1uz how to make a reliable 500rwkw?

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millsi

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ipswich
ok so it looks like i might soon have the $$ to build the 1uz and fit the turbo ect to my hilux.
my aim is to make a reliable 500rwkw on 98 octane but keeping the expenses to a minimum.
will be running a single gt42r with 1.06 rear.
for the engine i was thinking:
forged pistons, unsure on brand. would like cp's but $$. aiming for 9:1
rods, im guessing argo??
cometic hg's
arp head and main studs
heads/cams will remain stock at this stage
would like to keep revs to 7000rpm to aid in longevity and reliability.

will have the obligitory fmic and water inj as well.
im guessing between 25-30 psi will be needed with the stock heads to get this sort of power?

any input would be appriciated
 
well i am no expert but i would for sure get a set of cams. No way your going to hold power at 7k, get some breathable cams like kelford or Lextreme. Makes your HP a lot easier (and cheaper w/ your gt42r in the long run).
 
That would be 670 rwhp.. Hope you have a real tuff driveline!!
Tune is very important.. Fuel supply etc..
Twin 044 Bosch fuel pumps though a surge tank.
Or pumps that supply enough fuel for 1000 h.p n/a..
Atleast -8 fuel lines and atleast 85Lb injectors..
Good cooling system ..
Yes Kelford 207 t1 cam with decent springs and you'll possibly need to change buckets to shim under..
They are $22 each.. BUT remember there are 32 of them !!
 
The engine I'm building at the moment is aiming for 610fwhp.

It contains:
8.5:1 Ross pistons
ARGO rods
Kelford cams (not regrinds with their associated problems)
Heads ported within an millimetre of their death
ARP head and crank bolts/studs
Cometic H/Gs
Opcon twin screw supercharger with 8 rib drive
100mm FAST t/b
Water/meth injection
440cc RX7 injectors
Autronic engine management
Nitrided crank/balanced reciprocating assembly
big oil cooler
1 3/4" 4:1 headers
3" dual system

By the time it is assembled it will probably cost around $25,000.00.

There's over $7,000 in the heads alone.

What you're chasing is toward the top end of do-able but it won't come cheap.
 
Yeah i was shocked at having to spend $550 just to redo head gaskets... just the parts! the head studs alone run almost $400, thats the expense for FI, high Hp engine.
 
im guessing between 25-30 psi will be needed with the stock heads to get this sort of power?
So far i have seen the stock cams + heads, springs etc. reaching their limits at 14-17 psi (450-550 rwhp)...
So from the setup Zuffen is showing, better cams + heads will give (expect to give) you +/- 100 rwhp extra....no idea what boost levels that upgrade will allow you....
 
I'm looking at 610 Flywheel Horse Power.

I had Kelfords supply springs to match their cams but they became coil bound at full lift (a waste of a few hundred Dollars there!) so we swapped to what I understand are Ford XR6T springs.

My expected power figures are on 15psi but I could potentially boost it to 28psi with the supercharger I have.

If it looks happy at 15 we may try 20 and see what we get.
 
I think you'll do it easy ..Esp with decent cams and ported heads..
Sheesh I have bucket loads of XR6T springs..
Strange we use the XR8 Springs on the 6t as a cheap upgrade...Lol..
A have asked a few dyno guys and they say cams realy wake this engine up n/a . So I assume with forced induction and head work you'll do it easy... Ha buying 2 Echo heads is going to be cheaper than buying the buckets on there own!!!
 
fuel and injection is already taken care(044s and surge tank + ems) as is cooling (pwr rad).
cams wont be happening straight away just springs.
 
Fuel rails will have to be replaced with billet rail approx $60 a meter..
Then some weld on or threaded Earles or Speedflow fittings..
T04Z or GT4202 turbo or similar size, 4" dump pipe..
High rpm the buckets require changing...
 
Yea IMO this power figure is pushing the boundaries and small rails leads to hammering between injectors at high demand levels..
Besides making alloy fuel rails is not that hard, the billet rails have approx 16 mm to drill for injectors.. Only have to drill them at correct distance apart.. I use a drill slightly under size and hone out for fine finish for good O ring seal...
 
You can rifle drill the rails.

A millimetre or two will make an enormous difference in the flow capacity of the standard rails and has the advantage of bolting straight on and no one would know what you've done.
 


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