1991 hiace 1uz conversion

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

prkyv8

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46
Location
wellington new zealand
hey there im halfway through my conversion bit stuck on sourcing a fuel tank and also sorting of all the pipes like vacums and stuff like that any diagram of hoses would be awsome or if anyone can help identifying my motor and year?

im running the standard 1uz auto box and stock hiace diff till i can get hold of a lsd 3.9 ratio

cant wait to get going have a nice short exhaust coming out in front of rear wheels with a balancing pipe for equal sound out either side exhaust is just over 1m long hopefully has a nice rumble with custom headers

originally the motor was a front sump but we got a custom rear sump made up only problem is it sits very low to ground lower than cross member so not looking forward to speed bumps

if i can help anyone with pics just ask i have got more or can take some

if anyones got diagrams of anything thatd b awsome cheers
 

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Nice job! Rear sump I take it? Ull find you can bung up alot of vacuum lines as they wont be needed but you will need the larger one on the rear of the manifold for your brake booster and one of the front ones for your fuel regulator. I used one for a map sensor and think that's about it really?
 
mean!! i not long finished mine, failed cert as had no driveshaft safety loop damm it!! youll love it they are so awesome to drive lol, i bunged all mine up as teedo said but i used factory ecu so had to plumb that big hose off the front of the plenum back into the intake pipe you will have under the drivers seat. but if you using a link ecu etc etc... you can take that valve off the front of plenum and biff it an plate over the hole.
 
swt as yeah its a custom rear sump have a look in pic and sht i 4got allbowt that safety loop which end of the driveshaft does it have to go? wont take long to make one atleast cant wait to hear running and take 4 a spin
 

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awesome man! Im making a loop for my one this week aswell, from what I'm told it should be the side closer to the engine. Reason being if it were to snap at the front it would fall, dig into the road and flip ya. Well that's what I'm told at least, makes sense so going with it haha.
 
yea makes sense i rekon the same they tryd it on mythbusters and it wasnt possible to actually flip the car just to let u no but um what big pipe where you talking about using for the brake booster as ther are 2 big hoses above bell housing end
 
loop has to be within 150mm of front universil made out of 150x5mm round with two tabs going to the floor then two 10mm diameter thread bolts going through the floor with a 50x60x5mm plate ill dig some photos out and post them over the weekend for ya's....

cheers
Adam
 
just spoke to cert guy he said hes never seen anything other than round but he said there is nothing saying that you cant have it any other shape so square is fine and the steel has to be 50mm x6mm or they will let u get away with 5mm and its at gearbox end 150mm from centre of yoke to stop driveshaft going through your floor if it snaps
 
cert guy says 6mm for hoop and needs plates inside the vehicle to spread the load also and hi tensile 10 mm bolts etc.
are you guys doin brake upgrades also?
 
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what do you guys reckon will be better welding a plate acros chasie and having a loop that unbolts from that or shifting handbrake lines and linkages and welding plates on the inside of ace and having the bolts go through the floor just like the ones you can buy?
 
On vans we bolt the driveshaft hoops to the chassis side of the gearbox mount. No need to drill holes through the floor. Even the super custom extra long we did the rear hoop didnt need to be drilled through the floor. Cheers
 
a pic of what you mean would be good i have just had a look and there is 2 holes on side of chassie where gearbox mount is but they are only 5mm holes with nuts which for a cert you need 4x 1cm thick bolts so how do i get round bolting it to the chassie?
 


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