About to put 1UZ-FE into LN130 Surf

[russell the woodbutcher]

Hi all I'm a newby here but have been looking at the forum for some time now and am about to install a 1uz into my surf I have already purchased the motor am now just doing a few bits and peices before i take the car of the road to install the 1uz Have already done the starter and will be putting new timing belt and water pump on before installing it my prob at the moment is i can find all the wiring diagrams on this forum however i can not find the pin outs for my ecu which is 89661-50241 34p 22p 16p 28p any help would be appreciated thank you!!

 

[Peewee]

You have a UCF20 ECU.
More commonly known as 1994-1997 Celsior.

So they are the diagrams you are chasing.

Just be warned that the US wiring may very well be different than the Japanese ones.

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

Thanks Peewee and just for anyone that would like to know I sorted out most of the wiring today and there were only about 4 wire's in the harness that varied from the wiring diagram for the 96 Celsior on this forum:veryhappy: Hopefully by next weekend I will have it all back together and fire it up on the shed floor before pulling the diesel motor out of the surf:fingersx:

 

[gloverman]

We have done a few 130s lately. We now make custom sumps to help with clearance onto the diff. Becoming a really common conversion over here in NZ. I make bolt in mounts which make the job easy. Cheers

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

Yes there are a good few getting around here now too just wondering if your engine mounts need a body lift or not and do they leave your gearbox in the original position also how much are they worth and also how much is the sump I do have a front sump motor but if the price is right it will save me stuffing around!!!
Thanks

 

[gloverman]

I don't know of any of these 130s which leave the gearbox in the same place. The motor would be about 20mm into the firewall. We have mounts for standard height or with 1 inch , 2inch or 3inch lifts. With a front sump and big body lift it is possible but the steering is close. Check out my winch truck thread to see one of our conversions (solid front suspension) but all the rest is very similar. PM me and we can discuss mounts Etc. Cheers

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

This is the info I have just received from another forum who has just finished this coversion himself so hopefully this will work!!

Quote:Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:40 pm Post subject: you'd better come and tell my Surf that.

Ok you need to use the V6 4runner handbrake lever and front cable then flatten the drivers side of the A/C evaporator bulge by around 30mm and trim the lower left hand bolts for the steering column plate flush with the captive nuts (you'll see where I mean) This keeps the trans in the original location and gives adequate firewall clearance. Gearbox only moves when doing the conversion from petrol engined Surfs and 4runners.

Mount the engine as low as you can which will mean a custom sump bowl (shaved 30 mm off mine and 15mm off the bottom of the dipstick) keeps all the pinion angles as per standard (no vibration).

Relocating the steering damper cannot be avoided no matter what you try and you'll have to carefully shave it's mounting eye off the drag link. I haven't seen the Marks kit for that yet

Maybe worth a try on your next one

 

[duza]

This is the info I have just received from another forum who has just finished this coversion himself so hopefully this will work!!

Quote:Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:40 pm Post subject: you'd better come and tell my Surf that.

Ok you need to use the V6 4runner handbrake lever and front cable then flatten the drivers side of the A/C evaporator bulge by around 30mm and trim the lower left hand bolts for the steering column plate flush with the captive nuts (you'll see where I mean) This keeps the trans in the original location and gives adequate firewall clearance. Gearbox only moves when doing the conversion from petrol engined Surfs and 4runners.

Mount the engine as low as you can which will mean a custom sump bowl (shaved 30 mm off mine and 15mm off the bottom of the dipstick) keeps all the pinion angles as per standard (no vibration).

Relocating the steering damper cannot be avoided no matter what you try and you'll have to carefully shave it's mounting eye off the drag link. I haven't seen the Marks kit for that yet

Maybe worth a try on your next one

I'd agree withh all of the above, except if you have a front sump. there is no need to modify it at all. Just fit the motor as low down as possible so the sump sits about 20mm above the drag link after you've cut off the mounting eye for the dampner and it will fit in like it was made to. The important thing is to get the motor as far back (5mm clearance from firewall to motor) as possible so you have max room for the cooling fan, whatever you decide to use, so if it means you need to spend a couple of hundred extra dollars getting the tailshafts modified, it will be worth it. Slightly modifying the gearbox tunnel hole is no big deal. The cooling department is more important. I spent a lot of time fitting a Celsior radiator into my Hilux and moving the radiator forward under the front shroud, so I could use AU Falcon Thermos. This extra time has meant no overheating, ever, but it did mean a body lift to fit the radiator. You may need a custom radiator if you want to keep the original height. Fitting a fan to the front of the radiator will not be good enough IMO when in soft sand or towing trailers etc.

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

Thanks Dazza so without a body lift I can still fit the front sump in without moding the sump with the Ifs frontend of the surf??? I do intend to keep the motor back as far as possible and if it means massarging the fire wall a little and changing the handbrake I will as this will give me more room up front as well as not having to mod tailshafts the other thing I was also thinking about but don't know if it is legal in Queensland was since I have 100 series coils in the rear and can't get the ifs up enough to make the car level was doing a body lift that say was 1.5"or 2" at the front and working back to nothing in the rear to level the body as well as assist with the engine conversion. What are people's thoughts on this???

 

[Peewee]

Talk to and engineer/mod plate person before you massage the firewall.

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

Talk to and engineer/mod plate person before you massage the firewall.

will do Peewee though was referring to (flatten the drivers side of the A/C evaporator bulge by around 30mm )

 

[Peewee]

So was I.

I'm assuming the evaporator is behind the firewall like most Toyota's ?

 

[duza]

I think doing a body lift to make your rear end look normal is the way to go and will give you a little more space under and around the motor for airflow to help keep it cool. I originally started with no bodylift and the motor fitted in fine. Only went for the lift when I wanted to fit the bigger radiator. At any rate, lifting the body will not change the gap between the crosslink and sump, as the engine mounts and suspension are independent from the body. It will give you more clearance between bonnet and motor, though.

In massaging the firewall, I used the oxy to heat the area to red hot, then beat it with a large mallet. I had someone inside the cab with a spray bottle of water to keep the back of the heater and the sound deadening material from catching fire, then it was just a matter of respraying the area later with white duco.

I can't imagine why an engineer would be concerned about a minor firewall mod like that, mine certainly wasn't, but they are a rare breed, so it may be best to check first.

 

[Peewee]

Ah, full chassis, I keep forgetting that.
I'm used to cars where the firewall plays an integral part in body rigidity.

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

I spoke to Chris Hollingsworth today who will be doing my mod plating and he has no probs with firewall mods or welding to chassis for mounts ect as long as it is all neat and tidy but he said no to grading a body lift from 1.5" in front to none in the rear

 

[mud-045]

hi russell let us all know how you go with all those small jobs and mods im about to do the same conversion in my 89 toyota hilux extra cab 2.8 D with IFS , i would like to use a heavy duty 5 or 6 speed box instead of using the lexus auto or the original hilux 5 speed , i also live in qld so i would like to here how the surf goes on the juice after the conversion

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

will do and as far as the box goes the r150 (i think) is strong enough another person i know of has finished his maual conversion he did spit the clutch the other day draging a hsv however the box is fine
fuel consumption from the reasearch i have done varies from 9.5l/100km up to about 12l/100km depending on driving conditions and style still the best way to go I beleive as to put a v6 commo in is $2500 just for adaptors and has bad fuel economy in the lux only getting about 18l/100km

 

[mud-045]

what have you worked out for your cooling system ? are you going to run the original hilux unit with twin thermo's or are you going for another type of core ? i have already got a Aussie Desert Cooler aluminium replacement unit that seems to hold an extra few litres and has whats called a tripple flow system which im hoping will keep the heat down when i do my lexus conversion but if anyone has had cooling probs please jump in and let me know how you over come them , cheers

 

[mud-045]

hi dazza have you got any pics of your finished lexus conversion ?? and what box are you running ? any on going probs with any thing or what would you change or do diff if you were to do the swap again ???

 

[russell the woodbutcher]

I will prob stick with the ln130 diesel raidator for now with thermo fans and see how it goes I have now got all the wiring sorted out as I got it started on my shed floor today was happy as hell to hear it start and still grinning from ear to ear lol