1UZ into 1935 Ford Tudor Sedan Rat Rod

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

fieroX

New Member
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13
Location
Wichita KS USA
Hey guys Im new here, I am in the process of putting together a 35 Ford Tudor Sedan rat rod. I am wanting to do some pretty wicked things with the 1UZ. Not so much power, but making this thing more like a hot rod style engine. I plan on building a custom upper plenum and running 3 throttle bodies. I also plan on running zoomie headers, and making the engine look more like an old school hemi.

Anyway, I am using a 1995 complete drivetrain from an SC400 (automatic) and my main concern is programming the computer delete the mass air sensor. Can anything be piggybacked thats not too expensive? This is a total budget rod, and spending 2k for an AEM or similar is out of the picture. Let me know what can be done, I appreciate any help.

Ryan
 
Got any pictures? I'm building a 1926 chev pick up rat style.

If you know how to assemble electronics then check out the Megasquirt ECU's. They also have a GPIO board which can be use to control the gearbox. I'm using a megasquirt and gpio to control my engine and gearbox with 8 throttle bodies. But mine isn't running yet. I have built a few megasquirts for other engine though.

You could put together an engine and gearbox controller for around us$500.

www.msefi.com
www.msextra.com
www.diyautotune.com

Cheers
Daniel.
 
Why 3 TB's? To look like an old six-pack?

Further to what Daniel said, an alternative would be to dump the Toyota distributors, change the crank trigger wheel to a 36-1 and install a Ford EDIS8 ignition and a Megajolt Lite Jr. control box. There's your ignition finished, and the MJLJ box is dead simple to program. Total cost maybe $200-$250 tops. The nice thing about the crank trigger, etc. is that hardly anyone will know it's there because it's hidden behind the lower timing cover, so it won't take away from the old school look.

With the EDIS8, you could even pick up some shorty COP's like the Honda CBR's and run a coil on plug setup, and hide them under the "4 Cam 32 Valve" covers. Then you wouldn't have any distributors or spark plug leads showing at all. If you're chroming or polishing the top of the motor, hiding these wires could really make the whole top of the motor look very clean.

For fuel, maybe consider finding and putting a genuine six-pack on it? Or a pair of small 4bbl's, or would they look "too" new for the old school look?

Forgot to mention, there are standalone tranny controllers available that will let you shift manually (at the push of a button). In fact, I have one that I probably won't be using if you're interested.
 
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I've always thought for a rod a new set of cam covers to lok more like a Hemi would be cool.

Wouldn't be too hard to make up a cover to go over the cam covers, or replace it, to give it the fined "hemi look" with the plug wires going into the heads.

If you used John's suggestion of the EDIS you could make it quite convincing.
 
Ive thought about going with megasquirt. The thing is I dont really like the coil pack look, I really like the look of the distributor caps at the front of the cam cogs. With all the covers off, people would be like "wtf is that engine?". Thats kind of what im going for. Is there any other way to tune the stock computer without the maf?
 
oh and yes the 3tb's are to make it look like an old six pack. BTW if we were to build a plenum and make it carb'd, what would the computer do in response to having no control of the fuel? It would probably throw codes like none other.

Here is a picture of it
IMG_1142.jpg

We are suiciding the doors, and quite a few other things. I will keep everyone updated as it comes along.
 
At that point, you wouldn't need the computer anymore anyway. You've got the ignition covered with the EDIS8, and the fuel covered with the carby. The only thing left is getting the tranny to shift, and there are standalone controllers to do that. So ditch the EMS.

Only three wires to make the engine run, +12, Start, and an Earth (plus a bit of interconnecting wiring on the EDIS/MJLJ, but trust me, it's minimal.)

p.s. Have a look at the Supercharged Supra Project thread in my signature, about the last 2-3 posts I made are of my 1UZ on the engine dyno running the setup I'm describing. There's a video there too.
 
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I was told if you unplug the maf while its running the engine will die, then when you restart it, it will be running in backup mode (of the map). What else happens to the engine? Does the computer put it in a limp mode and take away power? I really dont care if it has codes, because its not going to even have gauges. Just a fuel level gauge. And I might just put that right on the tank.
 
Megasquirt can run the duel distributers if you use the MSextra firmware. My set up uses all the stock ignition setup.

You should be able to just disconect the injectors from the factory ecu, but you would still need all the sensors including the MAF. With what you are doing I would go with the megasquirt or other aftermarket ecu. the other benifit is you can remove a lot of wires from the engine loom which will make it neater as well.

In back up mode with the Maf disconected the ecu uses TPS as the load input as there is no MAP sensor.

Cheers

Daniel.
 
Daniel,

Your setup sounds like the route I will probably take on my project. Do you have any more info on which megasquirt unit you are using, and how the Msextra firmware works? I am unfamiliar with it. Any info you can provide would be fantastic. Thanks!
 
Hi fieroX
I'm using megasquirt 2 and V3 PCB with the MS2extra firmware and the new GPIO board for the trans. PM me an email address and I will see what I can put together for you, I have a CD full of info I have collected over the last 5 years.

You can start by reading
www.msextra.com go into the manuals and start reading. Msextra firmware is just a different firmware you download onto the ecu which gives you a lot more options than the standard code. Topics of note would be 2nd VR circuit, Duel dissy mode, Spark outputs, Pin usage.

I'm using the standard ignitors with the megasquirt.

The basic's for setting it up are 12 tooth crank wheel, 1 tooth cam wheel (Ignore the second cam trigger), duel dissy mode (either direct fire from MS or use factory ignitors), first tooth angle 5deg BTDC. You will need to add a air temp sensor and you can use the standard coolant temp sensor once calibrated. The rest should be pretty strait forward just follow the manuals.

The Trans control using the GPIO (
www.msgpio.com) is a bit more complicated and requires quite a few mods the basic GPIO.

Cheers

Daniel.
 


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