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Got my car started right up after changing the timing belt with a new one.

crank sensor tests out and is clean. Tried the above method with no results. the only things that didnt match up on the conversion were the knock sensor connectors. 'old harness is square and new sensor is round'--but it still connected well and was snug. Plus I have no cel codes yet. This is crazy

yes. shortest cut is longest. I didnt mess with the timing belt but can the crank sensor cause the problem of not starting? I know the cam sensors are plugged in. It has every component of starting.. fuel spark air. Im going to check it now. the new injectors are 3250-50020.. my original...

I checked all wires and plugs and they fire just great. I just wonder if because I am using the new engines fuel injectors that with the old wire harness they arent working? Idk.

My last post I talked about changing rod bearings. Decided to drop a new longblock in and save the hassles. I bought a 1992 SC400 longblock with 50,000 miles. Finalized everything today and try to start. It turns and acts like its starting.. but wont fire up. When i attempt to start there is...

Tempeheat, I always appreciate your input on this forum. Thanks for showing everyone where you stand. You are just soo humorously sarcastic, hah.....hah, I hope you dont think your mature.

Put the new rod bearings in and fit was great. Engine sounds perfect and my oil psi is back to normal.

Got those bearings in and sounds great again! Anyway without any indication from the rpm guages- obviously.. the car idles perfect and revs just fine in park and neutral. Why do you ask?

1990 LS400. RPM guage doesnt work (stays below 0- <2000 range when driving). Cannot push accelerator hard or else major shuttering and no acceleration occurs. Recently changed No.2 speed sensor as it was throwing code and showing these symptoms. After replacing the sensor there are no CEL or...

I see this, however my crank is in perfect condition where the big ends attach and the rods measure the same. So why is it that I will still need to remachine the crank?

The advice on this website is invaluable! What would I do without your intelligence!? Like buy shitty engines and throw cars in rivers.. I will entertain considering both of these wonderfully perfect ideas. Thanks

Removed the entire oil pan with out removal of the engine! Inspected engine bearings and found my problem. Prior I checked the oil psi and it was below 20-- idling around 11psi. Checked oil pump and it looked brand spankin new. Turns out the 5th and 6th rod bearings are destroyed! about only a...

Took the lex to a professional mechanic.. listened to the knock with stethoscope and his opinion was to do with the rod bearings, or main bearings I cant remember b/c my engine will eventually squeak after running, also maybe something with oil pump which was causing low psi and starving oil in...

Quick question: When I am removing the journal bolts that hold the camshaft in place, can I remove the journals one at a time without removing the timing belt from the camshaft? I am attempting to remove the bolts one journal at a time to keep the cam in place while the timing belt is still on...

Sideshow might be onto something b/c I removed the left valve cover to check the very front journal and it had a couplbe small metal shavings and definite grind wear marks but It was like this since I was driving the car and have had no problems with it. I dont think this could be causing my...

If my engine is knocking every revolution of the engine and starts to overheat slowly while idling then I am thinking this may be caused by a rod either going out or already out. However the sound resonates from the top air intake manifold. If this were actually a valve and not a rod then how do...

Also I forgot that after the engine is running it overheats extremely on the temp guage.

Update: Good news: My engine starts and continues to run like normally. Bad news: There is a loud knock and squeak whereas seems to be coming from inside of my upper intake chamber! I wasnt sure there were any major parts inside the upper unit??? Does anyone know what this symptom is?

Timing belt is fine.. the squeaking is coming from the driver side camshaft distributor area. I took off the valve cover and inspected the shaft and it showed no sign of wear or metal contact. Here is the symptom.. I can get the engine to turn and even start at times however there is a point of...