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well my lexus range rover was running a wee bit hot,so given here a big oil cooler and replaced the shagged radiator with an extra deep much bigger one..all now sorted.. it runs twin large elecy fans,no engine driven one..the rad temp switch is in the top hose (feed from engine) now what temp...

why would you want to? thers no point on a stock motor,it dont need more fuel...:confused: and as far as i know there is no way the stock ecu on its own will ever run anything other than standard injectors..i dont think it will learn, espically in warm up/on power etc when runing open loop and...

yep i agree.. note if you decide to fit an oil gauger the rover bl etc style ones are no good as they top out at 60psi, seen over 80 on mine.. tim gauges though cheap are very similar in style so look ok..

yes very similar,reads a fraction lower with the stock lexus sender matched to stock old school rover gauge.

sounds good...

he he..where you going???bring cold weather clothes...its the "summer" you know:p

time to sort out the sump properly..i need to make a middy reary sump..ie inbetween mid and rear..i have a tempery modded front .. now am gonna cut out a flange from 8mm steel and i think braze a sump to that.making the sump should be problem free just time cosuming.. however not seen a rear...

yes i agree..and the breakers yards that do have them will only sell the complete loom...last time i found one they wanted £200!(abit steep for one plug..) hense the soldering..though i solder to another plug/socket combo.so its still unplugable. i also agree its a bit back yard,but if done...

the first bit...getting plugs over here is not so easy...did i try!!

not kidding,mine now clicks for everything!..and only 3 fuses!!..oh the joys of lucas looms..

blimey can no one solder!!!:p i have no issue with it at all,one can solder hard (but f***ing thin)wires directly to sm cpu's if good enough.. still getting the plug would be best...and neatest.

go unipart, get there catalogue for idlers and have a look, my local keeps them all in stock. thats where i got mine... catalogue shows pics with dimensions..

then may i suggest learning to solder properly..there is no problem at all,with a decent weller station and years of practise(35+ years ,its my job.)

here you go.. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

oh...you will need to find the missing plug for your ecu..it will be still in the donar car..or you can hard wire to the ecu pins..(good test of your soldering)

all the diagrams are on this site...from them you should be able to sus it.. also on this site are 2 basic wiring diagrams to get it running..they are all you need,but i would just use them to get the idea of what to do as they dont have fuel pump on "spark sensing relay" etc..ie abit dodgy if...

if you want something doing properly..then do it yourself... what a git..glad you found it!

an idea...maybe be a bad idea,maybe be good..(ie if it works) steam clean the engine..(may not be nessary)add some uv dye to the oil(like the stuff ac people use to find leaks), run the engine but dont get it to hot (ie so it dont kill the dye).. check for leak using uv lamp(ala ac boys)maybe...

thanks for advice.. "one thing u migh tbe able to try is if enigne is cold and u start it and it idles hi quickly unplug idle motor whiel it is idling hi this should in theory leave idle motor wound out for cold start and therefore have hi idle leave it unplugged and see if idle still plays...

hi.. have irractic idle..usualyy drive around town nice and easy, when doing this idle drops to 450-500rpm,its steady but too low.. if i gun it around idle goes up to 650-750. sometimes it will go up to 1100, then turning off and restarting (after 30 secs to allow ecu to power down)it will be...