Cranck pully removal AARRRGGHH

[striker]

That Bolt is Tight as a...... well you get the point!

here's a quote I found on the forum, it's from peewee

Peewee: To get the crank bolt off, use a breaker bar (18" locked rachet) and brace it against the subframe or floor, then crank the motor.
Unplug the ignitors so the motor doesn't start.

Its by far the easiest way of doing it.

Ok and how would you do that with and engine that is on the stand?

I presume the thread on the bolt is a normal one, ie turning to the right ---> results in the bolt tightning up, and turning to the left <--- results in loosning up.

with a special lever made to secure the front pully (ie not turning the crank) and a heft leaverage from a 1.5 meter piece of alloy tube over the socket.... it still won't come loose.

hints or tips most welcome!

grtz Thomas

I don't have an air wrench nor do I want to use one on a crankshaft pully bolt cause if it breaks.....

 

[Zuffen]

Thomas,

I screwed two flex plate bolts into the crank, inserted a very solid screw driver (flat blade around 10mm in diam) and rotated the engine until they jammed on the engine stand.

I then used a 2' breaker bar and removed the bolt.

I tried another way but it didn't work and broke a a webbing strap designed to hold over 500kg!

Those bolts are damned tight.

 

[cjsupra90]

Yes they are, as Rod stated, use a couple of bolts in the back of the crank and a bar of sort wedged to the stand.

On a side note about the bolt, when reinstalling it, make sure to torque it as stated by Toyota. Very important. Toyota designs there cranks to have very little keyway engaugment to the pulley cause they feel that it weekens the crank there at the threaded hole to have the keyway recess in the same area and therefore due to the lack of keyway engaugement, they specify a very high torque rating. If you dont torque it enough, it will come lose and cause issues. There are numerous cases of sheared keyway keys in many different toyota engines cause the person didn't torque the bolt properly.... In the toyota dealer that I work at, I have seen atleast 3 dozen cases in the last year on different engines and 9 times out of 10, the crank is destroyed.

Just some food for thought.

 

[1uzvl]

Crap,better go torque up my crank bolt then.

I rember my bosses cressida had a issue with a balancer which then flogged out the end of the crank on the keyway,but managed to get it fixed.Sounds like the same problem.

 

[Lextreme II]

If the engine is on the stand. I suggest you make some friends and borrow a very strong 120 psi 1/2" or 3/4" air wrench. I have an engine on the stand right now and its very hard. However, those heavy duty air gun will work. Make sure you spray alot of WD-40 on it for about 15 minutes. It will take few shouts before the bolt come out.

 

[striker]

Guys

what exactly do you mean by the term "breaker bar"

I had a 22mm socket and handle on the bolt, with 2 inch dia 2 meter long alloy tube over the handle and it didn't cme loose,

maybe the airwrech afterall and do some tries with Impact instead of steady force..... did anyone ever had the bolt break off? I don't want that to happen.

this thing aint bolted down to spec that for sure I had (a calculated) 400nm on the bolt......

lets show this basterd who owns the garage.... grrmbbll

Grtz Thomas

 

[Lextreme II]

I think breaker bar means an extension. The problem with the engine on the stand when you turn the bolt the whole engine turn too. Since the motor turn, the bolt would not come off. Your other hand is not strong enough to hold the engine. Unless you have two breaker bars. One for the bolt and one for the crank otherwise it will be very difficulty. Impact gun is the key. Borrow a 3/4" air gune with some WD-40 and drink a beer while you wait for the WD to set in. Trust me, the bolt is not going to break.

 

[striker]

Hey David,

I have made a pully keeper for a 4age pully a few years back, and that thing also fits the 1uzfe pully, so I can lock the pully from turning and indeed have a breaker bar on the bolt via the socket. still no result

Indeed I'll have a beer and call Bauke(good friend) to bring his air wrench and compressor

Grtz Thomas

 

[cjsupra90]

on other thing that usually helps is to try to tighten the bolt ever-so-slightly, then try to remove it. Also taking a brass or aluminum block and putting it against the bolt and hitting it with a 5lb (2kg or so) mini sledge hammer will help to release the binding of the threads between the crank and the bolt and makes it easier to loosen.

 

[striker]

I win!

wit these tools, funny thing is that the crank pully puller I made for the 4age also fits the 1uzfe very well.

thanx for the bolt through flexplate tip. that solved the crank from moving, and after that a bash with a big hammer did the rest

grtz Thomas