Newby from Melbourne Oz.

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Gertbuilt

New Member
Messages
8
Location
Wallan
Hi All,
Have been looking in here from time to time and have finally registered and joined you all. I am about to begin my eighth decade of being alive in one month, but don't let that fool ya. I still spend most of my waking hours in the shed building stuff. Have worked as a mechanic (cars and bikes) most of my life and for the last 12 years have been building custom trikes, which brings me to the relevance of my participation on this forum.

The current project is a 1uzfe engined trike, out of a 93 Celsior. The motor I am told has about 150k on it and to date I have not started it. I bought it in a front cut that had been ratted for a few bits and then left in the weather for a couple of years, so the plastics have gone brittle and fragile, and the alloy bits looked hideous. I've cleaned it up pretty good now though.

Originally I was going to pay a guy $1000 to hook up the original computer to the mangled loom to get it running, but I decided to spend a bit more (not much) and use a Megasquirt 11 for the engine, and the Megashift with GPIO for the trans. and have a go at doing it myself. Getting rid of a load of ugly wiring, brackets and tubing is a bonus because the engine will be fully exposed and has to look pretty.

First job is getting the engine going. They tell you when you buy one of these units that it's a DIY set up, and that you have to do you homework in order to get a successful outcome. That's what I've been doing for weeks, reading and absorbing everything I can find on the internet and You tube. I'm starting to get a fairly clear picture of what needs to be done.

The wiring is fairly straight forward except for a couple of things, (hooking up the 1UZ 4 wire TPS and the 6 wire IAC) but I'm sure that someone will know how to deal with this.

Because the engine is not in a car that has to be emissions compliant, I am able to simplify it's function substantially. There are a lot of small coolant and vacuum hoses that can probably be dispensed with once I find out exactly what their function was.

About another week and I'll be ready to try and fire it up.
 
Welcome to the forum. The Megasquirts are great products and their wiring is easy to follow, unlike the Toyota sensors. I've been doing an MS3 install and found the IAC to be the biggest problem area. Those that have them connected all seem to use different methods with some working and others not. For me I haven't yet got the motor back in the car but I'll leave the IAC till then.

For the TPS only 3 of the pins are used. A positive, a negative and the MS. I haven't got my drawing with me but I can post tomorrow which is which.

Happy birthday for next month.
 
Crambo I'd be happy for you to check out my project. I'm located in Wallan Vic. Where are you?
HR lover I did what you said with the TPS and hooked up all but the "idle" pin. The relay board only has three connections for the TPS and I figured I could do without the idle fine control. The IAC seems to have worked out I think. The centre two wires are 12V+ switched, and the rest are numbered S1,2,3 and 4. The relay board has corresponding #'s. Too easy, and that's what makes me a little uneasy.

The next part of the learning curve is with the ignition connections, and I just discovered that there are fairly explicit instructions on the invoice that came with the goods. I have a close mate who is a TV technician, so he understands most of the acronyms and electronics language. It seems that I have to connect the VR sensor from the crank and a Cam VR as well.

Are you doing the MS3 on a 1uz? Have you done a Megasquirt before? It sure would be good to get a bit of feedback from someone who has successfully got the v8 going on one of these units.

XR8tt because my engine is from a Celsior and it had traction control, it had that complex double throttle body with a servo motor and two TPS units. I only wanted a simple throttle body with one throttle plate and a single TPS, so I stripped all the unnecessary bits off it, got the angle grinder out and remove all the superfluous lumps and bumps and then set it up in the lathe, cleaned it up, shortened it and machined a nice end on it for a suitable rubber mount for the air cleaner. A bit of work but cheaper than replacing it.
 
Yea they are big with twin butterflies..
I was meaning a second hand Holden T.B
not a billet .. So sensors may be more compliant to Ms ?
 
It's done now, but you're right, it would have been a lot less work, and I probably would also saved a lot of time that I spent researching which wires to leave out.

Next time for sure.
 
XR8tt. Not wishing to side track this discussion, but how easy/effective is it to use a Holden TB. With its TPS and IAC built in it would be easier, but is it the same size and how close are the bolt holes. Any pictures?

Gertbuilt. Good to hear your working thru the wiring. The IAC 12V to the centre pins may not be needed if some of the other posts I've read are true. That is how the factory wires are but the MS3 appears to be different. As mine is not running I cannot comment further.
 
Bought a new lap top just for the tuning. Downloaded "Tuner Studio" and installed all the drivers. Even bought a new wireless "Dongle" to connect to the internet. Crikey what a drama that was. Nine pm at the local Safeway supermarket, and the old damsel serving me wanted photo ID, and my full personal information. Geez I just want to go on the internet, not join the bloody secret service. Anyway it then took a couple of days of hair pulling frustration, and the enlistment of a couple of computer savvy "nerds" (good friends) just to get the Tuner studio program to connect with the ECU.

But at last everything appears to be in place now and I am ready to start the process but another problem has manifested to hold up the works. There is no engine speed showing on the gauge panel when cranking. This means that nothing will work because as far as the tuning program is concerned, the engine is not cranking.

Double checked all connections, removed the crank VR sensor and cleaned it.
AC cranking voltage from Crank VR is 0.5v.
Even took the lid off the preassembled ECU to check the configuration and make sure the relevant jumpers were in place (they were) and the little screws in the dashpot thingies were turned right out.

Went through the various settings on the program that seemed relative, and eventually was able to get a very brief intermittent engine speed reading(for about .2 of a second) and then nothing.

Can anyone tell me the recommended air gap of the Crank VR to trigger wheel, and if reducing this would increase cranking voltage? I believe that MS2 needs at least 1 volt during cranking.

I read on another forum that the VR signal can easily be amplified with an op amp and 2 resistors. They might as well have said that in Swahili. It would be just as clear to me. Does anyone have some understanding of this?
 
Hi there Gertbuilt
I am in the process of DIY building a MS 3 to fit onto a 3uz. I’m not as far as connecting to the engine yet.
Apparently the setting up of the sensors is a bit finicky.
Join the MS 2 forum and post your problems there. The guys are very knowledgeable and helpful. :)
 
If you're ever up this way Crambo would love to chew the fat.

I removed the VR crank sensor and measured the air gap to the trigger wheel.
1.7mm!. Since there is no adjustment, I carefully removed about half a mm from the mounting surface of the VR and put it back and checked the cranking voltage. It went up to 1.1v. But alas still no RPM readout.
I hooked up the Jim Stim test apparatus which produces replicas of all the relevant signals from sensors, and even that failed to produce an RPM readout. But then I read that the Jim Stim is not able to send the correct signal for RPM (despite there being two RPM adjustment "pots" on the Jim Stim).

My research then came up with a suggestion of fitting a 1uf Cap in series with the secondary VR. Someone else also suggested a pair of resistors and a "cop" something. Looks like a trip to Melbourne to Jaycar for some electronics bits. None of this should be necessary.

I've sent a message to the tech adviser at Megasquirt. We'll see what he comes up with.

Geez this is becoming a headache.
 
I thought about the Hall effect sensors. It seems they are a much better option than the VR sensors. Thing is the ECU is specially set up to deal with the VR's. It has "Zeal VR conditioner" built into it that changes the waveform to a square wave that the ECU can use. I don't know if I can just change to Hall without major ECU mods. If I could I would.

Have now purchased a Cro Ocilloscope and have just started learning how to drive it and have established that both VR's from the crank and cam are working as designed. No solutions yet from the DIY Autotune tech adviser but he's working on it. I've now spent countless hours on the net looking for solutions and it appears that the VR problem I have is indeed ubiquitous in the MS world.

It seems that I have a "Sync" problem. With the 12 tooth crank trigger, and the one tooth cam trigger (wheels) there are apparently 4 combinations of settings with respect to "rising edge" and "falling edge" on the trigger wheels. I can set the crank trigger wheel to either, but cannot see how to change this on the cam trigger wheel. Been through "Basic setup" a hundred times on Tuner Studio without success.

I'll have to look at that MS2 Forum.
 
Hi Gertbuild

You can try different combinations of the variables until you find the correct ones.
This is something I found from the MS forum:
"Not synching:
-Only one of the two cam sensors will work properly. For the 2JZ that is the rear sensor. I think it's 5 degrees BTDC.
- Trigger angle/offset is 5 degrees (for me).
-The cam sensor has to be wired in reverse to how the factory ECU has it wired.
-The crank sensor is wired the same as the factory ECU.
-Ignition input is rising edge, second trigger is falling edge.
-The pots shouldn't need adjusting from fully CCW, or if they do, not by much. Try to eliminate the source of noise first."

So try using the other cam sensor, swapping the two wires of each sensor in turn and adjusting the pots a bit.

Secret is to change only one variable at a time otherwise you will get lost completely.

Good luck!
 
It's been a while since I put my nose in here, but not much has changed. It's still not going and in fact I am unable to get past first base.

Have been trying to deal with this in between other jobs and the technical adviser at DIY Autotune has been really helpful, but with no success yet. At the moment he is studying all the files on the tuning program that I sent him about three weeks ago. I had a series of errors come up and he had never heard of them. He said he was going to try and load the information I had sent him into an ECU and see what happened. No word back yet. Trying to be patient.

I've got a few pics but they were all taken in bad light, so I will take the trike off the stands it is on and wheel it outside to take a few clearer photos. Stay tuned.

Hiluxfan, everything and more that you have suggested has been tried to no avail. I'm starting to think that there may be an underlying problem with the ECU itself. I have the Jim Stim, and the technical advisor suggested I try that with some "imaginative jumpering". ?????????? Yeah right!
Completely out of my field of expertise.

I have the following sensors. Air temp, engine temp, Throttle position, MAP (built into the unit), Crank angle VR and Cam angle VR. The ECU is fitted with a Zeal VR conditioner to change the wave form from the crank sensor. There is none supplied for the cam angle sensor. The ECU is not reading the Cam sensor. I dont think I am going to get anywhere till that situation is rectified, but so far the tech adviser at DIY has not addressed this.

Not much hair left.

I've still got the original Celsior ECU. If I can get a wiring diagram to connect it I may just do that.
 
Me call the MS megashit
Maybe some job easy
Maybe some hard and u job hard and too much stress so run over MS with car
If no start first try then no one can try give u help very hard
 


Top