Best way forward ?

[My1uz75]

Hey Blokes,

I finished putting together my Test Chassis today and am reasonably satisfied with the result (see photos). My plan is to run my motor in this so as to check my knowledge and also the motor. This is to minimise the time my daily drive is off the road when I actually do the Enigine swap. Following is the order in which I am thinking things will get done. If anyone can point out any deficiencies in my planing than corrections are most welcome.

1. Start wiring in ECU with original cut loom (including control panel)
2. Get Radiator, Battery and install
3. Get Fuel pump and install

I realise that is quite simplified but I am really just concerned that I am not doing the major things in the wrong order. Having never run a motor up out side of a vehicle I may be missing something obvious. What are ppl's thoughts?

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P.S. Excuse the welding as I am only a beginer lol.

 

[striker]

Now that's looking good! welding also btw!~

you might want to get purpose table to acompany that engine cradle, on which the ECU sits, I spend much time walking from the workbench to the testrig the first time I did it like this. later on I had one of those fancy old skool computer-rig-tables on wheels. which housed the battery and the fueltank and pump aswell.

I made a switchboard on which I could cut the fuelpump at once (big red dome type hazard switch) and that came in pretty handy at one time!
I also had a standalone rev counter and watertemp meter etc on it + the started button and everything elso to controll the engine.

best thing to get to understand the complete ecu system, is to get the factory workshop manual and resistance and voltage measure every sensor that's noted in there and look at the diagrams using a multimeter, that way you get pretty good understanding of how the toyota engineers put everything together, just start at page 1 of the EFI chapter, and work your way through.
that makes finding faults when testing much much easier. and makes you aware of faulty sensors and switches that may be allready on the engine. I did my very first toyota 4age t-vis engine that way and I've found a few faults that would be a nightmare to trace when everthing was eventually in the car.
the eventual swap was done (gearbox installed and all) in 5 hours including wiring up the engine loom to the "non toyota/non production" car.

Good going

Grtz Thomas

 

[Beato]

G,day mate, I live about 90mins north of Newy and am doing the same conversion. My 75 has been of the road for a couple of years but has been resprayed and basically rebuilt from the ground up. I have got the 1uz mounted in the vehicle using a dellow bellhousing, flywheel, clutch etc. I am at the stage of sorting the fuel system, connecting the radiator and power steering etc. I am getting an auto sparky to do my wiring and he wants me to have everything ready so he can test run the engine when he's finished.

My engine is different to yours, its from a Soarer with a rear sump and oil filter at the front.

When mounting the motor, I had to do a 2" body lift and space the gearbox up 40mm on the crossmember in order to get the A.C compressor to clear the chassis rail. Also by doing this gives the sump more clearence over the front driveshaft/uni, but I may still have to slightly modify the sump. The oil filter also fouls on the chassis, but shorter ones are available. Lastly I had to modify the firewall considerably to allow the engine to sit back far enough to mount to the gearbox. This wasn't a fun job, considering I had already painted the engine bay, but was easier than modifying the tunnel, shifter and tailshafts.
Anyway thats all I can think of at this stage, if you have any questions, just ask, Cheers Paul

 

[My1uz75]

Beato,

Thanks for the heads up much appreciated. I took a look at the photo's of your rig in the swaps/4x4 area, very nice I must say. I had planned on using the CRS bell housing and had been told by them that I shouldn't have to modify the firewall. They quoted somewhere around the $1700 mark for bell housing, slave cylinder, fork, and clutch all included. My initial thoughts before I contacted them were thats the wide 90 degree configuration may cause a few issues with the firewall and how far back the motor would be able to sit. I guess I'll be ringing them again with a few more questions.

What ECU will you be using? I will be using the Adaptronic, I picked it up today.

Cheers

Viv

 

[Beato]

Hey Viv, Yes pricing between CRS and Dellows is the same almost to the dollar. A bloke on here called Thommo got a CRS kit for his middy, and had trouble with the bellhousing that when bolted to the gearbox made the engine lay over to one side. As far as I know he sent it back and they rotated the castings and made him a new one. Just somthing to watch.
Thommo also had to modify his firewall with the CRS kit. Neither kit use an extension for the imput shaft so you would think the engine has to sit in the same position regardless.
Dellow weren't the best to deal with though, they took like 6-7 weeks when they said it would be 2.
If you have a front sump motor, you may have to have one made or buy one from CRS for $600!!
I got a full SC400 front cut which I saw running when I picked it up from the importers for $2095. For this reason I will be using the factory computer and the fact that the $$$ I have spent already is bordering on stupidity.
I just have to keep telling myself it will be awsome, hehe