1UZ Soarer Single Turbo advice

[czar07]

Hey lads just registered to the forums a couple of days ago, and what a wealth of information i have found! awesome stuff

Anyway im from Perth, Australia and i have a 1991 Toyota Soarer V8 and i was planning to go single turbo with etuner's kit, but he stopped production on it. so i need some help with planning to single turbo my 1uz.

Power Goals:

My car is a street driven daily driver so i want something that responds quite well down low and mid range, but i dont need a lot of top end, so i will be satisfied with 450-500rwhp MAX. i want it to be reliable so i can drive it around 15000KM a year for at least 2 years.

Engine: its got 130000Kms on it. i would be getting it rebuilt, and chucking in a few forged goodies if i can. what do you guys recommend for reliable 500rwhp? pistons, rods? do i need cams and valve springs? do i need any porting done? anything else?

Computer: I will be definitely going stand alone. something cost effective and something that can be tuned in Perth. recommendations?

Turbo: what turbo? Cihan at etuner was using a gt35r and that would be good for 380rwkw apparently? which is all i really need? wastegate size? bov size?

Fuel: bigger injectors, what size would i need for my hp goal? what about fuel pumps and stuff?

cooling: obviously i will need an intercooler, and an alloy radiator. do i need water/meth injection?

anything else i have missed?

i might be getting a r154 or t56, if that doesnt work out ill keep the auto and shift kit it. and an LSD of course.

my plan is to go up in steps. like run 6-7psi on stock computer first, then drop in some injectors and stand alone and tune, etc.

anyone have any recommendations for shops in Perth/WA that can build a set of manifolds for me? i want to mount the turbo where the battery is. and any shops that can rebuild the engine?

also should i buy another engine and rebuild on the side or get mine rebuilt?

thanks!

 

[XR8tt]

Most turbo's from 60mm throught to 70mm .. Even more but your happy with 500 h.p..
Master Power T64 throught to T76
http://www.expressparts.com.au/master_power.asp

If you like to keep to Garrett turbo's yes the GT3540 is tuff to beat..
http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?pag...ategory_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
But I like the T04Z due to T04 housing and better CRA..
http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?pag...ategory_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
A cheaper option is the Borg warner S series..
http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?pag...ategory_id=33&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
They can be bought in the states from Mike turbo for about half the above price..

http://www.miketurboinc.com/

 

[czar07]

i would be looking at something Garret has to offer and probably get it from the US.

Any information about precision turbos? are they any good?

 

[JustenGT8]

Hmmm don't take offense, but all those questions? if you don't know the answers then you are way outta your depth trying to build a 500rwhp ride?

Have you driven anything near that hp?

If you don't have a fat wallet then forget it. If you do, then just take it to C-Red or similar and hand the your keys.

 

[czar07]

No offense taken Justen. I like to do all my research before I put money in. I'm asking the questions because I want to be a 100% on what parts to collect to run a turbo setup. I can put everything together myself except manifolds as i am quite handy with a spanner but can't weld. I reckon I could even tackle an engine rebuild myself if I had some sort of guide.

As for driving a quick car quickest I've driven is a Porsche cayenne turbo which is around 500hp.

Worst case scenario I buy everything I need and take the car into WTF Auto

 

[XR8tt]

Precision 6262 is another top option..
Lightweight billet wheel etc...
Much better priced than Garrett ...

 

[JustenGT8]

WTF auto is a good option. Tristen know's his shit and would save you doing things twice or 3 times along the way. It'll cost a heap more but be done a heap sooner and deliver a good result.

 

[cribbj]

WTF auto is a good option. Tristen know's his shit and would save you doing things twice or 3 times along the way. It'll cost a heap more but be done a heap sooner and deliver a good result.

And here I was thinking WTF Auto was a joke. Catchy name, though.

I think most of our garages over here should to have that in their names too, or perhaps in their slogans:

"We're so sure you'll be surprised with "Bubba's WTF Auto Repair and Bail Bonds" you'll be saying "WTF" whenever you drive your car!"

 

[JustenGT8]

They are a bit strange over 'west' John

A good shop though and the guy gets great results from seq turboing stuff....has a mad MR2 with a TT 1MZ that i really like.

 

[ash]

Precision 6262 is another top option..
Lightweight billet wheel etc...
Much better priced than Garrett ...

that turbine wheel will be alittle small for 242 cubes
if you stayed with precision, the 6265 or 6268 with a tighter turbine housing
have seen the 6265 twins make 1447 rwhp, soo the comp wheel is good enough, just think the 62mm turbine is too small.

 

[ash]

i would be looking at something Garret has to offer and probably get it from the US.

Any information about precision turbos? are they any good?

turbonetics and precision will be cheaper

 

[ash]

Most turbo's from 60mm throught to 70mm .. Even more but your happy with 500 h.p..
Master Power T64 throught to T76
http://www.expressparts.com.au/master_power.asp

If you like to keep to Garrett turbo's yes the GT3540 is tuff to beat..
http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?pag...ategory_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
But I like the T04Z due to T04 housing and better CRA..
http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?pag...ategory_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
A cheaper option is the Borg warner S series..
http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?pag...ategory_id=33&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
They can be bought in the states from Mike turbo for about half the above price..

http://www.miketurboinc.com/

with the garrett stuff, i find they all new MORE boost to make them produce the numbers.
if a lower reving engine/ rpm range is being used, the master power q trim will flog the to4z junk around the block several times...

 

[ash]

talking of which, has anyone used the new 64mm billet turbonetics comp wheel?

it makes more power than the 70mm
but the map is as wide as it is high..

the turbonetics billet wheels are the same price as cast wheels
around $800 USD, journal bearing , T4

 

[XR8tt]

that turbine wheel will be alittle small for 242 cubes
if you stayed with precision, the 6265 or 6268 with a tighter turbine housing
have seen the 6265 twins make 1447 rwhp, soo the comp wheel is good enough, just think the 62mm turbine is too small.

Yep fitted one to an XR6 t4 .84.. Agree a little small...
Really woke this engine up tho..
Yes 750 H.P on an Evo engine...

 

[Basel_520]

1UZ turbo

I am working on the same project. Difference is I have most of it planned out. Only problem is I dont have enough money. Ive bought a scrap engine for fabrication purposes. Im doing as much as I can myself (Have a TIG welding machine).

Engine management: I have a PRO128 from Professional EFI systems ( proefi.com).. Its a little pricey. Another option I considered is a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. Downside is you cant run true sequential injection or ignition. You have to go wasted spark and paired injection. Nothing wrong with that, wasted spark is still a great system and the V8 soarer uses paired injection from the factory anyway.

I strongly reccommend using direct fire coils. (Im using LS1 coils from a 2001 Camaro i believe) If you go with a haltech, 4 coils off a V6 GM Lumina will do. which is a V6 holden "i forget what its called" sedan on your end. good coils supra guys use them all the time with AEM V1 ecus.. (U can use an AEM V1 universal EMS.. good ecu, lots of support, cheap. but I prefer haltech.) since you're in australia you're best bet is a Haltech, Ive used them before, one of the best stanalones out there, im sure plenty of tuners work with them in australia.

You will need:
A map sensor
A wideband Ox sensor (with controller, gauge optional)
EGT is a good tuning tool (you will probably need 2...speak to whomever is tuning ur car)
IAT sensor (if you're ditching the MAF: RECOMMENDED)

but definetley speak to the person who is tuning your car about the required sensors and sensor placement. I have experience tuning supras locally and im tuning my own car but im still speaking to other tuners who are more experienced than myself about my setup and asking for advice. keep in mind the early 1UZ use 12 tooth crank trigger, the same as 2JZs, the only issue is with the cam sensors (use a signal from the distibutors)



Engine: Can't help you much, haven't tried blowing mine up yet. But im sticking with stock internals. im just going to go with an overhaul and boost it. I am also going to use a a thicker Multi layer steel headgasket to lower the compression (aiming for 8.5 but ill be happy with 9.0 to 9.3) ARP headstuds, and possibly main studs ( maybe unnecessary due to the whole 6bolt mains thing considering im sticking with stock rods and pistons, Im still thinking about that bit)...

I do want cams and springs but my budget is killing me..kelford make some nice cams. springs and retainers for sure. and +1mm valves
I am going to port (read polish) the ports a little.

Fuel: Im going with Injector Dynamics ID1000 injectors. these are 1100cc injectors. You dont need to go that big for 500 HP. 650cc injectors would be prefectly fine for 500hp.... 2 fuel pumps from a TT MKIV supra would be nice (and thats what Im doing--- or twin bosch 044 pumps outside the tank.. but that may require a fuel cooler, ive seen these babys overheat before...but you cant beat these pumps.) 1 supra fuel pump is good for 400ish at the wheels.

You will need to re-do fuel lines and return system to avoid possible flow problems. I did not like the look of the stock fuel setup on the soarer. I am however planning on sticking with the stock fuel rails. Just going to change out the fittings (definatley going to lose all the banjo fittings and use AN type fittings)...Aeromotive high flow fuel pressure regulator (Sard is good, in fact most high flow regulators will do but aeromotive is whats available locally)

Cooling: You do not NEED meth. and If youre the get out and drive without looking under the hood type I do not recommend Meth injection.
But if you do check your car alot meth is nice to have ever you ever want a little more boost.

I am trying to avoid ditching the Hydraulic fan as much as I can(electric fans suck. ask the supra guys). but its unavoidable with an alloy radiator. I will probably stick with the stock radiator and get a lower temp thermostat (still not sure what size i need but i will find out soon + electric fans on the front of the factory radiator)

a 3 inch intercooler would be good. Personally I would go with a 4inch intercooler... I havent found a good intercooler locally yet. but im looking for a good cheap one. I do have meth and im not scared to use it.

Turbo: My plan is a GT4276 from precision turbo. 76mm Ball bearing turbo, good for 1200ish at the crank. you sound like you may be interested in a 67mm GT4067, good turbo, alot of the 600 hp supra guys use it here its good for 700hps.

Borg warner makes some good turbos, and theyre cheaper, I may get one from them if I cant get enough cash for the precision, they spool a little quicker than the precisions but you lose a bit of top end flow. but great turbos overall. Borg warner S466 or S472. the 466 is good for 500ish, the 472 for 600ish i think.

Going with a single turbo definatley stick with T4 flanges. T3 if for twins, my plan was twins but the complexity of the system with the whole stock radiator and hydraulic fan thing made me change my mind.

tial 44mm wastegate, precision 46mm wastegate, both good wastegates, but im not sure how it would preform on a 4.0 V8... works great on 3.0L supras for GT42 and GT45 turbos. If i beat you to the build I will let you know. but if it boosts too high Im 100% sure a 60mm wastegate (tial or 62mm precision) will solve overboosting issues.

Tial Q blow off valve is good. Greddy Type R is good, HKS SSQV is good. mose BOVs are good in my book, just depends on the noise you want.

as for transmission. The R154 is a beast of a transmission, will hold plenty of power, clutches are on the cheap side for it, the ratios are not too bad but be careful if you get a differential out of a 6speed TT supra, the ratios will be way too long, It will be like driving a truck.

I am using a modified supra diff with a shorter ratio, the stock 3.2 (or 3.1, depends of the source of the diff) will be problematic (I believe it is a bolt on affair) A lsd diff out of a 5spd soarer will be fine.

you can use a R154 out of a 1JZ TT soarer + bellhousing for 1UZ for R154.

Cant help you with the T56 trans thing.

I am using a transmission out of a RB25 DET skyline. I will be welding the 1uz auto bellhousing to this transmission but Its not easy to get right, so dont copy me unless you know someone who can do it properly, otherwise you will spend alot of money replacing broken clutch discs.

I also have a MR2 3SGTE flywheel (lightweight flywheel) which I will modify to accept the nissan clutch and it should bolt to the 1UZ crank with minor modifications (increasing the radius the bolt holes are centred on)



I am mounting my turbo where the stock air filter sits, relocating the battery to the trunk and building a custom intake manifold to accept the intercooler piping from the battery side (seems easier to do the exhaust plumbing that way.

But the battery spot is also a good place to mount the turbo just watch out for heat round the fuse box area.

I am starting on the manifolds in a weeks time and will start a project thread in the forums soon.


Good luck with your project.
Basel

 

[XR8tt]

Borg Warner S366 is the T04 turbine. Little bro to the S466 which has T06 turbine..
Has flow capabilities from 500 to 830 HP. Air Werks by Borg Warner, S300SX3 turbo charger with 66mm compressor wheel inducer. "aka 91-79, S366, S300SX3-66, S366SX & S366-SX3" Available with a undivided or twin scroll (divided) turbine housing. This turbo utilizes the BorgWarner / AirWerks "S" generation compressor wheel with Extended Tip Technology for the ultimate in aerodynamics, low RPM spool-up & high horsepower output good for over 45 psi.

 

[JustenGT8]

Some interesting observations there Basel.

FYI i made 535rwhp on 440cc/min injectors (slightly raised base fuel pressure), so even 650cc/min is overkill. 1100's is simply ridiculous and just making getting a nice idle and throttle response a much harder task. You want to run the smallest injector you can get away with, they have efficiencies just like everything else.

if you're leaving the bottom end stock then ARP gear is pointless. You'll crack a ring land before you break any of the stock fastners. Same for the head studs really. The stock gaskets/head bolts will take 1 bar easy enough, which is the max you want to run (long term) on a stock bottom end.

In fact, if staying with the stock bottom end i wouldn't do anything bar bolt ons. there's no point opening the engine really unless you are going for a full rebuild.

WI is piss easy and makes a big difference on these engines in keeping them alive under boost, so i'd strongly advise it and just discipline yourself to fill the reservoir once a week.

Don't dick around with a butchered 3S flywheel. Flywheels are scary mass moving scary fast, just not worth messing with. Get the PCD done properly from a machined blank. Order a non drilled 3S if you are set on using a 3S flywheel? Heaps of options out there these days so no excuse for this madness.

No idea what you're on about with the diff ratio. Anything shorter than a 3.7 (eg 3.9:1) is pointless with the torque and response these things have...wild wheelspin from idle. I have run as tall as a 2.92 and it was awesome on the street...also cut a 1.7 60ft at the drags on my daily street tyres. I currently run a 3.54 as a track only diff and it's only budget that will ever force me to run shorter.

R154 will do OK. Get that thrust washer replaced and it might even be reliable

ps WTF would you ask the supra boys anything other than about hair products?

 

[BlackUZZ31]

the V8 soarer uses paired injection from the factory anyway.

Up until 08/1996 then went full sequential (before the vvt-i upgrade in 1998ish)

 

[ash]

Engine: Can't help you much, haven't tried blowing mine up yet. But im sticking with stock internals. im just going to go with an overhaul and boost it. I am also going to use a a thicker Multi layer steel headgasket to lower the compression (aiming for 8.5 but ill be happy with 9.0 to 9.3) ARP headstuds, and possibly main studs ( maybe unnecessary due to the whole 6bolt mains thing considering im sticking with stock rods and pistons, Im still thinking about that bit)...

hi,
over here we have supercharged 1uz engines, with PSI blowers making 50+ psi still running oem main caps / bolts

save your money on the main studs

 

[Basel_520]

Injector Dynamics 1100cc/min I use them on supras all the time they Idle like stock.

I try not to increase fuel pressure, for two reasons, it increases injection lag times and it takes its toll on fuel pumps.

I say 650cc in case you ever need more power. but more importantly because you want a some extra capacity for overboost, knock control, I always try to stay under 70-75% of injector capacity. with 650ccs its about 60% duty for 550 hp on a v8. with 440s ur nearing 90% duty (if not more crank vs wheel hp).. not good.

Im still thinking about the mainstuds. I didnt think I would need them. But im definatley going with headstuds.

Where can i get a undrilled flywheel that will work on a 1uz? Ive looked, maybe i havent looked hard enough.