low end grunt and high end grunt.

I love boring/honing the cylinders. Just a good hand drill, a honing tool with variable grids, a cylinder gauge, and steady hands are good enough.

That sounds good. But I don't think the stock heads can handle that much combustion. The stock heads have smaller valves that may not expend that much exhaust gas. Unless you modified the heads or use the VVTI heads, then I wouldn't risk that.

 

[XR8tt]

The early std rods had an oil hole that squarted oil up on thrust side of bore and piston.. Personally a good tune keeps piston heat at safe levels..
In high boosted engines some meth injection helps cooling etc