gloverman
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 3,140
- Location
- Hamilton. New Zealand
These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.
These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.
These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.
These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.
As for the alignment of the cam sissor gear it's hard to advise when I cant see it. I suspect you are trying to align the incorrect hole. Generally you need to insert the 6mm bolt then rotate the cams to their timing alignment position.
Engine Left and right is from the seated position of the vehicle or behind the engine. Toyota marks many of the parts L and R (like cam sensor brackets) so thats easy. Clockwise and counterclockwise is from the front of the engine. This is a clockwise rotating engine.
Drivers and passengers sides is for people who don't know left and right convention on engines. They should not write articles.
You assume wrong. As soon as the cam is removed the sizzor will spin. I always insert the 6mm bolt before disassembly. If you have it apart the you need to rotate the sizzor again to load up the spring.
Now you are catching on.
If you have a early gen 1 engine then the valves are not interference so you can rotate it safely without the belt on. If it's a gen 2 then putting the pistons at half bore and then rotate is fine but just be careful.
Gen 1 has billet fuel rails with flat machined top surface. Fuel pressure regulator in front of the throttle body.
Gen 2 have round cast fuel rails with fuel pressure regulator behind throttle body.
With the cam blanking plugs one should fit new ones and they still need a little sealant. Not everyone can go to the shelf like me and find some so reusing old ones with sealant.
Any chance of photos? Wouldn't it be best to wire the alternator as close to the manufactures recommend way? The only change I make if the vehicle doesnt have a factory sense wire (ie a boat) is to run that directly to the B terminal of the alternator. I only wire about 4-5 1uz alternators a month though.