More ISCV questions (sorry)

[cuh8er]

OK,
After searching, it seems 17 deg at idle is normal, so maybe 20deg is ok? Especially when it's not running on all cylinders?

I jumpered TE1 and E1 and timing dropped down to 10deg. It sounded a lot better, but still not perfect. Even up in the rev range you can still faintly hear that it's not firing on all cylinders.

The only things I can think of now are coils or a blown head gasket (or similar)

Is there no way my Bosch 044 is making it run rich? I heard on the 2JZ the return line from the FPR causes a bottleneck as it can't return the fuel to the tank. Cant handle the increased flow.

Cheers

 

[cjsupra90]

Yeah, the timing is high to help stablize the engine. Plus the ECU advances time when the engine is cold. From what you said, while in diag mode it went to 10* which is exactly what it should be so all is good there......

I've never heard of there being issues with fuel return. If it were running to rich, all the plugs would be fouled and the problem wouldn't be isolated to two cylinders.

Have you had the cam covers off by chance????

This is a long shot here but pull the cam cover for that side (left bank) and have a look at the cam lobes and make sure there there isn't anything wrong with the lobes for the #3 and #5 cylinders like being rounded off (especailly on the intake cam)... I doubt that your going to find anything but it wound hurt to check

Another thing, like Rod said, your copper plugs. The are cheap and resist fouling very well.

 

[cuh8er]

Just thought i'd post up the results.
Firstly,

If it were running to rich, all the plugs would be fouled and the problem wouldn't be isolated to two cylinders.

Issues weren't only isolated to 3 and 5. Also 2 and 4 were fouling up in a big way. I eventually traced the problem to a leaky cold start injector. I think what was happening was the injector was leaking and fuel was dribbling down and in through the intake valves on the centre two cylinders. So I plugged the CSI feed as I don't need it really anyway.

I then did a compression test on number 7 (as it's the only cylinder that I hadn't done to this point).
Compression gauge didn't even move.
After having a panic attack, I removed the cam cover to find this

You can't see it in the pic but the bucket was stuck down and thus opening the valve.
The entire cam lobe was covered in a gammy rusty coating. The PCV valve had leaked at some point in the engines life and water had found it's way in.

Pulled the cams out and cleaned them up. Surprisingly, they came up very good. Re-assembled the whole thing and kicked it over.
Straight away it bounced into a nice, steady burble. I have no tacho as yet, but as far as i'm concerned, it's perfect now. Very happy with it now. When I have a few weeks, i'll pull the engine and do a proper fix. New cams/buckets etc.

Anyways, cheers to everyone who helped, especially CJ. If you're ever down under mate I owe you a beer that's for sure.

Cheers

 

[Zuffen]

All of us smarties should have thought of the CSV.

Stuck valves and injectors are not uncommon on engines that have sat for a while.

I'd be inclined to leave the cam and see what it does. If it gets noisy I'd worry about it if not leave it.

 

[cuh8er]

Ok,
Posting in this old thread to save making a new one (and so previous people who helped me get notification that i'm still having issues....!)

Long story short, after stressing for weeks on end trying to get the last engine going, I lost it due to no oil pressure (I think). The engine siezed after 25 mins of driving and I am thinking this was due to me mixing up the hoses to my remote oil filter. The Z418 had an anti drainback valve in it and i'm thinking it was just deadheading the oil pump, and thus no flow. I was pressed for time and didn't have an oil pressure light hooked up so I had no idea what was happening.

The engine siezed in the bottom end, looks to be crank bearing related at this point....

I have sourced a new engine and transferred all of the wiring/sensors/new bits over to it. Slotted it in, and fired it up. Minus remote mounted oil filter and it now sports an oil pressure light, which works.

Now the reason for this post is i'm having an idle problem, where by the engine starts fine cold, then after a minute or two, begins to drop it's idle, and then it struggles. Idle is fine for 7-8 seconds, then it dips low and corrects itself. After a minute or two more, it'll stall.

I'm worried a little now because the way it's behaving now is *similar* to the way it was behaving, just before it siezed halfway up the highway. I'm thinking as the engine was turning, without oil it was getting very tight and that is what was causing the erratic idle.

Few questions I have are.
1. What 'comes in' a minute or so after starting a cold engine that may affect idle? (I have spare ISCV's, and have tried these)
2. My oil pressure light is switching off a second after starting the engine, is there any way to be sure I have oil pressure?

To recap, it has new plugs, leads, ISCV, rotors, caps, ecu temp sensor, timing belt and fresh injectors.
Asking once again, for people to put their thinking caps on. Hopefully this one is an easy fix and I can get down to driving the thing!

 

[markstoys]

Ok,


I lost it due to no oil pressure (I think). The engine siezed after 25 mins of driving and I am thinking this was due to me mixing up the hoses to my remote oil filter. The Z418 had an anti drainback valve in it and i'm thinking it was just deadheading the oil pump, and thus no flow. I was pressed for time and didn't have an oil pressure light hooked up so I had no idea what was happening.

I did the exact same thing last week--although I wasn't driving mine, just idling it in the garage. As soon as it started making noise I shut it off. I thought I hadn't put the pickup tube back in correctly, so I took the sump off--it wasn't until I saw the pickup properly installed I realized the oil hoses were backwards. On the bright side, I found a 10mm socket still attached to one of the pickup bolts--so something good came of removing the sump. And the motor seems fine now that it's getting oil.

Mark

 

[cuh8er]

That'a the thing. The new engine sounds mint. Can't fault it.
But due to my last mishap, i'm scared to even start it now until I know the thing is getting oil.

Even with the hoses around the wrong way, I would have thought that the bypass valve in the oil pump would have opened and still allowed oil to get to the engine....? Anyone care to comment on this?

Back to the idle problem though, any ideas what could cause idle issues after the engine has some heat in it....? I thought of oxy sensors seeing as they are only 'switched in' after the car is warm. Possibility?

Cheers all

 

[cuh8er]

This thing is really starting to **** me now. Get this.
Took the car for a real big drive this arvo. Did 50 odd kilometers in it, with it stalling at every set of lights, stop sign and even during down changes.

Parked up for a few hours and the engine had enough time to cool down well.

Started the engine and did another 50 odd kilometers except this time, the engine was FAULTLESS. Didn't stall once, not even a blip in the idle revs. God back home after this magic drive and turned the car off. Just for kicks, I fired it back up straight away, just to see what it would do, and it was back to stalling again, struggled to even hold idle a lot of the time.

WHAT could possible be causing this....?!!?!!??

I don't even know where to begin, obviously it can run fine as it proved this arvo, but what's the go? Any leads at all guys?

Please help!!!!!

 

[earthman]

Hey Cuh8er,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this one? my vehicle is now displaying similar symptoms. I feel your pain as it is bloody frustrating. I have changed the AFM, cleaned the ISC, checked for vacuum leaks, no codes on the ECU, and am pretty sure it is not a fuel issue as it runs the same on Petrol and LPG.

I am going to try the ECU water temp sensor next: $80.30 from toyota and they have to order it from Japan..... 3 weeks.

thanks mate

 

[cuh8er]

Hey Cuh8er,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this one? my vehicle is now displaying similar symptoms. I feel your pain as it is bloody frustrating. I have changed the AFM, cleaned the ISC, checked for vacuum leaks, no codes on the ECU, and am pretty sure it is not a fuel issue as it runs the same on Petrol and LPG.

I am going to try the ECU water temp sensor next: $80.30 from toyota and they have to order it from Japan..... 3 weeks.

thanks mate

I did mate, I was running it without the air filter box attached.
Once I bolted it up, no more issues at all.
Wierd.