Hydraulic Clutch Thrust bearing options

The  1UZFE EGR Delete Kit  is available for sale here.
ivan129

ivan129

BlownZX
Looking for some options for a hydraulic thrust bearing to fit a W58 gearbox adapted to a 1UZ?

Does any one have a list of bearings that will fit and suppliers they can be purchased from. Also will the bearing assy require modifications to fit the front of the box. Thanks
 
when i did my R154 swap i used a HOWE bearing, so far so good, some people say theres issues with the howe, so quartermaster is another option. but realistically you can make any bearing work as long as the ID of the bearing will fit over the OD of the trans input shaft, you will have to shim it properly anyway with whatever option you choose. good luck with your swap! try the 04+ LS1 hydraulic throw out, its cheap! and its LS1 durable.
 
The howe/quartermaster units works ok with r154 swaps, it's mostly a w series issue. So for this application I highly reccomend using the t56 bearing which requires you to cut the sleeve.
 
The Howe unit part number is 82870 and can be bought from Summit racing in the US. A replacement bearing is recommended, part number NSK 45TKD-07, as the Howe bearing has a flat face. To mount the Howe unit in the right place either additional shims are needed or make a solid spacer with only a couple of the shims. This unit works well with a 5/8 master cylinder. I'm using a heavy duty single plate clutch from a Celica 3SGTE.
 
Hi-jacking thread,
I am doing a Howe hydraulic release, and have a question. The instructions say to position in the 7'oclock position.

photo148d.jpg

Shot at 2012-09-12

The master is on the other side, I want to position like so
photo149z.jpg

Shot at 2012-09-12
Will it still work?
 
The unit you have pictured is slightly different to mine but the location of the hydraulic connections are the important bits. They should be up top, with the higher connection being to the master cylinder and the lower connection being the bleeder. The locator is only to stop the unit from spinning and its position shouldn't matter.
 
The unit I have can't really go in the 7'oclock position, the input shaft housing bolt hole at that position will only just make contact with the Howe location tab, so I'm going to have to mount it differently anyway.
Anyone one else used this type of Howe before?
 
photo164j.jpg

Shot at 2012-09-18

So where do I mount the bleeder?
Where do you guys normally put them?
Just on a bracket low down or something?
 
you can just run a braided line with a bleeder right next to your clutch master, so you can just bleed the fluid right back into the resivoir.
 
4U2QUIK said:
you can just run a braided line with a bleeder right next to your clutch master, so you can just bleed the fluid right back into the resivoir.
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense!
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I have never seen a hydraulic release set up before attempting this one.
Thanks for the direction.

hrforever said:
The unit you have pictured is slightly different to mine but the location of the hydraulic connections are the important bits. They should be up top, with the higher connection being to the master cylinder and the lower connection being the bleeder. The locator is only to stop the unit from spinning and its position shouldn't matter.
Click to expand...

The instructions don't say to point the hydraulic connections straight up?

Does it really matter which fitting into the bearing I use for the bleeder line?
ie top or bottom are they specific master and bleed, is that what your saying?

or is it just the best way to get rid of all air locks?
Ali
 
Assuming the clutch master is above, run the line into the highest connection point. The bleeder is connected below and either run back up to the master as suggested by 4U2QUICK or route it outside the bell housing to a lower point and bleeding will happen by gravity.
 
hrforever said:
Assuming the clutch master is above, run the line into the highest connection point. The bleeder is connected below and either run back up to the master as suggested by 4U2QUICK or route it outside the bell housing to a lower point and bleeding will happen by gravity.
Click to expand...

Because air rises you want the bleeder at the top, not the bottom.
 
hrforever said:
Non of the bolt will reach the tab. Weld a bit of rod to the head of the bolt that lines up so it makes contact.
Click to expand...

I went to shim the release bearing up just now, took the measurements and realized that there are not enough shims supplied, at that the location bolt will only just make contact, like 1-1.5mm of surface area contact....
So looks like I need to have a solid spacer machined up, and just like you said weld a piece of rod to a bolt for the locator,
 
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