2uz-fe being made to run with the MKIV Supra?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
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cowboy bebop

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My goal is to have a forced induction motor capable of 4 digit HP. Read as over 1000 rwhp, so the iron block of the 2uz-fe looks to be as stout as I would need. After reading over and over again the threads in this VERY informative forum, I am left with a few questions.

...Can the 2uz harness plug directly into the AEM ECU?

...In educated opinions, how much HP can the 2 bolt mains handle with ARP studs, and what can be done to reinforce them besides the 4 bolt conversion?

...What forged pistons, and rods are available for the 2uz-fe without having to mod the crank?

...Can the 2uz-fe use the same flywheel as a 2jz-GTE?

...Are there aftermarket cams for the 2uz-fe as there are for the 1uz?

...Can the MKIV Supra valve springs, retainers, and valves be made to work witht the 2uz-fe?

My present 2jz-gte runs 25psi minimum on the street with a GT4788mm, can the 2uz-fe be made to handle that sort of manifold pressure with dual GT35Rs? I know that some of these answers are scattered across the forums, but it would be helpful to have them at one place. For those who are wondering, I'm perfectly serious in these questions, and have built the 2jz-gte as far as it will go.



Thanks guys,

Eric
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cowboy bebop said:
My goal is to have a forced induction motor capable of 4 digit HP. Read as over 1000 rwhp, so the iron block of the 2uz-fe looks to be as stout as I would need. After reading over and over again the threads in this VERY informative forum, I am left with a few questions.

...Can the 2uz harness plug directly into the AEM ECU?
NO... There are many Supra-Lex members in here have been playing around with SC400 harness and I have heard is about 90% similar. We dont have any data on 2UZFE harness. However, u can do something similar to my project.

cowboy bebop said:
...In educated opinions, how much HP can the 2 bolt mains handle with ARP studs, and what can be done to reinforce them besides the 4 bolt conversion??
I think the 2 11 mm bolts are ok and can handle about 500-700. However, you should consider using 11 mm ARP studs and if you want more HP, you should consider doing a 4 Stud main conversion or possible an engine girdle. I have the Autocad on the engine girdle but havent have the chance or the money to get it made yet.

cowboy bebop said:
......What forged pistons, and rods are available for the 2uz-fe without having to mod the crank???
NONE on the pistons. They are all custom made so there isnt any off the shelf pistons. You can get Pauter rods for about $1500 and they are forged. Very pricy i think but u can jump into our Group Purchase on the Chevy rod/pistons combo.

cowboy bebop said:
.........Can the 2uz-fe use the same flywheel as a 2jz-GTE????
I am not sure, but i dont think so....

cowboy bebop said:
...........Are there aftermarket cams for the 2uz-fe as there are for the 1uz?????
I dont think so... Australians are very behind on the 2uzfe and the 3uzfe.

cowboy bebop said:
........Can the MKIV Supra valve springs, retainers, and valves be made to work witht the 2uz-fe???
I havent try it yet on the 2uzfe heads, but i am 99.9% sure it would work because the buckets are interchangeable. Therefore the diameters are the same between the 1uzfe and 2uzfe valves springs. I have MKIV valve trains in my 1uzfe heads.


cowboy bebop said:
.My present 2jz-gte runs 25psi minimum on the street with a GT4788mm, can the 2uz-fe be made to handle that sort of manifold pressure with dual GT35Rs? I know that some of these answers are scattered across the forums, but it would be helpful to have them at one place. For those who are wondering, I'm perfectly serious in these questions, and have built the 2jz-gte as far as it will go.Thanks guys,

Dual GR35R is what i have been thinking. Twin GT30R would not get me to my HP goal. I dont think 25 psi manifold would be a problem. Best of luck and keep us updated. I hope my answers will give u some lights on this topic.
 

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Thanks VERY much for the great info. After reading on your project, I'd like to lean the way you're going also. The 2uz-fe bottom end with 1st gen 1uz-fe heads sound like the winner in this case, if nothing else for the availability of aftermarket cams.

Machining the crank for the 327 Chevy rods may be the more cost effective way to go, 500 dollars is hard to pass up. The pistons seem to be where the money is.

I already run the AEM EMS, so I'd be interested in seeing how it would work in this application.

Also, if I'd attempt this, it'd be natural to manufacture a custom tubular intake manifold. One the uses the Q45 TB that I have here, and enters through the front.

One more question, which harness did you use, the 1uz, or the 2uz?

Thanks man,

Eric
 
For a Supra I would recommend starting the a pre 1998 SC400 harness. Most of the later harnesses had the ECU in the engine bay which is not a good idea for the AEM. Honestly unless you really need the extra 0.7 liters, the pre 1998 SC400 is the motor you really want. The motor mounts and oil pan are a perfect drop-in the the Supra. I supose you can do a combination of parts if you want.

The first motor to go in my Supra is a 2UZ with 1UZ/sc400 oil pan, pick up tube, and motor mounts. Top end keeps the 2UZ heads for now and the intake is a 1998 1UZ manifold. Once I add forced induction, I'll go back to a 1UZ block (1992), stock rods, aftermarket pistons, 1998 1UZ heads, welded/reground cams and custom intake maniold. My HP goals are much lower, so I don't think I will need the extra displacement fo the 2UZ, and I want to shed as much weight as possible.
 
I thought about the 4L pre 1998, however, I'm not a big fan of aluminum bottom end for higher manifold pressures of 20psi and above.

Here's what I'm looking at.

4L has the 6 bolt mains which is great, and looks like it can handle the boost with the wider distance between the cylinder walls. Plus it's aluminum bock weighs less. However, I'm not a big fan of the distributor systems and would rather see coil packs.

4.7L has a strong iron block that looks to handle boost VERY well, however the 2 bolt mains are not as stout looking as the 6 bolt of the 1uz. The upgrades for the cams aren't there yet, but the 1uz heads fit fine. Still the coil packs would have to be retrofitted.

Also to retrofit the coil packs to the 1uz-fe heads, what modifications need to be made to the pre 1998 harness?

Eric
 
Eric, I'm a Supra owner also and am doing a project similar to Andrew's, however am planning to use the old style 1UZ motor and keep my A/T.

There have been several recent attempts to fit COP's to the early 1UZ motor, and those of us doing projects with that motor are watching the progress with great interest (search these forums for "COP"). As you may know, the later 1UZ motor (the VVTi model) came with coilpacks, so they "ought" to retrofit OK, and they're 4 wire style with integral igniters. We think this means that the AEM or any other standalone ought to be able to control dwell, and there won't be any need for HKS DLI boxes or similar. We also think the distributors can be eliminated, because there are cam sensors on each bank of the motor which already generate the G1 & G2 signals needed by the ECU for the TDC signal. And to answer your question about the pre-'98 harness, for the SC car, it's nearly a carbon copy of the 2JZ pinout, complete with the same connectors, so the AEM would be a natural choice, unless you're setting up a full racecar and don't mind the rewiring.

I've been working with one of the AEM engineers to configure a basic cal file from the Supra PnP application that will have the proper timing sequences for the 1UZ, and the proper configuration to use 4 coil outputs to drive a waste spark configuration. This is done now, and will probably be the initial configuration that Andrew & I will start with (along with any others who want a basic AEM configuration for the UZ)

All this should be able to transfer directly from the 1UZ to the 2UZ if that's your engine of choice. At the boost levels you want to run, it's probably a wise one, considering that's the platform HKS chose for their drag car a few years back.

No one knows the full potential of these UZ motors, and a few have already been grenaded (including the 2UZ), and I'm sure a few more will be in the future, but that's what it's all about isn't it?

This motor now (in the US anyway) is where the 2JZ was in the mid to late nineties - there's not much bolt-on, go fast stuff for it yet. We're all experimenters, hotrodders and fabricators here, and it's really an interesting time to be involved. The Aussies and Kiwi's have been hotrodding this motor a lot longer than we have, and have done some very innovative things with it.

John
 
One thing to note about the 1UZ is that it's got a pretty generous bore spacing. If we could find the right sleeve, we should be able to machine the block to fit them and allow more displacement with a stronger bottom end. I am still thinking about using a sleeve myself.

I really think the best option would be a 1UZ, either with new sleeves or using the stock sleeves. The engine was built pretty solid and this leads me to believe that it can handle a great deal of boost.

Speaking of bore spacing, the modular Ford engine owners are crying about that with their 4.6's. It seems Ford decided to make the displacement using stroke instead of bore, and they are stuck with an engine that cannot physically be bored much at all. Add a stroker kit and the rod/stroke ratio goes to crap. Boy I'm glad I found the 1UZ. :)
 
If you stick with 2UZ, just remember to upgrade the rods as well as pistons. The rods do look a bit weaker than the early 1UZ rods. I personally think the 1UZ will take 1500 hp easily with aftermarket rods, pistons, stud kit, etc. However, as long as the 2UZ mains hold up and you replace the moving parts with better ones you should have a bullet proof motor. Just remeber since you are using 1UZ heas, might s well find a SC400 1UZ so you get the right motor mounts and oil pan.
 
2 or 3uzfe rods are really skinny. Read this article on rods and u should understand why u should get stronger rods. This is the combo i am doing

* 2uzfe block
* 1uzfe heads (i have them already)
* 1uzfe (SC400) Oil pick and oil pan
* 4 bolt main conversion
* Chevy rods
* Custom Pistons
* ARP Studs
* Supra Oversize Valvestrain
*
 


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