I will have to convert my 1GZ to a dry sump system to swap it into a MK3 supra. I have a plan for the pan but I am not sure how many stage pump to get. I am thinking that a 3 stage would work but a 4 stage would pull more vacuum. I have been having trouble finding any one local to me who has had much experience with dry sump systems. I was hoping that maby some one on hear would have some advice as to what size pump I should get.
Dry sumping the 1GZ
- Thread starter redrocco
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I drysumped my beemer V12 and you can check out my signature for the thread.
Suggest you talk with Bill Dailey of Dailey Engineering for one of his dry sump systems. Bill will recommend what you need, and build a custom pan for your engine with an integrated pump on it so you won't have a mess of SS braided hose everywhere. It'll be expensive, but having a Dailey dry sump system on your engine will add value to it.
Suggest you talk with Bill Dailey of Dailey Engineering for one of his dry sump systems. Bill will recommend what you need, and build a custom pan for your engine with an integrated pump on it so you won't have a mess of SS braided hose everywhere. It'll be expensive, but having a Dailey dry sump system on your engine will add value to it.
I have looked at his systems before and they are absolutely amazing but the price is just two high for me at this time. At between $4,000 and $6,000 I just can't afford to spend that much on a dry sump. I can get a very nice 3 to 5 stage pump for around $500 and a cleen butler built tank for less then $200. The rest of the system I can fabricate my self and have a good reliable system for about $1000.
I probably could but the factory 1GZ oil pump is mounted on the bottom of the block and sits in the front sump, so no mater what I have to remove the stock oil pump. Getting oil to the engine from a external pump is not a problem as the oil leaves the stock pump and runs out the side of the block to the oil filter and then back in. All I have to do is make a new flange for the side of the block to feed the oil into from the external pump. I had thought about just running a single stage high pressure external pump and making a new rear sump pan but the cost of the pump is almost the same as a 3 or 4 stage and the rear sump pan would probably be more fab work then a dry sump pan. So if the major cost and fab work is about the same then I might as well go dry sump and get the added benefits.
Just bought a used but nice 3 stage pump. It looks to be made by stock car products or weaver or race line. It can tricky to tell some of there pumps appart from just a few pictures. I would have loved to have the cash to spend on a new pump but a used one in good shape pulled from a running engine for only $275 is hard to pass up. I decided that 2 scavenge stages would be enough for my needs and would keep the pump from takeing up to much room and from pulling to much vacuum.
I got around to test fitting the dry sump pump on the 1GZ over the weekend. Its a 3 stage Razor pump and I mounted it in the old AC compressor location. I am planing on belt driving it off a second pulley on the water pump.
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" I am planing on belt driving it off a second pulley on the water pump."
Is that wise ? It will be "Gilmer`ed" to the water pump pulley but from there its serpentine down to the crank. An oil pump takes BIG power to turn when demand is needed.
I`m not sure thats a wise move here.
Pump looks good btw.Agree with you, a good used pump without damage is a good investment for reasonable money.
I have a few of the old touring car 20l BMW pumps around that were used. The guys would come racing and leave a lot of stuff behind as they moved on around the world.
You want to post a pic of the engine side on please ??
Is that wise ? It will be "Gilmer`ed" to the water pump pulley but from there its serpentine down to the crank. An oil pump takes BIG power to turn when demand is needed.
I`m not sure thats a wise move here.
Pump looks good btw.Agree with you, a good used pump without damage is a good investment for reasonable money.
I have a few of the old touring car 20l BMW pumps around that were used. The guys would come racing and leave a lot of stuff behind as they moved on around the world.
You want to post a pic of the engine side on please ??
I under stand what you guys are getting at and I agree that a drive off the crank would be better. I will explain the two options I came up with and see what you think would be better. After reading up on dry sump systems on line I figured that I would start off running the pump at 60% crank speed, I can always speed up or slow down the pump to get the pressure right.
Option 1
I can machine a 1 inch mandrel drive that bolts onto the crank next to the stock crank pulley. This would require a grade 12.9 metric bolt long enough to go through the mandrel and its integrated spacer and stock crank pulley and would replace the factory crank bolt. By the measurements I have taken the 1GZ is 4 inches longer then the 1UZ from crank end to crank bolt. I have 6.5 inches of space between the 1UZ crank bolt and the radiator in the supra so any addition to the front of the crank has to be 2 inches or less. I would also drill and set 2 dowel pins between the crank pulley and mandrel hub to keep them locked together. The gilmer pulleys would be 16 or 17 tooth on the crank and 28 tooth on the pump.
Option 2
Machine a 1 inch mandrel drive that bolts onto the stock water pump pulley. The water pump pulley is 5 inch and the crank pulley is 6 inch so the ratio is .8333 to 1. The gilmer pulley on the water pump would be 14 tooth to the pumps 28 tooth pully or .5 to 1 ratio. Crank RPM 1000 = water pump RPM 1200 = pump RPM of 600. I would be able to retain the stock crank bolt. The 1GZ uses a 8 rib serpentine belt and I have removed 2 idler pulleys, the AC compressor and the hydraulic fan pump. That should reduce the load on the serpentine belt and make the added pump load not as much a factor. Also being that the water pump to oil pump ratio is so low at .5:1 the pump load should be reasonable.
Option 1
I can machine a 1 inch mandrel drive that bolts onto the crank next to the stock crank pulley. This would require a grade 12.9 metric bolt long enough to go through the mandrel and its integrated spacer and stock crank pulley and would replace the factory crank bolt. By the measurements I have taken the 1GZ is 4 inches longer then the 1UZ from crank end to crank bolt. I have 6.5 inches of space between the 1UZ crank bolt and the radiator in the supra so any addition to the front of the crank has to be 2 inches or less. I would also drill and set 2 dowel pins between the crank pulley and mandrel hub to keep them locked together. The gilmer pulleys would be 16 or 17 tooth on the crank and 28 tooth on the pump.
Option 2
Machine a 1 inch mandrel drive that bolts onto the stock water pump pulley. The water pump pulley is 5 inch and the crank pulley is 6 inch so the ratio is .8333 to 1. The gilmer pulley on the water pump would be 14 tooth to the pumps 28 tooth pully or .5 to 1 ratio. Crank RPM 1000 = water pump RPM 1200 = pump RPM of 600. I would be able to retain the stock crank bolt. The 1GZ uses a 8 rib serpentine belt and I have removed 2 idler pulleys, the AC compressor and the hydraulic fan pump. That should reduce the load on the serpentine belt and make the added pump load not as much a factor. Also being that the water pump to oil pump ratio is so low at .5:1 the pump load should be reasonable.
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Speedy's_6
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JZA80 Supra V12 Conversion Kit Complete
*** Prices do not include GST. Taxes where applicable added at checkout. Backordered - Orders placed today estimated delivery Aug 2022 Sump, engine mount & oil pump conversion kit for the 1GZFE V12 engine to fit neatly into the JZA80 Supra engine bay. Kit requires some additional donor...
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