my 1UZ RA28GT

[sheepers]

i have gained heaps of help from the people on this forum and i thought id better post up a thread so you can see what I'm doing and maybe give someone some inspiration on their project.
ill skip the painting of the shell and start with the 1UZ relevant bits.


i stuck te 8 in the hole to see what the hell ive let myself in for.
the motor is sitting on the rack, which it turns out is to high in relation to the crossmember anyway. i haven't measured the bump steer (which is the first thing ill be doing when i take the motor back out) but i reckon its gruesome!!
i didnt do the R&P conversion, it was like that when i bought it and its not good. my main decision at this point is do i stick with whats there and try to make it work for both the motor and the steering geometry or do i start again??? time will tell.
anywho, on to the pics







this is with the fame of my other bonnet on the top. even though the motor will go down by about 40mm it still fits under the bonnet as it is.



so yea, the drivers side extractor is going to be "interesting" but not to bad for a first try.

 

[sheepers]

i had to ditch the crossmember and rack that was in the car when i bought it. i measured the bump steer and got 13mm of toe in at 50mm of travel, less than ideal.
so, i bought an TE71 powersteer rack and crossmember off tardme and used that.
i measured it all up and found that it needed to be spaced down by 25mm to get to LCA inner mounting points back to factory, but since i wanted to get the motor as low as possible i went another 15mm bellow this (which is the same as my RA23) giving a total of 40mm.
this is the crossmember shortened and with the spacers welded on it.



the corners are cut at an angle to clear the sway bar.
once i had this sorted it was time to make mounts for the motor and box and bolt the thing down.
nothing too exciting really, i cut the mounts off the crossmember that are shown above, used the original motor mounts and just made some little platforms for them to sit on. i used the gearbox mount that came with the box, not sure what its out of but fit a bit better than the standard RA one and extended the floor mounting position using a bit of 50 x 50 angle welded to the floor.

motor bolted down,





with the motor where it is and the new rack in place i have a bit more room for the drivers side extractors. its still going to be tight but not as bad as before.
ive now got the motor in a million bits replacing the cam belt and the waterpump and also taking the loom out so i can chop out the bits i don't need and get it all sorted to run.

 

[sheepers]

the motor is all back together and ready to go. traction control gear is all gone from the TB, loom is all stripped and back on the motor. hydraulic fan drive is gone and the cambelt and water pump are new.
ive sorted the rack and the crossmember and thats all ready to go. new fuel lines are in as well as brake and clutch lines.
i need to make the hoses to go to and from the power steer pump and make up some heat shields for where the zorst goes past the fuel lines.
manifold flanges are being made and ill be making extractors this week.
im aiming to have the extractors finished by next weekend. then ill get them stress relived and coated.
then the motor can go in for the final time.


here are some pics so you can see the lushness.
new fuel lines and a heat sheild to protect them from the zorst.


crossmember and mounts with heat shields (factory). i re-filed the flats on the rack so i could lay it back slightly towards the fire wall. this gives me heaps more room for the zorst and it gets the fluid outlet pipe away from the sump. bit hard to tell but thats how its sitting.


motor with a shiny coat of paint and ready to go back in (again) dog is unimpressed.


motor in the hole again.
ive made up some rails that hang down from the cam cover bolts and are the same shape and in the same place as the chassis rails. this way i can bolt them to the motor when its on the stand and have a good idea of where the rails and steering are when im making the exhaust.

i take delivery of a beautiful new AC/DC tig welder tomorrow. its got variable everything and a foot control. im looking forward to making some more alloy bits without having to struggle welding using DC only...
with this new toy ill make the drivers side heat shield (for the rack boot and fluid inlet outlet.) and lots of other fun stuff like catch cans and swirl pots and such.

 

[sheepers]

passengers side finished bar O2 sensor and some brackets.
after dinner ill go and finish the drivers side, or at least get a bit closer to finished.

end of the pipes with transition pieces welded on.

collector tacked in place.
finished item.


right then, its off back to the shed for me.
sheepers.

 

[sheepers]

filmed on location, using my phone just moments ago.
takes a little while to load but it gives you an idea of the sound.


most of the engine bay wiring is finished. got idle speed control valve working, it idles very well now, even without any water.
checked rev counter and it reading right. got temp gauge hooked up, reverse lights, alternator, all that ****.
pretty happy with it all so far.
i guess the next step is to get a radiator set up and put some water in it and see what happens.

pic. wires almost finished, still got the white wire to re locate (had no appropriate gauge wire for that) and a few little bits but its starting to look pretty good.



and thats where im at now.
if you need some info on this particular swap just ask.

sheepers.

 

[Tacoma_Kyle]

Very nice and thorough job explaining most of the stuff.

How much room you got for the radiator? WHat radiator are you planning on anyway? I read on Toymods that someone said A70 radiators will dimensionally fit, but obviously mods need to be made.

In my car the limiter to how far the engine got back was the (RA24) brake booster conflicting with the valve cover. My car was almost drivable (well not the suspension lol) but then I decided to do it all over different. But in a good way. (multi link IRS and IFS from a MA70)

 

[sheepers]

the radiator support panel has been cut back and the front chassis rail has been stepped down. the radiator sits directly in front of the factory mounting. there is plenty of room for the rad and a 16" fan.
the radiator is custom made, i cant remember the size exactly but i think its 450 x 600 x 3 row??
something like that.

my car has an R32 GTR rear sub frame in it with the full IRS.
its far from finished but the basics are there.

sheepers.

 

[WDoherty]

awesome project, i will get another ra29 some day, i love the looks of these cars.

 

[sheepers]

lots has happend since last i posted.
ill let the photos do the talking.



















what you reckon???

your pal sheepers.

 

[sheepers]

 

[spf_lexus]

Awesome build . Those headers are amazing, I would love to hear a sound clip of this car in action.

 

[spf_lexus]

nvm, found them!

 

[bigdaddeywalt]

Beautiful job and a Beautiful car, you my friend have great taste. One of my oldfavorite cars of all time. Keep up the great work!

 

[rising sun]

Beautiful indeed. If mine is half as good as this when it is finished then I will be extremely happy!!!

 

[sheepers]

here is the finished subframe.


this is the finished item.
arms are HPC silver, new nolithane bushes, rear diff cover is HPC red (mandatory for certification is a red diff) and the cradle is just spray bomb black.

 

[sheepers]

some pics of the subframe in the car.

 

[mshawari1]

Beautiful car !!

 

[cribbj]

Beautiful car !!

+1! (and a few more for the 10 character min)

 

[thingcall]

looking really good it surly has inspire me.

 

[sheepers]

thanks guys.
sorry i haven't posted in a while.
if you have any questions please ask.

your pal,
sheepers.