1UZFE TRIKE

[Zuffen]

You need to be very sure of which engine you have.

Is it an SC400, Crown etc.

There are wiring diagrams on this site for the Soarer/SC400 plus pinout diagrams for the Crown.

The Sc400 diagrams are in the Technical section on the home page and the Crown one is on the (I think) Swap/modification page.

Have a good long cruise around the site, particularly the older postings. There is bucketloads of info. It will also save you having to watch TV for a couple of days

You are right about the traction control, I had forgotten all about it as I don't use it on my conversion. The ABS is all off the engine so the only abs component is the throttle cable and linkages.

 

[imamadmanru]

Thanks again and I have been cruising the site for a while and got most of the info printed off and am looking deeply at it.

I am 100% it is a soarer engine as it was out of a front cut of said car ( complete) There is a lot of gear intwined in the loom that goes to power steering and other sensors I am sure are not needed but am unsure if total disconnection/removal will throw the computer into gyro failure or not.

As you can see not much has been said about what reactions will occure if totally removed, will the computer go loocking for it and say too bad, keep running or go into fault mode ??????

Still looking for info

THE MAD MAN

 

[Zuffen]

Most of the signals sent to the computer by things like the airconditioner clutch is to make the computer increase the idle speed so it won't stall when they activate.

From what I know the engine will run quite satisfactorily without things like the aircon (I don't have it) & PS.

The power steering has a flow switch which interacts with the idle through changing airflow. You can remove the PS and the hoses from the plenum and simply join the two hoses or block them off. The PS won't affect the ECU.

Removing the TCS wiring won't faze the computer, but I have seen a thread on Toymods from "sideshow" that suggests the TCS ECU has a task in supplying speed sensing for the trans. Have a look on Toymods and search "1UZ" it is one of the first threads up.

KDog knows lots about the electronics side of the engine and has solved lots of problems for others.

 

[imamadmanru]

Hey Zuffen,

Drop me a line on [email protected] as I would like to catch up and have a chat WRT my project noting that you are working from Turramurra. I live on the central coast and pass there every day. It is so hard to explain what you need and what is what via text.

I am still a little confused with a few things about what I can and cant do. I have tried to contact KDOG and have had no reply as yet. I think his tiptronic change would be a great option for my trike.

Hope to catch up soon.

Keep up the crazy stuff

THE MAD MAN

 

[imamadmanru]

Lex / Zuffen,
Was sorting some things on the inlet plenum again and was wondering if the water supply that runs through the throttle body and the idle speed controller is detrimental or can it be disconnected ???? It looks as though it only pre heats the items as it flows from front to rear. If it can be disconected it would help me alot in the neatness of what I am doing !!!!

It all seems to be falling into place now that I have cut a few things and started to re-arrange the layout of the plenum. I am also trying to get the orriginal dash gauge cluster to fit in without looking to out of place. This will also make the wiring set up alot easier too !

If any one can help me out WRT the 1/4 inch water line through the idle speed controller and throttle body would be much appreciated.

I have also manufactured an adapter plate that goes from the 1UZ transmission to the Jag diff I am using so now it is just bend away with the frame and fit the extra bits in where I can.

Thanks again and keep up the crazy stuff !!

THE MAD MAN

 

[imamadmanru]

Please see attached pic of the current layout of what I call the
"EGO BOOSTER" The wife hates this name so I think it will stick!!

 

[Zuffen]

IMAMADMANRU,

I have to ask. Have you had a play ride yet?

Looks like it will be good.

Have you looked at reduing the rear track at all. I alway think trikes with car axles look too wide at the rear.

I had a thought on your alternator. Formula Ford race cars run their dry sump system off a the flywheel. What they do is machine a flange on the flywheel and run a belt trough two slots in the bellhousing.

If you look into you flex plate set-up you should find a spacer between the crank and the flexplate. It is around 8mm from memory. If you had a thin say (three row or small V belt) pulley made up to go in the place of the spacer you could cut two slots in the bellhousig ( and reinforce them) and run a small alternator of it. I know you would need to split the motor trans to change the belt, but how often do you change an alternator belt and how many miles a year would you ride?

Another option is use an hydraulic fan drive off (I think) a Soarer and remote mount the alternaor and adapt it to the fan drive. You could also mount the fan on it for you radiator. all thinking allowed.

Last option is to mount an alternator Jag XJS/Ferrari 365 style so it is in front of the engine facing backwards. You could mount it above the harmonic balancer so it would be hidden from view up under the steering head.

I assume your engine will be solidly mounted (almost a stressed member) so the alternator could be mounted on the frame.

I am having an SC400 delivered to home in the next week or so which means I should have the engine on the floor in a couple of weeks so it could be good to stand around it and say "what if" as you are only an hour away.

Give me a call when you get back from your trip.

 

[imamadmanru]

To ALL,

Have not yet had the engine started and the frame is still in the design stages as the engineer is visiting June 4 to sort some litle probs with design. My trip away has been postponed till 21 June so more time to clean things up and procrastonate some more.

I am thinking I may just leave the ALT on the front but run a some what smaller belt and maybe move it to the left of the engine near the oil filter so it does not look like it is stuck out in the middle of no where.

Most things are seeming to fall into place as I have chopped and changed a few things and they are appearing to be working. My Bro in-law is comming to help sort out the wiring issues and maybe get it to turn over( fingers crossed ) not intending to start it yet but just checking out the computer and harness.

Still at a standstill WRT the 1/4 water line though ??? I need some ideas on that one.

STAY CRAZY

THE MAD MAN

 

[Zuffen]

Mad man,

For all the mucking around to move the alternator to the left hand side (I did on my swap) I would leave it where it is. Changing sides will only have it sticking out on the opposite side of the engine.

If you ran the serpentine belt around the crank then under and around the tensioner then around the alternator it would work beatifully. If you place it on the left it will still work but you would have belt on both sides of the crank and could end up with insufficient drive off the crank.

 

[KDog]

Sorry for the late reply, have been very busy.
imam,
the first thing to do is to figure out which engine you have. I couldn't really tell from your pic. Do you have a higher res one??? I suspect its a SC400 or Crown Majesta, either way the ECU is the same. Where abouts is the sump? Is it placed in the middle, front or rear of the engine??? Looks like it may be the middle but its difficult to tell from the pic.
If it were my project then I would look at moving the Alt to the rear somehow. This way you can clear up the front of the engine. I would imagine this has been done many times before but I have no idea where you would look for info.

You can get rid of TC, ABS etc with no probs and the stepper motor for trac control can go as well as its TPS. You could even cut the extra length out of the throttle body if you wish. You can also disconnect the ISC if you want. You can compensate for not having this by adjusting the minimum opening of the throttle plate. Its at the back of the throttle body somewhere. You can remove the throttle body cooling lines as well to help clear up some of the mess. Remove the EGR valve as well if its there.
Whilst you have the engine out I would change the following; timing belt, water pump, and may as well do the front crank oil seal whilst you there. Easiest to do while its easy to get at. Normally you would do the idler and tensioner bearings as well but you won't need to if your not using them.
Let me know which engine you have and we can answer some more of your questions.
Cheers

 

[Lextreme II]

That is an awsome ride.... clean it up and fire it up.. u are set.. chick magnate...

 

[Zuffen]

Lex,

The man is married!

You're going to get him into trouble.

 

[imamadmanru]

Project GO AHEAD

To All,

Thanks for all the info in the past and I have just had a meeting with my engineer and he approves for the basic project design. That means it is all go from here with the building of the frame and the running of the engine for testing of it. I am very much looking forward to the first time it fires up and also for the maiden voyage out on the tar ( even a bit of circle work / full power trials ). I will keep you posted on the build and trials. A few little things to add though in the build.

Keeping it crazy !!!!!!!

THE MAD MAN

 

[imamadmanru]

I'm BACK

To all,

Sorry I have not been around to respond / reply to your PM's but I have been at sea off darwin for the last 2 months. The project has not gone far but is progressing slowly. The lower chassis / frame rail has been bent up on both sides and now awaits duplication and then the top tube work needs to be done. I have to do this before getting the 1UZ fired up as I know that when I get it fired up I will want to take it for a rap around the paddock and if the frame is not right I will only be depressed so you will all have to wait for the frame before you get the good oil on the performance. I am looking forward to that day very much though so stand by for more questions when it draws closer.

Stay crazy

THE MAD MAN

 

[cyberdiamond]

I thought you were someone else till I saw you were located in Queensland.

They have plans with the same motor in a trike.
I rode 2 of there other trikes, one was a worked 350 chev the other a turbocharged ecotec (3.8 EFI V6 Buick for the non Aussies).

Had a ball that day I will post a couple of pics later.

 

[imamadmanru]

Im not the only one

Sorry I am not who you thought I was ! I am sure I am no the only one doing these but I am one of the few who is running a lexus motor. I have friends who have a 5.7ltr LS1 from a monaro ( new model ) in one similar design but with a nissan GTR rear end. They have been to scared to open the throttle up past 1/2 for fear of flipping or not stopping. They have also put it up against a racing porshe on the track during testing and ate it up especially on the corners. They are hoping to get it on the road soon in limited production for export. I am hoping to have a ride soon to see how they feel. I can't wait !!!!!

 

[LEXUSV8NZ]

250 odd kw in a trike... crazy
Out handled a porche, hmmm

Logan

 

[Lextreme II]

Updates Please....

 

[imamadmanru]

Sorry

Lex,
Sorry for the lack of updates but work has got a little hecktick and with the H-D project nearing end I have been neglecting the 3 wheeler. I do however have managed to get the basic lower frame made and am working on the mounting of the engine ( the cross bar and mounts are going to prove difficult). The frame has flexed a bit increasing the rake of the front ens so that has been taken off and am in the process of reducing the angle to allow for the flex.

The hopefully rolling mockup to sit on will be at the Aussie get together at Panania rain hail or shine so you can get a feel of what it will be like. It will not be running though as the wiring is yet to be tackled. Hoping that by early 2005 it will be riding around for testing before tackling the legalities and testing for registration $$$$$$$.

Will try and keep you updated more often. also the BOSS HOSS motorcycle only has 1 gear and no designated top speed. I suppose it depends on how well you make the motor and how high you are game to rev it ( 350 chev = 5-5500rpm std) but the chev is a 80* vee not 90* like 1uz's. Still would be nice.

Stay crazy

THE MAD MAN

 

[deankdx]

2 months on, any further updates?