has any1 tried the summit racing dual electric fan?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

jibby

New Member
Messages
857
Location
Santa Monica, Ca.
Hey guys I have my 1992 sc400 apart in my backyard for the dual electric fan swap, and other mods want to know if you guys know of the best way to bypass or disable the hydraulic oil driven fan pump, loop the two fan oil lines near the block or somehow disable the pump? I know this thread is older then old but I can't find any info on this pump stuff.....
 
Try the Zirgo 14 inch fans, they flow 2650 cubic ft/sec. : ) I believe the part number is ZF14S, and are $65.00 a piece on ebay.

Eric
 
Thanks Eric, already bought the flex-a-lite or some would say the flex-a-crap dual fans. Man I am having trouble finding out the best way to bypass or disable this hydraulic oil driven fan pump on my sc400, plug and disable or loop and disconnect the ecu sensor? It is holding up my progress. Anyway, thanks for the advise anyway...
 
Sure Peewee, because I had already bought the fan months ago and it has been laying around my house cluttering and collecting dust and figured I would try it. I was origianally hoping for a 10-20hp gain as it claims, make room for possible future air forced induction setup and lose a little front end weight by removing all the crap that goes with the stock fan. I am doing a bunch of other mods and have my car on stands for a while so I fugured now is the time to install this dual electric fan and see what happens. I am looking at the pump and those two oil lines as the stock fan is out now, and cannot decide to gut the hydraulic pump or loop the oil lines and try to disable the ecu and sensor read that activates the pump. Cannot get any info on this, searched the history of related threads, and nothing. I know others have done this, I just want to know what is the best way to go with this.....
 
Well, the 10-20hp gains are what you'd get on an old 70-80's chevy with a locked fan.
You'd be more like 1-2hp if not less going from the hydraulic setup to electric setup.

When it works, the hydraulic setup is by far the best setup you can ever get.
It seems almost pointless to disable it while it works, except for the mechanical knowledge you will gain from doing it. (and it tidies up the engine bay a bit too)
 
That hydraulic pump works hard off the pulley to push the oil to power the fan, I would have to think you would gain more then 1 or 2hp, no? I would think it would be like running the car with or without the A/C on, something like that... Are you absolutely sure of your claims. I do however realise the electric fan will never come close to performing like the stock fan, but as long as the car does not overheat or run hot I am ok with it for now. Plus I like to find these things out for myself as it seems very few have done this with and early model sc400 in the US.... Anyway thanks for the reply Peewee at least someone is reading my posts...Thanks
 
The hydraulic fan will drain more than 1-2hp when fully activated for sure, but the thermo's will also do the same. If you are running small thermo's, then yes, they'll probably be less parasitic than the hydraulic fan, but obviously they won't cool as good.

But you are right, you'll probably not need the massive power of the hydraulic fan. A 100+degF day with the aircon on sitting in traffic will determine if your thermo's are up to the task.

And lastly, the hydraulic fan is not always on full. Most of the time it just idles over to keep a bit of air going through the radiator and the auto tranny cooler. At this time the fan will draw very little power. It will only kick in full strength when idling stationary.

I've actually installed a little fan on my tranny cooler to keep it cool while idling at lights in Drive. Whether or not its needed I don't know, but i think it was worth doing.
 
So what does the stock hydraulic fan do when you are running at normal tempature and you race or go full throttle?

The dual fan I am installing draws 19.5 amps, and flows ar 2500cfm. Fan rpm @ 13.5vdc 2000. I think that will work on this little 4.0L motor, no? I also freed up alot of room, and also reduced front end weight maybe 10 to 15lbs is my guess with fluids, little radiator, lines, fan, fan motor, etc... I just want to know if I can disable the hydraulic pump with out gutting it. Do you know?
 
What do you think about the cooling ECU? I'd like to completely disconnect the pump and use the shorter belt instead. I'm actually not looking to gain any horsepower from this setup. All I want is to free some space for a forced induction system on my SC400.
 
When the pump is not activated does the pulley spin freely? How about disabling the sensor read to the ECU to signal the Hydraulic pump to activate or turn on.. Why not just make the pump get a dead read? Why gut them if it is not necessary? So many question and not so many answers... Diagrams don't tell the entire story....
 
The pump is always activated (as far as I know it always spins, even at idle).
The fan ecu controls the flow of oil in it.
Engine hot = valve way open, lots of flow, fan spins fast, pump draws lots of power.
Engine below set temp = valve almost closed, little flow, fan spins slow, pump draws very little power.
Engine between temps = valve between open/closed.

Basically the fan ecu only opens the valve enough to keep the motor cool.
But the pump is always going.

You can either gut the fan, and replace it with a normal bearing that doesn't need oil, or you can just take the outlet and plumb it back to the inlet, and fill the system with oil, and hope it all works out well.
 
Thank you all very much for your patience with all my posts yesterday, and I appreciate every response I got as I finally got the answers I have been looking for....Thank you, thank you, thank you.. You too Peewee very helpful..........
 
When looking at any modification I tend to ask "why didn't the manufacturer build it the way I'm looking at?"

In this case Toyota installed asystem that would have costs hundreds of dollars to make when it could have fitted acouple of thermo fans.

Why?

I think you wil find it has acceptable power drain and is dead reliable.
 
Zuffen said:
When looking at any modification I tend to ask "why didn't the manufacturer build it the way I'm looking at?"

In this case Toyota installed asystem that would have costs hundreds of dollars to make when it could have fitted acouple of thermo fans.

Why?

I think you wil find it has acceptable power drain and is dead reliable.
As far as I know, the Lexus GS300 for 2000 and later models use thermo fans, which I wish are in our SC400 or Soarer in your Australia, so that we don't have to modify the system. However, that's only a good idea for us whom want to modify the hydraulic fan. I think most other owners still prefer the hydraulic fans.
 


Top