flipping the intake manifold

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dar_sbb

Member
Messages
94
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hey guys

flipping the intake manifold, do the fuel rails also have to flip with the manifold?

I gave it a quick shot but the fuel regulator got in the way.
I do know that a longer accelerator cable, hoses etc for iac etc will be needed. Just wondering if the rails also have to be swapped.

Cheers
 
I flipped my manifold and also flipped the rails.

The Throttle Body hits the dampener.

I can't see any other way to do it.
 
The wiring for the tps and iscv need to be extended and shortened to fit.

You really need to swap the cam covers around as well to make the pcv and iscv work without long hoses running around the engine.

I also got rid of the throttle body hot water line whilst at it.

The diagnostic box can stay where it is and the purge solenoid can also stay.

Another option is to just swap the plenum, but it still interferes with the rails etc. and all the wiring and plumbing still needs sorting out.

I'm looking at swapping mine back around as I can't access the iscv without removing the plenum and it's playing up at the moment so I'll put it back to stock and run a new intake to the t/b.

It may well be easier to sort out a new intake system to the t/b then swap the manifold at the end of the day.
 
Cheers rod for all the info.

This is exactly what I'm tossing up atm. Running new intake isn't an issue. As mine is in a surf... The fuse box is in the way and the snorkel is on the passenger side. I think it will still be easier to relocate the fuse box and snorkel than swap the manifold.

If I decide to go trough with it I will detail it for future.
Cheers
 
I swapped mine today.

4 hours from start to finish.

A couple of points for anyone doing this.

The middle 4 studs on the plenum need swapping from one side to the other as the t/b side has longer centre studs than the other.

You will need to extend the AFM wiring and the t/b wiring.

You will probably need a magnetic probe to recover the nuts and bolts that invariably find their way under the manifold.

If I'd thought this through before I started I would have left it stock and worked out how to get it over the engine. I've now sorted out how to do it and will do it next week.

I discovered my ISCV was seized so I used a spare I have. I'll rebuild the seized on so I have a nice free turning one.

To test the ISCV I installed the spare and left the old one plugged in and ran the engine. No movement in the valve told me all wasn't well.

I'm knackered as my bonnet line is 1500mm off the ground so milk crates are the order of the day, as is sitting in the engine bay to work.

If you do it post up how it went as lots of guys with Luxes would find it useful.
 
Hey zuffen, fyi this is how my motor in a toyota surf has been for the last 8yrs



I'm gonna transfer snorkel air box etc to drivers side and relocate the fuse box.

Cheers
 
My inlet run is quite similar now but it turns 189degrees above the plenum then has to drop to cam cover height to enter the air box.

Seems to work OK. Certainly quietened down the intake howl.

At the moment my IAT sensor seems to be having a holiday so just another problem to overcome.
 


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