MK4 Supra, 1UZ tt and T56

[stevieg]

any chance of information regarding your MS setup? ie mods required, code etc?


steve

 

[fredio54]

He's at work so I can answer that for you

12 - 1 on crank, the end

I think there is a picture or two somewhere in the thread? It's just a basic ms1 setup. Not sure which code he has.

Fred.

 

[stevieg]

He's at work so I can answer that for you

12 - 1 on crank, the end

I think there is a picture or two somewhere in the thread? It's just a basic ms1 setup. Not sure which code he has.

Fred.

ahh ok, EDIS then? did they ever manage to get spark-cut rev limit working on the EDIS? or is it still limited to a minimum of 10deg?

steve

 

[em_knaps]

Hey Steve,

Fred is correct but to elaborate,

I ground a tooth off the crank sensor and use 2 wasted spark coils and ignitors from a subaru.

I had used these coils on a previous megasquirt conversion and found them easy to use (turbocharged Aircooled Citroen)

the distributors have been ditched completely in favor of this wasted spark setup.

MS code is just an Extra MS1 code with 4 ignition outputs implemented.

unsure of EDIS rev limit, altho i do know you can always use a fuel cut type rev limiter which works reguardless.

Daniel.

 

[NZ_V8farmer]

would you ever be interested in making another pair of extrators to mimic yours for a tt converson im looking into doing?

 

[em_knaps]

At this point i would say no.

far too labour intensive.

but i would do things slightly different if i were to make a pair again,

more strut tower clearance would be on the list for sure.
also im not sure a reverse mount alternator and a very snug mounted PS pump
is everyones idea of fun.

If you do make them youself, use the CAD file on this website for your header flanges, the locally made ones are of poor design.

Daniel.

 

[NZ_V8farmer]

good to know thanks. reverse mount alternator will pror be a deffinate for me, the one ive got to figure and will be asking around about is how practicle is it to try keep air con as ill be doing alot of long drives.

 

[em_knaps]

for long drives, get a diesel corolla......

Ditch the air con, open a window man!

My whole concern with this build was pretty much exhaust flow,
everything got moved or removed to ensure nice flow and minimal restriction.

perhaps i could have done things easier, and perhaps torque figures would not have suffered. the idea is to get the exhaust gasses from the port to the turbine wheel unhindered, log manifolds were out of the question.

but yea, that's just me.

Daniel.

 

[fredio54]

Ditch the air con, open a window man!

Hey man, the desert road just melted, easier said than done ;-) lol. I'm with stupid on that one. Unless you are driving in mid afternoon central JAFA traffic in the middle of summer in a car that is painted black it's a non issue.

 

[em_knaps]

Time for an update,

Car is running.
loss of traction and JZA80 wheel hop is apparent.
standard non LSD diff is most annoying.

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=W-gQlGBEk0k

a few pics of some intercooler plumbing.
the RHS pipe from the turbo to the collector is the only thing i dont like.
the difference in length is considerable but unavoidable as engine bay is pretty much full.

I still may wrap the RH turbo cross pipe as it runs behind the bottm of the radiator, altho logged air inlet temps have not gone past 26deg C.

RHS wheelarch:



RHS behind headlight:



RHS turbo:



LHS wheelarch:



shows turbo outlet collector.

LHS behind headlight:



LHS turbo:



RHS turbo and feed pipe to manifold:



Average picture from the front:



Is sitting nicely on about 5psi boost after i changed the wastegate actuator feed from the inlet manifold (bad place for it) to the compressor housings on both turbo's. to raise boost i will feed a small amount of pressure into the top part of the actuator.

But for now 5psi will suffice. it was at 7psi and traction was a problem and it was difficult to ease into power, 1/3 throttle still had wheel spin.

I shall implement the MS boost control as it will raise boost in relation to throttle position.

Its all in bits again, need to make a dipstick and properly fasten PS lines and other bits and pieces.


Sticky tyres and an LSD is what i need next.....

 

[fredio54]

The difficulty in easing into it was probably mostly due to the bad wastegate plumbing (just like mine) fixing that rather than the 2psi difference will be what helped the most IMO.

If you get a chance you should move those gate feeds to the front of the throttle post intercooler as you are running your turbos unstressed and it will give much more consistent boost levels across the RPM range.

Lovely collector!

Fred.

 

[RedPhoenix]

So.. question. What did you use to wire up the Subaru coils and igniters? I picked up coils today... but forgot the igniter while I was at the yard.

Is there an advantage of this style?

 

[em_knaps]

Hey Red,

here is the wiring diagram i used to wire up my coils:



use the top left diagram

let me know if you find it hard to read and ill photoshop it for you and repost.

i guess theres no advantage over any other wasted spark setup
advantage over the standard dizzy of course is that you no longer rotors and caps to replace.....

also pays to get a matching pair of coils and ignitors, im not sure there is a difference between part numbers but i didnt want to risk it.


Had it on a rolling road the other weekend too, extracted 380 odd hp at the wheels on 7psi boost. here's the dyno sheet.:



i think the 1st run i did at 20deg advance broke traction on the roller due to my extreamly bald tyre,

the next run has low HP but a reliable torque reading. that was at 15deg timing.

im sure with a bit more fine turning i can get 400 at the wheels and close to 400ftlbs of torque also,
i am in the process of fitting tyres with actual tread on them so that should make a difference.

its all in bits again now, busy making a pair of drive shaft loops and figuring out some rear axle problems (wheelhop)

hard to get moving with the tripple plate clutch but once you are out of 1st gears its just brilliant.

 

[fredio54]

hard to get moving with the tripple plate clutch but once you are out of 1st gears its just brilliant.

A little birdy told me that you know the solution to this : redline, drop clutch, steer!

Don't tell me you are finally going to own a certified legal modified car??

 

[JustenGT8]

Your bald tyres will actually give you more grip on the dyno Run 50psi and all will be sweet. Hard to strap down tight on a dynojet so only so much power you will lay down before wheelspin anyways

 

[fredio54]

bald (usually) = old (always) = hard = no traction, plus, knowing him, bald = the non tread casing rubber and/or steel belts which is much harder and not at all grippy. bald as in shaved might help though

 

[JustenGT8]

Hard on dyno = good. Metal rollers are very different to road. Basically you want the hardest, treadless tyres you can find at the highest safe pressure they will run.

Bald down to belts is not so good

 

[em_knaps]

HAHA,

The tyre in question was bald with shadow tread.
very near to being a messy steel belt flapper though.

it was a situation bought on by one tyre having a slow leak so always had more traction that the other, subsequently the tyre with the correct pressure was the one to spin wildy. and of course this spinning was not always discouraged by the operator......

I have a full set of Bridgestone RE001's which should help with traction on the road and dyno. im also in the process of procuring a torsen type LSD...

Not so easy to find at a good price.

this should alsop help with the traction issue's
also on the list is some more ridgid front diff mounts.
The wheel hopp i am experiancing has been cured by a chap called andrew (4000GT) by stiffening this diff mount and replacing subframe mounts also with stiffer ones, and traction rods too, so i will follow his lead on this as the axle tramp is NASTY....

Daniel.

 

[em_knaps]

I think an update is in order here,



delicious TORSEN LSD.

man do these things work well.
i have traction in ALL gears
including 1st
although the engine doesn't load up that well in 1st.

this is on a warm day on sticky Tarseal of course. and in a straight line.





surge tank mounted but unfinished plumbing.
It is complete now but stinks the car out because of the non efi hoses i used on the low pressure side. will change them soon.



8 550 RX7 Series 5 injectors yet to be fitted..

now for some electrickery,

the T56 gearbox speed sensor is a VR type sensor which is fine but there are 17 teeth on the ring so that 17 signals per driveshaft revolution.
the toyota speedo is expecting 1.2 signals per rev so the speedo corrector
unit that i perchased from Jaycar did not have enough adjustment.

so i had to make a speedo corrector corrector......

as simple as a pair of CMOS 4017 counter/deviders in series intercepting the signal as it exits the main chip on the speedo corrector.



so far 50kph is resonably accurate and ive no reson to suspect it wont continue to be accurate past the 180kph mark on the JDM speedo.

the car is a hoot to drive but you need to give yourself allot of room as it accelerates well past most speed limits with ease.

its having its cert inspection this thursday and i am taking it to a local track day 2 sundays later so you can expect some vids..

like these buts with more light:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giD9_npdhKo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rag_o7Jc2q0

I am used to the tripple plate clutch now, and although it is a real pain in the arse from stand still the engine and box respond very well to it.

 

[em_knaps]

Track Day results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IjDhRHK4x8

Brakes are in need of attention,
and the odd oil leak otherwise it circled time and time again without issue.
although the surge tank was quite warm after10 laps or so. might need a cooler in the return line i think.
a little less lag would be nice, then i would not need to shift below 3rd gear.


so im on the hunt for a suitable brake upgrade using stock toyota parts.
seams LS400 might be the upgrade to do. TTJZA80 brakes are a bit pricey.

good fun.